Single Action Revolver Practice

Asinity

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Spent a couple hours at my club's indoor range last night for some rimfire therapy enjoying my Ruger MK3 and newer Wrangler. I tend to practice at 7 yards and am just a casual shooter, getting out as I can throughout the year.

With my MK3 I am comfortable, I've had it for a few years and have put several thousand rounds through it. I can hold approximately 2.5 inch groups if I take my time at 7 yards, shooting two-handed.

With my Wrangler, I've had it out 3 times since I got it in September. Shooting the same way as my MK3 I feel like I print approximately 7 inch groups. Sitting down with my elbows on the bench for support, it doesn't seem to really tighten up. Slightly changed my grip and was able to close it up slightly but still am all over the place.

I know the gun is far more accurate than I am, it has to be in my grip or something that I am doing incorrectly. Prior to this I've only shot maybe a dozen rounds through a single action during my handgun safety course.

Would love some pointers.
 
I found if you allow the the gun to slightly tip forward a bit with your pinky kinda resting on the bottom of grip, works best.

This is with my SAA 45 Colt, so not sure about your .22
 
I suspect that the sights could be improved (for you). Having said that, the first thing I'd want to do is rule out the shooter as the variable, so I'd get someone else to shoot it. If everyone else seems to have the same issue, then (maybe) it's the gun and/or the ammunition. On the other hand, if the best shooters are able to shoot it well, even though you are struggling with accuracy, I'd next consider the sights, and whether they can be improved (for you).
 
have you sandbagged it to see what the gun can do when shooter skill is removed from the equation? It could also be the gun doesn't like whatever load you are using.
 
Strong hand pinky wrapped under and around the bottom of the grip is a pretty standard hold for a Single Action revolver with the smaller plow handle type grips. Most of the "gripping" is done with the middle two fingers and the pinky underneath feels good and also helps when cocking the hammer shooting with one hand.

For a 2 hand grip I mate my weak hand around the strong hand and then use the weak hand thumb to #### the hammer while shooting. It sits lower then it would on a semi auto and the thumb goes to the rear instead of forward.

Dry firing the gun with some home made snap caps ( cheap drywall anchors) is a good way to fine tune your grip and trigger pull.
 
Asinity: Your grip is the likely culprit. In your post, you mention that you were shooting the Wrangler two handed, the same way as your MK 3. I suspect this is at the heart of your problem.

Shooting single action revolvers is easily mastered. They just require a slightly different mindset from the way we were taught to shoot double action revolvers, or auto-loaders.

Perhaps these tips may be useful:

First: Your Master hand(whether left or right), does the majority of the work, when shooting a single action revolver. As already mentioned, the middle two fingers of the shooting hand form the strongest part of the grip. With thumb wrapping around to maintain hold. The pinky finger should also rest on the grip, as well*. This means positioning the hand a bit higher on the grip to make room. But, not so high as to interfere with hammer function. It takes a bit of practice to get it right, but will feel strong and comfortable, when acquired.

Note: *Positioning the pinky finger under the grip works well when shooting one handed. An aid in cocking. Plus, helps control muzzle flip. But in my experience, offers little to no advantage, with a two handed grip.

Next: Once you`ve established your Master grip...try this test: The trigger finger of your shooting hand should be able to move independently of the rest at all times, while gripping the revolver. You should be able to move the trigger finger freely and easily, in and out of the trigger guard, work the trigger, etc., without altering or relaxing your grip. Once you have a handle on that(takes little time to master) then, move on to establishing ideal trigger finger contact.

There is a tendency for many single action shooters to hook their trigger finger too deep into the trigger guard. Then, jerk or slap at the trigger. Which tends to throw shots off. Instead, concentrate on just the tip (pad of first joint) of the trigger finger making contact. The trigger finger then is in position where all it needs to do is come straight back....easily... to break the shot.

I suspect that another part of the problem is that, you`re not gripping the revolver grip firmly enough with your shooting hand. Since there is very little recoil and muzzle flip with a .22, there is a tendency to hold with a more relaxed grip. This allows the revolver to flop around in the hand during recoil. Which results in inconsistent grip. As a result of which: shots group all over the place.

The cure: Maintain a very firm and consistent grip, while shooting. You don`t need to crush it....but good, hard, steady pressure. A strong grip.

Important: The off hand`s job is to work the hammer. And not much else. In which case, you don`t want to grip as tightly with your off hand, as you might when shooting your Mk 3. Or, like when shooting a double action revolver. This excess pressure will tend to pull the gun`s muzzle downward and either left or right, depending on shooting hand, when cocking the hammer. If your group also tends to print low and left or right, that is a good indicator of too much pressure being exerted by the off hand.

So...your off hand should maintain a fairly light grip. With the palm exerting very light contact. Just enough to stabilize the gun in your hand. But not much more. The shooting hand will always have the most influence on grip.

Also: The thumb should move comfortably and freely while cocking the hammer. When done right, thumb movement should cause minimal gun movement during the cocking stroke.

With many shooters, it helps to place the index finger of the non-shooting hand on the front of the trigger guard. This acts as a pivot point and stabilizer for the thumb when working the hammer.

It takes far longer to explain all this in print, than in actual practice. But, this may be helpful to start.


Al
 
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Absolutely appreciate the feedback you've all provided. Thank you.

I've got some things to try next time I'm out and in the meantime will keep giving my snap caps some use at home to figure out that comfortable spot to hold the revolver.

I haven't taken the time to test it on a more stable rest, I'll look into doing that next time to see if I can get it to calm down. My understanding is the notch and blade sight setup on the Wrangler can be a little "off", I don't think there's much else to do with that type of sight setup.

Again, I really appreciate the advice!
 
I haven't handled a wrangler, but typically if the sights are non adjustable all you can do is drift the rear sight for windage and then possibly file the front sight down a bit if it was really shooting way low. but otherwise it's just a matter of learning what works best for you ammo as far as where the front sight sits in the rear notch.

For the 2 hand grip, my weak hand's thumb rests on the web of the strong hand between the strong hand's thumb and trigger finger when firing then comes up to work the hammer and back down to fire.
 
Asinity: If you can shoot your Wrangler off a steady rest, that will soon show you where the gun shoots. Your club should have some pistol rests available for use. Where the gun actually groups on paper(high, low etc) will also depend a lot on what ammo it was regulated with. The sights will soon tell the story. It may be right on. Or, shoot a bit low....which is not at all unusual. That can be corrected too. As Can-down suggests, this may involve filing a bit off the front sight, until point of aim/bullet impact matches. Not a job for the inexperienced, though.
But, if you want to tackle the job yourself, best advice: Go very slowly, file carefully and take only a couple of strokes off at a time. Shoot a group after each adjustment. Always, evaluate each group in the process from a steady rest.

Al

ps: Dry fire practice using snap caps is one of the best ways to develop good single action technique. Practice as often as you can, until muscle memory and confidence in your technique is established.
Set up and train each session, just like you were using real ammo. Including using a target, for reference.
 
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If you only shoot .22 it may be possible to get used to no recoil and hold the gun too loosely. Those of us used more of a variety of calibers tend to bring a stronger grip to even the lighter guns.

Doing some one-handed shooting may help refine your grip as that makes it more critical to have fingers in the right places to maintain a grip with those middle fingers while having the trigger finger free to reach the trigger or take the off-the-trigger rest position, and the thumb to work the hammer. Using both hands makes it too easy to use any which grip that lets one hand's index finger work the trigger while the other hand's thumb does the hammering.

Having a local coach who can verify the gun shoots well and watch how you're doing it may work better than having a bunch of us try and figure this out over the Internet!
 
Asinity: If you can shoot your Wrangler off a steady rest, that will soon show you where the gun shoots. Your club should have some pistol rests available for use. Where the gun actually groups on paper(high, low etc) will also depend a lot on what ammo it was regulated with. The sights will soon tell the story. It may be right on. Or, shoot a bit low....which is not at all unusual. That can be corrected too. As Can-down suggests, this may involve filing a bit off the front sight, until point of aim/bullet impact matches. Not a job for the inexperienced, though.
But, if you want to tackle the job yourself, best advice: Go very slowly, file carefully and take only a couple of strokes off at a time. Shoot a group after each adjustment. Always, evaluate each group in the process from a steady rest.

Al

ps: Dry fire practice using snap caps is one of the best ways to develop good single action technique. Practice as often as you can, until muscle memory and confidence in your technique is established.
Set up and train each session, just like you were using real ammo. Including using a target, for reference.

This was the bump I needed to get off my butt and order some snap caps for myself. Thanks again Alex for your wealth of information.
 
infidel29: You are welcome. As a matter of interest: when I dry fire practice, I use dummy rounds that duplicate the weight of live rounds. Which helps mirror the weight, feel and balance of my revolvers as closely as possible, when I draw and execute a shooting sequence in cowboy action competition. May not work for everyone. But seems to, for me.
Al
 
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"If you only shoot .22 it may be possible to get used to no recoil and hold the gun too loosely. Those of us used more of a variety of calibers tend to bring a stronger grip to even the lighter guns."

I totally agree. I have a Beretta 71 .22 which weighs approximately nothing. It requires a strong grip for any kind of accuracy. A loose grip results in wasted ammunition and a target with no holes in it.
 
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