adjustable gas block

we did have a basic version for a while,

some better stuff is in the works but it's hard to make it all fit into a low profile ar15 handguard.

We're trying to develop something more from from first principles
 
Is there a bit of instruction to be shared on how to install/operate the 5.56 adjustable gas block? Just got one and am not 100% how to install it

Thanks
 
Is there a bit of instruction to be shared on how to install/operate the 5.56 adjustable gas block? Just got one and am not 100% how to install it

Thanks

Me too. I figure the big piece goes all the way in, replacing the original set-screw, but the set-screws that comes with the kit, a bit of info on that would be good.

Maybe the 2 set-screws are to lock against each other, once a setting is found?
 
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There was some description on their old web site but as of today it looks like they’ve updated the site and the adjustable gas valve is not listed.

I’m curious myself… TNA?
 
Me too. I figure the big piece goes all the way in, replacing the original set-screw, but the set-screws that comes with the kit, a bit of info on that would be good.

Maybe the 2 set-screws are to lock against each other, once a setting is found?

Yeah. Big lack of info on the installation and use of the new gas valve. The reason I haven't bought one actually.
 
Messed with it today. Removed the stock set-screw and piston cup, installed the new piece, with locktight of course.

Fired 1 round with no kit set-screw in, and of course, the gas went out the front and didn't cycle.

Put a kit set screw in just at the front to just plug the hole, it cycled and locked bolt open.

I figure, if the kit set-screw makes the gun cycle & bolt lock when just at the beginning of screwing it in, it can only make it cycle more, by screwing it in closer to the kits ports.

Don't know where to screw the kit set-screw in, to make it blow off and not cycle. It's only done that with the kit set-screw not in place.

Will mess more on the next range day.
 
Me too. I figure the big piece goes all the way in, replacing the original set-screw, but the set-screws that comes with the kit, a bit of info on that would be good.

Maybe the 2 set-screws are to lock against each other, once a setting is found?

I got this email from Colin at TNA.

“ The first screw will cover the holes to set the gas and the second one is used to jam against the first to hold the position from walking off.

Screw the valve in all the way to the bottom

When you need to adjust you will unscrew the second screw all the way out, adjust the first screw and when happy put second back in

Ideally you want to have the carrier just cycle and lock back on empty mag and no more.”

The set screws go in from the muzzle end, the second one locks the first one in place after it’s been adjusted to where you like.
 
Messed with it today. Removed the stock set-screw and piston cup, installed the new piece, with locktight of course.

Fired 1 round with no kit set-screw in, and of course, the gas went out the front and didn't cycle.

Put a kit set screw in just at the front to just plug the hole, it cycled and locked bolt open.

I figure, if the kit set-screw makes the gun cycle & bolt lock when just at the beginning of screwing it in, it can only make it cycle more, by screwing it in closer to the kits ports.

Don't know where to screw the kit set-screw in, to make it blow off and not cycle. It's only done that with the kit set-screw not in place.

Will mess more on the next range day.

Going to be testing mine tomorrow.
It looks like the first set screw should cover some of the gas port in the block. I’m going to start completely covered so the action doesn’t cycle. Adjust for more gas from there.
 
Going to be testing mine tomorrow.
It looks like the first set screw should cover some of the gas port in the block. I’m going to start completely covered so the action doesn’t cycle. Adjust for more gas from there.

Just adding info. With my homemade attempt, when I fully closed the gas port, the rifle still cycled (hard). It blew back through the barrel I figure.

Also gonna braze-up a long allen key tool, for ease of adjustment reach.
 
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Just adding info. With my homemade attempt, when I fully closed the gas port, the rifle still cycled (hard). It blew back through the barrel I figure.

Also gonna braze-up a long allen key tool, for ease of adjustment reach.

Good to know, very strange all the same. I had an adjustable GB on my AR and could close the gas completely which would stop the bolt from cycling
 
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