Browning Superposed.. any info?

The original choke designations will be marked on each barrel. Just break the gun open, check the left side of barrels near chamber area. The chokes are designated by asterisks.
If both are really full, you will see a single " * " on each barrel. There are other combinations which indicate different choke options.
Often, chokes get changed from what they were originally. To know what they really are now, you would have to measure both the bore and the choke to determine current actual constriction. If you are unable to measure the bore, it is pretty safe to assume the bore is .725 in those guns.
Definitely looks like a Broadway rib.......Would say the original intended use was for Trap Shooting.
 
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warzaw said:
That gun is unalterd it's a skeet model I have a full set 12 20 28 410 . They called that model Superskeet A $1000 on a trade is a steel IMHO you did good on that deal Trans Am the saltwood thing is more fiction than fact only happens when a gun gets soaked and not properly cleaned and dried.
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You mean used. LOL

I hardly think Browning would have replaced thousands of stocks no charge over decades once the problem was identified if the problem was fictional. More likely the saltwood era guns that don't have salt damage are guns that hardly got used.....exactly the kind of gun that astute buyers are looking for when they buy a used gun.
 
Salt wood is real and a gun doesn't have to get soaked for it to appear but after 50 plus years it's usually quite easy to figure out if they have salt wood or not. Often there will be some pitting where the metal meets the wood but taking out a recoil pad screw will usually tell you for sure.
 
I guess I have been LUCKY all these years. Properly cared for and stored dozens of salt guns only one that got soaked on a Woodcock hunt and my buddy did not take care of it properly. Browning did not replace thousands of stocks they sealed and patched most them up sent them back. Most any gun will give problems with poor storage and maintenance . IMHO
 
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canvasback said:
You mean used. LOL

I hardly think Browning would have replaced thousands of stocks no charge over decades once the problem was identified if the problem was fictional. More likely the saltwood era guns that don't have salt damage are guns that hardly got used.....exactly the kind of gun that astute buyers are looking for when they buy a used gun.
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Why would a astute buyer purchase a salt would gun ? The salt problem is real but not to the extent that some people believe . My two cents
 
Falconflyer said:
Salt wood is real and a gun doesn't have to get soaked for it to appear but after 50 plus years it's usually quite easy to figure out if they have salt wood or not. Often there will be some pitting where the metal meets the wood but taking out a recoil pad screw will usually tell you for sure.
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I have seen a Beretta 686 that my friend stored in a damp cold basement the stock screws had to be cut off and the internal action was a ball of rust . Salt wood ? He had a auto 5 that the stock swelled and split at the receiver salt wood ?
 
Falconflyer said:
Salt wood is real and a gun doesn't have to get soaked for it to appear but after 50 plus years it's usually quite easy to figure out if they have salt wood or not. Often there will be some pitting where the metal meets the wood but taking out a recoil pad screw will usually tell you for sure.
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Are the recoil pad screws Phillips or flat?
 
Removed the stock, there was some rust for sure, probably from being in a safe for 30+ years. The screws in the butt pad weren't rusty, and the main screw that threads into the reciever wasn't rusty at all.

I cleaned it all with rem action cleaner, and a brush and then some CLP, I'll try it out Sunday on our league day!
 
There are some critical areas in an O/U that require regular lubrication, I would use something more substantial than CLP. I use grease, others use a dedicated gun oil.
 
cosmic said:
There are some critical areas in an O/U that require regular lubrication, I would use something more substantial than CLP. I use grease, others use a dedicated gun oil.
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I use grease on the knuckle where the barrel meets the reciever, Lucas red and tacky. Any areas that show a metal on metal wear get it, after about 4000 rounds through my Citori you can clearly see where it needs it. It practically falls open now.
 
warzaw said:
I always respect your opinions and what you have to say plus the years spent in the game. All of our opinions are exactly that opinions not always fact and I include myself in that statement.
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Thank you for the compliment warzaw and I too recognise that opinions are opinions and individual mileage may vary! There's a lot of experience and knowledge in this area of the forum and I long ago learned not to discount views or opinions that were different than mine.
 
Some pics showing the width of the rib and underside of the recevier would help id but it looks exactly like the 2 Superposed Broadway Traps I had at one time. It has the look of a Broadway rib from the side view and is wearing the wider forend. Mine(both of them actually) were later models and as NIB pretty much. One was a Lightning Grade made in 1974 and the other a John Moses Special(limited run of 749) made in 1981. Yours looks like the '74 Lightning Model. I'm 99.9% you have a factory original Broadway Trap. Both mine were 30" bnls choked F *over IM *-. I sold the pair around 2003-2006? and at that time got $2200 for the Lightning and $4500 for the JM Special. I sold them to order a new Kolar Trap Combo and never did order it. Wish I'd never sold them!! No idea what a Broadway is worth today?
 
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