revert mosin nagant ex-sniper

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majormarine

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revert mosin nagant ex-sniper:

If you have an ex-sniper with existing plugs, you can remove them by drilling pilot holes from the inside of the receiver and try to get the plugs out with a screw extractor.

can this be done safely? what is the rate of success? it will be really cool if it's doable, cuz there is no need to drill and tap!
 
I don't think you can. I've read somewhere that the plugs are welded and then machined down, but I hope this isn't true because I have an ex-sniper as well and thinking of re-sniping but no quite sure yet.
 
Sure, you can do it. Several CGN members have resnipered ex-snipers with success. Easy, not always. It depends on how hard the welds are in the holes. Find a competent smith and let 'er rip!
 
It's easier to convert a non-sniper to a sniper because as you know welds cannot be drilled through. Welds can only be ground.

I did re-convert an ex-sniper, but it wasn't easy.
 
Where is the welds on the PU ex-sniper?

OK, now the process involves grounding and grinding off the weld, but i have a hard time determining where is the weld... :redface:

i quickly drew up an 'x-ray' diagram. in the diagram, imagine the muzzle of the rifle is pointing away from you and the butt of the stock is just in front of your face.

so, the weld is where 'THE WELD?' in the diagram is?

PUexSniper_weld_diagram.JPG




skirsons said:
It's easier to convert a non-sniper to a sniper because as you know welds cannot be drilled through. Welds can only be ground.

I did re-convert an ex-sniper, but it wasn't easy.
Click to expand...
 
I found this:

Dorian_Grey had quite an experience trying to drill out the old plugs. I think it took him like 8 hours or something with carbide bits and a drill press (but I dont remember exactly).

I'd try to get his take if I were you.

I wanted one of these, but now I dont see them too often. I'd love to put a modern scope on one with standard D&T right on the top and see how it shoots.

Supposedly they are more accurate than regular 91/30s, so I'd like to see just how good they are with a modern scope in a modern config.
Click to expand...

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=21225
 
The thing is, it's not like he says "Drilling brand new holes." Brand new holes would be easier. No wonder it took that chowderhead 9 hours. It would take a few minutes to drill brand new holes; if you are trying to drill through a weld it would take forever. Welds need to be ground, not drilled!
 
skirsons said:
The thing is, it's not like he says "Drilling brand new holes." Brand new holes would be easier. No wonder it took that chowderhead 9 hours. It would take a few minutes to drill brand new holes; if you are trying to drill through a weld it would take forever. Welds need to be ground, not drilled!
Click to expand...

After all the threads I've read about resnipering a Mosin, I wouldn't even consider doing it without a good machinist with a milling machine. JMHO.

Basically, a Mosin sniper is either a real one as built, or anything less is a replica sniper. Might as well just make a rack grade Mosin into a sniper in that case, it'll be almost as authentic and a hell of a lot easier to accomplish the work on.
 
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I've done it with a help of a Gunsmith. He was not happy. It was a #####. You also have to be careful with the original/replica scope mount that you're gonna use. There are 3 different hole sizes that the Russian used. Before you order the mount make sure you have the correct hole sizes.
 
I did it to a mosin of mine - correct year and arsenal to be a sniper, so close enough for me. It's actually pretty difficult to do yourself even without having to grind the old welds out, so I'd suggest not trying it.

To be honest, unless you've got machine training, you'll likely end up with a marred finish and off center, off angle, or irregular holes if you grind them. Not something you want for sure.
 
Can't these weld plugs be reheat-treated to lower their tempering?
It's currently been done on surface-hardened receivers for drilling and tapping.
The method involves a pinpoint oxy-acetylene torch and a gradual process in three or four passes to just spot-heat and anneal a very small zone, softening the surface hardened layer.
I don't remember exactly how it is done but it works.
PP.
 
Yes I think you can anneal the weld, but that would also damage the finish around the plug. Welds can be drilled, I can't speak for these ones in particular, but I have repaired slopped out holes on machinery by welding them up, grinding and redrilling. As far as Average Joe attempting to remove the weld and plug, you're going to wreck your rifle. A pro would have a hard time doing a good job.
 
skirsons said:
The thing is, it's not like he says "Drilling brand new holes." Brand new holes would be easier. No wonder it took that chowderhead 9 hours. It would take a few minutes to drill brand new holes; if you are trying to drill through a weld it would take forever. Welds need to be ground, not drilled!
Click to expand...

Hahaha no kidding, I would have just drilled my scope mount holes towards the muzzle end with enough mm to safely and securely clear the older welded ones. :D
 
How about using a small grinding bit of the right diameter from something like a dremel tool ? Then just tap the holes and slap on the mount and scope.
 
RobSmith said:
How about using a small grinding bit of the right diameter from something like a dremel tool ? Then just tap the holes and slap on the mount and scope.
Click to expand...

That's the way to do it. A diamond grinding bit worked just perfectly for me when I did mine. It took a little longer but I wanted an original sniper rifle as the basis for mine. It wasn't of the right diameter (it actually was a dremel bit) but if they made something like that it would be preferable.
 
H Wally said:
Something slightly smaller even might be a good idea, just to give you room for error?
Click to expand...

It sounds like a real mind boggler of a job...apparently those welds are diamond hard...my luck with drilling precision holes isn't good...:eek:

I'd end up with broken bits and egg shaped holes and discoloured bluing and even less hair...and we won't mention taps breaking off in the holes...
 
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