I have a modern in line ML. I notice that my first few shots are are better grouped that later shots..about 10 shots and accuracy decreases. Is it me or does a hot barrel change the point of impact? Because of this I usually have to limit my sight ins every fall to about 10 shots max. I send a cleaning patch b4 every shot.
ML accuracy-cold/hot barrel
- Thread starter Ed Smurf
- Start date
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If your swabbing every 5th shot, it's keeping the crud factor at a minimum. A barrel heat is a minor consideration with these rifles.
I find the accuracy issue after a dozen or so shots of 380 gr bullets and 95 gr of Goex FFG is human induced.
If your swabbing every 5th shot, it's keeping the crud factor at a minimum. A barrel heat is a minor consideration with these rifles.
I find the accuracy issue after a dozen or so shots of 380 gr bullets and 95 gr of Goex FFG is human induced.
Ed Smurf: Barrel fouling is the most common accuracy robber when dealing with muzzle loading rifles. Barrel heat, not so much. You mention that you run a patch after every shot. Is this a dry patch only? If so, that alone won't get rid of stubborn fouling build up. Which is at the root of your accuracy problems.
When sighting in a muzzle loading rifle, I like to duplicate hunting conditions as closely, as possible. In other words: First shot, out of a clean, cold barrel. Every time.
So, my goal is to try to achieve that kind of consistency... throughout the shot string.
Here's a method I've been using for quite a few years:
After firing, wet a patch with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol),and swab the bore with it. Followed, by one or two(or as needed) clean, dry patches. The alcohol does a great job of cleaning out the fouling. Evaporates quickly, leaving little if any, residue behind. The dry patches take care of any that might remain. The bore ends up clean, shiny and dry. Ready for the next reload.
This method works for me. Possibly for you, too.
Al
ps: Old flannel shirts, etc., make great cleaning patches. Simply cut to the size you need.
When sighting in a muzzle loading rifle, I like to duplicate hunting conditions as closely, as possible. In other words: First shot, out of a clean, cold barrel. Every time.
So, my goal is to try to achieve that kind of consistency... throughout the shot string.
Here's a method I've been using for quite a few years:
After firing, wet a patch with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol),and swab the bore with it. Followed, by one or two(or as needed) clean, dry patches. The alcohol does a great job of cleaning out the fouling. Evaporates quickly, leaving little if any, residue behind. The dry patches take care of any that might remain. The bore ends up clean, shiny and dry. Ready for the next reload.
This method works for me. Possibly for you, too.
Al
ps: Old flannel shirts, etc., make great cleaning patches. Simply cut to the size you need.
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I did not mention that I used pre saturated cleaning patches b4 every shot...sometimes 2. Also using Pyrodex pellets. I like the alcohol soaked patch idea. Would you recommend 99% alcohol since anything less contains water...but maybe a warm barrel will eliminate the humididty.?
Ed Smurf: I've used everything from 50% up to 99% alcohol. But, finally settled on 90-99% (99% preferred), as it pretty much eliminates any water contamination, at all. Barrel status, ie: cold/warm, did not seem to make much difference. Alcohol is dirt cheap, too. A 500 ml bottle lasts a very long time.
I can`t remember the last time I bought pre-soaked patches. But, do recall that they caused more problems than solved. Thus, my switch to a cleaner alternative. That was decades ago. Haven`t looked back, since.
I use a small squirt bottle to apply the alcohol to the patch. Doesn't take much. Neither does the patch need to be dripping wet. You will soon determine how much works best, for you.
I carry the small bottle and extra patches with me while hunting, too. If time permits, I will swab out the bore after the shot(if a follow-up shot is needed). Maybe not really necessary, as two or three shots can often be loaded without noticing any real accuracy degradation. But, where possible I like to remain consistent.
It bears mentioning that, alcohol cleans out bore fouling just as effectively, whether you use Pyrodex or black powder. That includes loose powder, or pellets.
Al
ps: B-noser is right. One old flannel sheet will make thousands of patches. A nearly lifetime supply.
I can`t remember the last time I bought pre-soaked patches. But, do recall that they caused more problems than solved. Thus, my switch to a cleaner alternative. That was decades ago. Haven`t looked back, since.
I use a small squirt bottle to apply the alcohol to the patch. Doesn't take much. Neither does the patch need to be dripping wet. You will soon determine how much works best, for you.
I carry the small bottle and extra patches with me while hunting, too. If time permits, I will swab out the bore after the shot(if a follow-up shot is needed). Maybe not really necessary, as two or three shots can often be loaded without noticing any real accuracy degradation. But, where possible I like to remain consistent.
It bears mentioning that, alcohol cleans out bore fouling just as effectively, whether you use Pyrodex or black powder. That includes loose powder, or pellets.
Al
ps: B-noser is right. One old flannel sheet will make thousands of patches. A nearly lifetime supply.
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I don't know much about muzzleloaders, so forgive the ignorance, but do they generally have very heavy barrels?
I have a Mossberg 4x4 (centerfire) in 30-06, and I can take maybe 2-3 shots max before the bullet strays all over the place. If I attempt to shoot 6 or 7 in a row without letting it cool down, I will not even be on paper anymore at 100 yards. I used to think the rifle was garbage, until I learned about the heat affecting these really thin barreled rifles. Now I will shoot 1 shot, pull back the bolt and leave it open to cool while going through a few mags on my 22. Once it has been several minutes, I will take another shot with the 30-06. This seems to be the only way to group with this rifle.
Ed Smurf: it does take a fair bit to heat up most ML barrels - depending on calibre a .75 cal Brown Bess will heat up after a few shots, I doubt you could load a .32/.36 with a 15/16 barrel fast enough for it to heat up. Fouling is probably the culprit. change your brand and granulation if it is a real problem.
I don't hunt, but Alex's advice make perfect sense - you are not getting a second shot in the field, sight in with a cold bore.
At the range I swab between every shot using blue shop towels cut into appropriate patch sized squares..... pop one in your mouth before the shot (they taste like ass) shoot - wet patch, dry patch .. reload.
I bought a 4 gallon jug of 99% at the beginning of covid for around $45 (when people were making their own hand sanitizer - I needed it for making shellac/woodworking etc.) - still have 2/3 of it!
Agree - pre-cut/pre-soaked are pretty useless. Hit fabricland and look for the stuff on sale - picked up 2sq meters of tight cotton weave for about $12. cut into strips, ... patch knife.
