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- Thread starter bigbobmk2
- Start date
Looks like a sweated solder joint to me, not spot welds.
Two minutes with a Propane torch will tell the truth! And, if it is solder, it's gonna play unholy hells with any attempts to weld it!
As long as it's a clean surface, drill a couple holes in the outer ring, and plug weld it in place, gonna be better than any spot welds!
Two minutes with a Propane torch will tell the truth! And, if it is solder, it's gonna play unholy hells with any attempts to weld it!
As long as it's a clean surface, drill a couple holes in the outer ring, and plug weld it in place, gonna be better than any spot welds!
You think they really would have soldered a steel-steel surface that would be seeing the pressure of you racking it thousands of times? I mean i could break out the propane torch i suppose
All sorts of gun parts get soldered together with simple lead/tin solder. It takes a hella lot of force to break large surfaces apart!
Easy way to check, if it IS solder, you should be able to shave a bit off with a sharp knife.
If not soldered, then as before, drill a hole through the outside ring and weld a plug weld in to fill it.
David Henry
CGN Regular
- Location
- West of the big road
It looks like a silver solder joint. Degrease the area, press fit the two parts back together and put the torch to it until the solder flows. Done.
trevj-
soft soldered-highly unlikely
epoxy would be a better option compared to soft solder
read & heed post #6
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David Henry-
NEGATIVE
Ever heard of requiring..... FLUX
&
SILVER BRAZE will take specific FLUX & an oxy/acet torch, since LP or Mapp gas will NOTget hot enough to flow silver braze.
Not my first rodeo, since that profession started 15K + brazed parts ago.
read & heed post #6
I'm also having a bit of trouble getting the tub back into the slide (see photo 1), there was no soldering involved originally by the looks of it. I could use some ballistol or another lubricant and get it in with a mallet but then i would be worried about the metal not being clean when it comes time to weld.
I take that back, was able to get it in without the use of lubricants, now just a question of how to get it to stay in there which appears to be Tig welding, which i originally though and some other members here have pointed out.
bigbobmk said:
OMG - when I read the title and before I opened the thread, I had a flashback to the first firearm I ever bought in 1975. Guess what - it was a Mossberg 400 and the same thing happened after I had fired about 5 - 6 shots out of it. I was a teenager and didnt know what to do, but good old dad parceled it back in the box and we drove back to Canadian Tire where I had bought it and he got me a full refund on it.
That would never happen today.
Read and heed yourself. Go look at post #11 & 12.
As unlikely as you feel it may be, I have dealt with enough of it to know that it was used an awful lot. On guns, and gun parts.
The OP says no signs of solder though.
Hint-
soft solder & pure silver alloy will be SILVER colored.
cad free & cadmium silver braze will be STRAW colored.
alum &/or silicon bronze will be BRONZE colored.
Apparently,YOU have NEVER been any process of a Certified Brazer...by any stretch of your imagination!!
Look closely-
By what process was the Bbl lug attached to the barrel?
Super Glue
Oh give it a rest Dan, we got it, you know more than anyone else possibly could. Good for you! Seen and fixed enough work done by so called Certified folks to understand that paper is one thing, quality output is another. Certifications, in my experience, tell folks what you SHOULD know, and what you SHOULD be able to do, but do not equal capability. Got a Red Seal? Chuck it a fish once in a while.
Seen enough broken silver soldered Remington bolts, among other bad production soldered or brazed joints, to recognize a bad joint, and silver soldered my fair share of stainless pipe fittings too. But I don't claim Superpowers.
Since the OP says that there is NO signs of solder, I'll call in favor of "Sh1tty Spot Weld", at this point. Likely on a machine set up by a Certified Welder, but run by a wage monkey that just didn't care that much...Or maybe JUST the latter. Goes to show how even a pretty good picture, does not convey what can be seen in person.
On the top pic you can see the spot weld....on the side of the ring, where the two action bars/ rails are...drill out the spot weld on the ring...slide the tube back in..and weld the hole closes...done....maybe hit it with a grinder ....if you put too much wire in the hole.
10 minute job...at the most.. a 400 is a good shotgun..but they do break....they all do.
Cheers
Brian
10 minute job...at the most.. a 400 is a good shotgun..but they do break....they all do.
Cheers
Brian
