A Guide to .22LR Barrel Care for the Precision Rimfire Shooter

[Big Bad]

In the recent thread enquiring about best ammo, CGNer Horseman2 referred to a site that has the following very excellent article about the care and cleaning of .22 LR barrels. It is as the author states one man's opinion but it matches my own hard earned experience-based opinions so closely that I have to consider it to be the best thing I've read on the subject, period. I did try to post the whole text but this site has imposed a new limit on the amount of words that can be posted and this guy's article goes way over that, so I can only provide the link. And here it is!


https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/a-guide-to-22lr-barrel-care-for-the-precision-rimfire-shooter/

 

[grauhanen]

Thanks for providing the link to this article by Gregory J. Roman. There's a fair bit of good information in this article.

While there are many ways to clean a bore, the most important point in the Roman article is the idea of regularly cleaning a .22LR barrel, with the author saying he cleans his at 200 to 400 round intervals. Another significant point he makes is the importance of removing the accuracy-robbing carbon rings. (I prefer preventing their development.) He also points to the importance about using the proper tools and equipment for safe and effective cleaning.

In short, Roman says to clean regularly, get rid of the carbon ring, and use the proper tools (which is important to protect the rifle). All of these are very good ideas.

Nevertheless, some words of caution are needed about some things in the article.

Roman says that "at least" 1000 rounds are required to season a bore from the breech end to the muzzle. This is an exaggeration. No other published sources, recognized "authorities," or experienced posters make such a claim. Many serious shooters used to follow the old rule-of-thumb that a round per inch of barrel was required to appropriately season a bore. Of course some bores may require more rounds, some fewer.

Furthermore, and more relevant to everyday shooters, Roman claims that following the methods described in the article "produces extremely low ES and SD numbers over the chronograph which translates to extremely consistent and predictable ballistics at long range."

While his target results are not in doubt, it's very important to say that it's the ammo itself more than any cleaning methods that determines ammo ES and SD. In other words, how a bore is cleaned won't determine how the ammo performs over the chronograph. The quality of the ammo is key. Neither the rifle nor the cleaning method will turn inconsistent ammo into something else.

 

[Big Bad]

Thanks for providing the link to this article by Gregory J. Roman. There's a fair bit of good information in this article.

While there are many ways to clean a bore, the most important point in the Roman article is the idea of regularly cleaning a .22LR barrel, with the author saying he cleans his at 200 to 400 round intervals. Another significant point he makes is the importance of removing the accuracy-robbing carbon rings. (I prefer preventing their development.) He also points to the importance about using the proper tools and equipment for safe and effective cleaning.

In short, Roman says to clean regularly, get rid of the carbon ring, and use the proper tools (which is important to protect the rifle). All of these are very good ideas.

Nevertheless, some words of caution are needed about some things in the article.

Roman says that "at least" 1000 rounds are required to season a bore from the breech end to the muzzle. This is an exaggeration. No other published sources, recognized "authorities," or experienced posters make such a claim. Many serious shooters used to follow the old rule-of-thumb that a round per inch of barrel was required to appropriately season a bore. Of course some bores may require more rounds, some fewer.

Furthermore, and more relevant to everyday shooters, Roman claims that following the methods described in the article "produces extremely low ES and SD numbers over the chronograph which translates to extremely consistent and predictable ballistics at long range."

While his good results are not in doubt, it's very important to say that it's the ammo itself more than any cleaning methods that determines ammo ES and SD. In other words, how a bore is cleaned won't determine how the ammo performs over the chronograph. The quality of the ammo is key. Neither the rifle nor the cleaning method will turn inconsistent ammo into something else.

One needs to take particular note not only of HOW he cleans but also what he cleans FOR. Most importantly, he also says that the wrong kind of cleaning will undo all of the breaking in of the barrel that has gone before.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

I recently watched a video where a shooter with a bore scope showed how a carbon ring forms and how he removes it with a 5 minute soak of the chamber with some nitro solvent. I did the procedure myself, cleaning only the chamber, and found that just like a full cleaning, it took 5 shots for my point of impact to return to normal. I didn't run a wet patch down the full length of the bore. When all was done, I just pulled a bore snake through the barrel. This suggests to me, that the source of the point of impact altering change area is either the chamber or very close. Either that, or just a bore snake altered the rest of the bore enough to produce that change. I guess the only way to test this theory is to bore snake it alone, at the range, then resume firing, and see if that changes the point of impact significantly.

 

[Big Bad]

I'm about to start slow and undertake the chamber operation with a Q tip, using some almighty powerful Otis solvent that seems to have been taken off the market now.

 

[Mystic Precision]

After cleaning as desired, chart ON PAPER, how many rds it takes to get back your POI and accuracy. 5 to 10 rds would be typical... if you need more, I feel you are cleaning too much.

Given the ammo I use, I am looking at fouling to muck up the action and how it operates... I clean this well.

The bore, definitely pay attention to the throat BUT a qtip might be all that is necessary to get rid of the carbon ring.

wrt to the bore, I clean as little as needed and will foul with 10rds into the dirt... I find that I really don't want to take the bore back to metal

But your testing will indicate what is best for your rifle/ammo combo.

Jerry

 

[adamg]

I recently watched a video where a shooter with a bore scope showed how a carbon ring forms and how he removes it with a 5 minute soak of the chamber with some nitro solvent. I did the procedure myself, cleaning only the chamber, and found that just like a full cleaning, it took 5 shots for my point of impact to return to normal. I didn't run a wet patch down the full length of the bore. When all was done, I just pulled a bore snake through the barrel. This suggests to me, that the source of the point of impact altering change area is either the chamber or very close. Either that, or just a bore snake altered the rest of the bore enough to produce that change. I guess the only way to test this theory is to bore snake it alone, at the range, then resume firing, and see if that changes the point of impact significantly.

Can you post the video link?

I read this article last month and have been toying with the info in it. Including scoping a couple of my own barrels, and trying to get the carbon ring out.

IME, normal bore cleaning products simply won't get rid of the carbon ring. By that I mean things like Hoppes and BLACK GUN CARE, plus brake cleaner. I've tried them on a wet patch on a jag, pulled through, and left to sit at that spot for hours. They simply don't touch the carbon ring. After very few patches they come out pristine white, indicating they have stopped doing anything - confirmed by the bore scope.

So far the only thing I've found that shows a noticeable impact is a metal bore brush, with dozens (I get worn out before 100 stroke cycles) of short cycles at the chamber spot. Then run a patch through and it will be filthy. This and the bore scope confirms that this technique does get rid of it.

Perhaps more aggressive chemicals will get rid of it. I am not willing to use CLR on barreled actions as it is too difficult to prevent the CLR from wrecking things outside the bore.

Now, the bad news is that even after getting rid of 95% of the carbon ring, I didn't see any improvement in group size. Admittedly it is effectively NEVER calm here, so no good conditions to really test for small improvements can be had.

 

[Mystic Precision]

Can you post the video link?
...

Now, the bad news is that even after getting rid of 95% of the carbon ring, I didn't see any improvement in group size. Admittedly it is effectively NEVER calm here, so no good conditions to really test for small improvements can be had.

just because you can see some fouling in the throat and/or bore, doesn't mean it will affect your result.... nor that it is harmful to your results.

Let the target guide you to the extent you need to clean.... using a borescope will almost always lead you to over clean.

For me, less is more.

Simple test if you have a bore scope... take to the range, view the barrel after cleaning. Shoot until the barrel settles down, look again. shoot until it is at is peak accuracy... look again. Compare to when you feel the barrel is fouled out.

YMMV

Jerry

 

[guntech]

I would not recommend a bore snake in a precision rifled barrel... When using a bore snake how does one hold it centered on the muzzle so the snake doesn't wear on the crown? I would much prefer using a quality rod and a bore guide in the action.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

I would not recommend a bore snake in a precision rifled barrel... When using a bore snake how does one hold it centered on the muzzle so the snake doesn't wear on the crown? I would much prefer using a quality rod and a bore guide in the action.

I appreciate the advice and will follow it.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

Can you post the video link?

I read this article last month and have been toying with the info in it. Including scoping a couple of my own barrels, and trying to get the carbon ring out.

IME, normal bore cleaning products simply won't get rid of the carbon ring. By that I mean things like Hoppes and BLACK GUN CARE, plus brake cleaner. I've tried them on a wet patch on a jag, pulled through, and left to sit at that spot for hours. They simply don't touch the carbon ring. After very few patches they come out pristine white, indicating they have stopped doing anything - confirmed by the bore scope.

So far the only thing I've found that shows a noticeable impact is a metal bore brush, with dozens (I get worn out before 100 stroke cycles) of short cycles at the chamber spot. Then run a patch through and it will be filthy. This and the bore scope confirms that this technique does get rid of it.

Perhaps more aggressive chemicals will get rid of it. I am not willing to use CLR on barreled actions as it is too difficult to prevent the CLR from wrecking things outside the bore.

Now, the bad news is that even after getting rid of 95% of the carbon ring, I didn't see any improvement in group size. Admittedly it is effectively NEVER calm here, so no good conditions to really test for small improvements can be had.

https://youtu.be/MTYAQxMEvcA

 

[adamg]

I would not recommend a bore snake in a precision rifled barrel... When using a bore snake how does one hold it centered on the muzzle so the snake doesn't wear on the crown? I would much prefer using a quality rod and a bore guide in the action.

Follow-up question: How does any of the material the makes up the bore snake cause "wear" on barrel steel?

 

[Jahnj0584]

Following. I've never cleaned any of my barrels. Fight me.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

Lilja statement on rimfire barrel maintenance: https://riflebarrels.com/support/22-rimfire-maintenance/

 

[horseman2]

Right after the last shot for the day, a Tipton Felt Cleaning Pellet is pushed through the barrel.
When sufficiently fast, the smoke from the last shot can be seen exiting.
The thought being to remove the burn powder rather than it remaining in the bore.
About five shots are required to back to the point of impact.
This procedure is followed with all of my Bolt action rimfire rifles.

 

[skwerl]

Right after the last shot for the day, a Tipton Felt Cleaning Pellet is pushed through the barrel.
When sufficiently fast, the smoke from the last shot can be seen exiting.
The thought being to remove the burn powder rather than it remaining in the bore.
About five shots are required to back to the point of impact.
This procedure is followed with all of my Bolt action rimfire rifles.

Hey Mel , I concur with your method .
If not right away , all I do is the dry patch after range time.

 

[guntech]

Follow-up question: How does any of the material the makes up the bore snake cause "wear" on barrel steel?

Anything pulled over the edge of a crown will eventually damage the crown and accuracy will suffer. Bore snakes often are contaminated with what is in a fouled bore and that can make it worse as well.

 

[adamg]

Anything pulled over the edge of a crown will eventually damage the crown and accuracy will suffer. Bore snakes often are contaminated with what is in a fouled bore and that can make it worse as well.

The stuff in the fouled bore is the same stuff that goes over the crown every shot fired, pressed with far more speed, pressure, and heat by the bullet.

I'm just not a believer that things like cotton and brass bristles can wear barrel steel. Here's some strong evidence. I would gladly consider any evidence to the contrary that can be presented.

 

[Grizzlypeg]

The stuff in the fouled bore is the same stuff that goes over the crown every shot fired, pressed with far more speed, pressure, and heat by the bullet.

I'm just not a believer that things like cotton and brass bristles can wear barrel steel. Here's some strong evidence. I would gladly consider any evidence to the contrary that can be presented.

The bullet does however remain parallel to the bore throughout its travel and exit at the crown. The same can't be said for a string or even a brush that exits the bore, as it can (and a brush will) exert force on the edge of the crown at 45 degrees to it. Even water will eventually etch stone. Hardened cutting tools dullen, despite cutting material significantly softer than the tool. Just a few thoughts on the subject of soft not damaging hard.

 

[grauhanen]

One needs to take particular note not only of HOW he cleans but also what he cleans FOR. Most importantly, he also says that the wrong kind of cleaning will undo all of the breaking in of the barrel that has gone before.

Here's a brief summary of what the author advocates for cleaning.

While insisting that at least 1000 rounds are needed to season the bore, he recommends only patching the bore with carbon remover, not any other solvent such as Bore Tech Rimfire Blend, for example. He doesn't ever want to remove any lubricant, fresh or old, from the bore. The only brush he uses is a nylon brush in the chamber area. He doesn't recommend using a bronze brush as that will remove too much lubricant, and by his account, and lead. He claims that the 1000 rounds worth of seasoning "lays down a coating of lead and bullet lubricant in the rifling. This coating is what we refer to as seasoning. It fills in small imperfections in the bore and provides a smooth surface for the bullet to travel across."

__________________________

This method assumes that 1000 rounds of seasoning are needed as the basis of a good and consistently shooting bore. It assumes that good quality bores require a significant amount of leading laid down from 1000 bullets travelling through the bore.

If these assumptions are correct, then it makes sense not to clean the needed 1000 rounds' worth of lubrication and leading. But are these assumptions correct?

Do good bores like those on the Vudoo rifle he has require 1000 rounds to become properly lubricated? No. While the number of shots required to appropriately season a .22LR bore varies between rifles, with the exception of Roman, author of the article in question, no other "authorities" or experts suggest that half-a-box of ammo (one round per inch) isn't sufficient.

Do good bores acquire a significant coating of lead as a result of shooting? No. Leading is usually almost non-existent in good quality bores. This is not a matter of contention. As the Lilja information linked above says, leading is almost non-existent in good bores.

Roman's assumptions don't make sense.
___________________________

And for anyone wondering, experienced shooters at international ISSF events (Olympic-style shooting) and serious BR shooters, regularly clean with bronze brushes. Used properly, always with a proper bore guide and quality cleaning rod, a bronze brush doesn't damage the bore.