Question about Rollsizing - reducing resize effort?

V

VanMan

CGN frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
186   0   0
Location
Vancouver, BC
Have started loading 357, 38sp and 44mag in large quantities (1000-2000 rounds/batch) on my 650 and 550, and have sadly developed tendonitis in my elbow.

Looking for ways to reduce resizing effort (44mag is a bear!). Would rollsizing first reduce the effort to run through the decap/resize die? I've read on the rollsizer.com website the following.

4. DO I HAVE TO RESIZE THE CASES AFTER ROLLSIZING?
Yes, all rollsizing processes require cases to be resized afterwards.The rollsizing only effects the bottom 1/3rd – 1/4 of the case. the normal sizing die will handle the rest.

The resizing process is usually part of the reloading process so no additional effort is required.​

Anyone have experience with this?

I do have a 1050 I use for 9mm, but automating that and investing in 1050 toolheads/caliber xchange kits would not be a cheap proposition.

The alternative is I lube the brass and then clean it after resizing prior to running it through again to reload it.
 
No experience with rollsizing.

However a spray lube on on my 9mm in the xl750 makes a huge improvement. Certainly feel it after a just a few hundred rounds never mind 1000+. Quick walnut tumble after they are reloaded and they look and feel Great. Maybe not practical for the 44.

Was always under the impression the roll sizer was for brass with unsported chamber like a Glock that slightly blows the bottom of the case out of spec. Where the sizing die won’t reach.
 
VanMan said:
doing more online research, it appears that the Case-Pro 100 does a full length sizing. Anyone have any experience with a Case-Pro?
Click to expand...

I had a case-pro, it doesn’t decrease the amount of force you need to use on your press to resize the brass after roll sizing - at least it is not notable as I rollsize the cartriges every time I reload, but the case lube spray is sweet, helps a lot and the amount of effort you need to put is minimal.
 
Roll sizing is used on semi auto cartridge to reduce case diameter below the portion the sizing die do not touch. The 9 mm ammo shot in a Glock are notorious to develop a bulge at the base of the case which is not touched by the sizing die.

The .40 S&W and .38 super to less degree but it depend on what gun they are shot from. Gun with light spring( such as used in IPSC) in open gun can also produce that bulge. Excessive or full power load can also get the gunto open- cycle early and produce the bulge at the base of the case.

The rollsizer will not make your 44 mag easier to size. It touch the extreme base of the case, not 90 % of the case. The case-pro touch maybe 35 % of the base of the case.

After cleaning your case, lube then with spray lube or put them in the tumbler with wax added to the media. The wax trick also make the case less sticky at the neck expanding/ powder die station, bonus, wax keep them from tarnishing..:)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the feedback, the tip about adding wax to the dry tumbling media is genius! Definitely will try that.

Janeau said:
After cleaning your case, lube then with spray lube or put them in the tumbler with wax added to the media. The wax trick also make the case less sticky at the neck expanding/ powder die station, bonus, wax keep them from tarnishing..:)
Click to expand...
 
not the answer I was hoping for, but exactly the experience I was looking for. I guess lube/wax is the way to go. Thanks

Eduardo said:
I had a case-pro, it doesn’t decrease the amount of force you need to use on your press to resize the brass after roll sizing - at least it is not notable as I rollsize the cartriges every time I reload, but the case lube spray is sweet, helps a lot and the amount of effort you need to put is minimal.
Click to expand...
 
Does the after market handle from Inline Fab look any better? I thought about one for my SD's but I usually only do 2-300 per sitting.

Clint
 
good question. My physio suggests maintaining a straight wrist during the down-stroke to push-stroke cycle will reduce the stress on my arm. Will definitely have a look at that. Thanks

m777 said:
Does the after market handle from Inline Fab look any better? I thought about one for my SD's but I usually only do 2-300 per sitting.

Clint
Click to expand...
 
Case lube works wonders. I know, you don't need it (in theory), but try it once, just once.
 
Rollsizing seems to be mostly associated with modern rimless brass. Older rimmed revolver brass like .44 would need something that rolls the case body without attacking the larger rim at the base. However, as others have said already, it's mostly just 9mm brass that's been through a Glock that benefits from the treatment. A wee touch of lube works wonders getting brass smoothly through a reloading press.
 
I do use case lube for resizing 45-70 brass and other rifle brass. It does reduce resizing effort significantly, but the liberal amount of case lube I use (had a couple stuck cases when I first started) means that cleaning after resizing is definitely necessary lol.

Wendell said:
Case lube works wonders. I know, you don't need it (in theory), but try it once, just once.
Click to expand...
 
As stated, above, lube on the cases makes a huge difference. I use the hornady spray lube whether I’m loading nine mil, 357 or 45. The difference is very noticable
Cue
 
Unless you get a motorized one a roll sizer is still going to require a fair amount of arm pressure so you may just be trading one problem for another. Good roll sizers are also quite expensive ($800+ for a manual, $1400+ for a motorized).

If you go the case lube route the easiest way to clean the lube off the cases is to give them a quick wash in lacquer thinner. Removes the lube almost instantly and the residue evaporates in a matter of a minute or two.
 
cueball said:
As stated, above, lube on the cases makes a huge difference. I use the hornady spray lube whether I’m loading nine mil, 357 or 45. The difference is very noticable
Cue
Click to expand...

do you do anything to clean the loaded rounds or is the residue not that sticky after resize/reloading?
 
ted_dent said:
Unless you get a motorized one a roll sizer is still going to require a fair amount of arm pressure so you may just be trading one problem for another. Good roll sizers are also quite expensive ($800+ for a manual, $1400+ for a motorized).

If you go the case lube route the easiest way to clean the lube off the cases is to give them a quick wash in lacquer thinner. Removes the lube almost instantly and the residue evaporates in a matter of a minute or two.
Click to expand...

If it significantly reduced the resizing effort, then I was going to invest in a motorized roll-sizer. It's looking like the RollSizer or Case Pro 100 only do the bottom ~1/3rd of the case for the 357 and 44mag which is my main concern. So lube is the answer. The lacquer thinner sounds interesting. Thanks for that tip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom