Beretta trigger not resetting the 2nd shot

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michelkhalaf

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Hello i am having this sporadic issue with my beretta trigger not resetting the 2nd shot, it is a used DT11 black.
It is becoming quite frustrating because it happens sporadically.

My question is who in canada is qualified to work on beretta triggers?
And if no one is, how can i send it to COLE’s from Canada?

Many thanks
 
michelkhalaf said:
Hello i am having this sporadic issue with my beretta trigger not resetting the 2nd shot, it is a used DT11 black.
It is becoming quite frustrating because it happens sporadically.

My question is who in canada is qualified to work on beretta triggers?
And if no one is, how can i send it to COLE’s from Canada?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

What type of ammo are you using? Often light ammo won't reset.

Have you cleaned the triggers? They drop out of a DT11 and before sending the gun anywhere I'd clean and oil the trigger assembly.
 
Hello, i am using challenger #8 light loads.
It’s funny because it doesn’t happen all the time just sporadically and it’s a skeet gun so no barrel selector.
Took out the trigger and cleaned it with WD40 and blew it with an air compressor.
 
The Dt11 is made for target loads so that shouldn't be a problem but being a used gun it may have been sold for the very problem your seeing. I've seen people "trapping" the trigger when wearing gloves on a cold day, that's fairly common and usually the shooter has no idea that he's doing it. Cleaning it thoroughly is the best place to start but barring that a trip to a competent gunsmith is in order.
 
As above, if it happens sporadically, it can likely be operator error - ie not letting the trigger fully return forward between shots. Next time it happens, make the effort to ensure the trigger is fully released, and pull the trigger again. If it fires, its operator error. If it doesnt, the inertia mechanism hasnt switched barrels. This can happen occasionally with light loads, and/or loose shouldering of the gun. However, it could also be indicative of a mechanical issue.
 
If you were to indicate where in Canada you live, you might be given some information regarding a competent gunsmith near you. There are several in Canada.
 
yikes3 said:
If you were to indicate where in Canada you live, you might be given some information regarding a competent gunsmith near you. There are several in Canada.
Click to expand...
Hello thanks a lot for your reply, i live in Montreal so if hou have any recommendations i would be more than glad!

Thanks
 
You can try Alain Combes. However, unless you can get the problem to replicate regularly, its a crapshoot. As mentioned previously, suggest you wait until the next time it happens and test it.
 
kamlooky said:
WD 40 is not a great firearm lewb.
The chit over times starts to form a bit of a hard layer.
Click to expand...

As above,, and to add, WD is a water displacer. It's not a great lubricant. It dries ultra dry leaving no lubricating qualities so you have dry metal on dry metal. Try running Rem-Oil or something similar. I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer on my Perazzi trigger. I use a small brush and just brush a light coat on any moving surfaces that touch.
 
This is just a suggestion. Next time this happens, keep the gun pointed in a safe direction and give the buttpad a good smack and listen. Call for the bird your on and go from there. If its not resetting its not a trigger problem but a recoil problem. If the gun is free recoiling on the first shot it may not reset for the second. No worries, maybe just being pounded and a bit recoil shy. No biggie. Many are and only the smart shooters realize it. Maybe a nice 1OZ load is all thats required. Most great shooters have a higher average with a 20 Gauge and many use it in the 12 Gauge. Precision arms in Milton can also help you or Stelios Chrisachou. WD 40 sucks but synthetic lube is awesome and not so affected by temp fluctuations like many lubricants. Snipers use Lighter fluid for trigger mechanisms and their lifes on the line so Ill leave it to you to figure what I use. Just my opinion and much great advice given.
 
Re operator errors, definitely a possibility with cold weather, heavy clothing, bulky gloves.

As mentioned above, it’s easy to trap the trigger preventing it from resetting or to not be fully into the gun which absorbs some of the recoil that is needed to operate the inertia block.

Has it ever done it when a buddy is shooting it? I’ve seen quite a few guns that only do this for the owner, and a few that “double” only for a particular shooter.

Do any of your shells sound a bit wimpy when fired? Light loads plus cold weather (especially if left in the car overnight) can result in incomplete ignition. We sell Challengers exclusively at our club and keep them stored in a sea can. I haven’t seen or heard many off-sounding shells even with the 24gm loads but there is an occasional one.
 
My first double, a Browning BSS, developed that problem just sitting in the safe for a few years while I was sweating off an injury. It had to go to a gunsmith but I blamed the single selective trigger, and never miss a chance to do do.
 
One needs to understand what happens with shotguns that use an inertia block to switch triggers...

They require firm recoil and shoulder resistance in order for the block to swing backwards releasing one trigger and to swing forward (by a light spring) and engage the other trigger. This inertia block needs to be clean and free of rust.

WD 40 is garbage as far as lubricants go. G96 Gun Treatment has been my choice for over 50 years.

Light loaded ammo contributes to inertia block problems as does a 'weak' shoulder.

Any actual 'gunsmith' can remove your stock, inspect and clean and lube the inertia block. If it came into my shop when I was operating it would have been a 10 minute $20 'repair' depending on how complicated the stock removal and if rust required further disassembly.
 
guntech said:
One needs to understand what happens with shotguns that use an inertia block to switch triggers...

They require firm recoil and shoulder resistance in order for the block to swing backwards releasing one trigger and to swing forward (by a light spring) and engage the other trigger. This inertia block needs to be clean and free of rust.

WD 40 is garbage as far as lubricants go. G96 Gun Treatment has been my choice for over 50 years.

Light loaded ammo contributes to inertia block problems as does a 'weak' shoulder.

Any actual 'gunsmith' can remove your stock, inspect and clean and lube the inertia block. If it came into my shop when I was operating it would have been a 10 minute $20 'repair' depending on how complicated the stock removal and if rust required further disassembly.
Click to expand...

The OP's gun is a DT11. No need to take the stock off because it has a drop-out trigger. I have the same gun and it is better than most for resetting even if off the shoulder.
 
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