Taylor 1860 Army .44 couple of questions

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45C

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Hello
So I just received my last pistol ( maybe), it a 1860 Arrmy.

Do the wedge get any easier to punch out out for cylinder swaps?
I need a small hammer to takeout /return mine.

Also wondering about conversion cylinders.
I’ve got 45 gear already, so thinking a conversion might be easier than trying to source lead balls and black powder.
But if I were to decide on black powder and ball, where’s a good place to find what I need?
Also, what exactly would I need?
Powder, balls and caps.
Anything else I might need to know?

Thanks

Brian
 
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45C said:
Hello
So I just received my last pistol ( maybe), it a 1860 Arrmy.

Do the wedge get any easier to punch out out for cylinder swaps?
I need a small hammer to takeout /return mine.

Also wondering about conversion cylinders.
I’ve got 45 gear already, so thinking a conversion might be easier than trying to source lead balls and black powder.
But if I were to decide on black powder and ball, where’s a good place to find what I need?
Also, what exactly would I need?
Powder, balls and caps.
Anything else I might need to know?

Thanks

Brian
Click to expand...

Howdy, one of the main concerns with black powder revolvers is a chain fire. It can happen when powder or primer from one cylinder inadvertently sets off another cylinder that isn't synchronized with the barrel.
In order to avoid this, several techniques can be used all of which involves sealing the cylinder. Be it shot cards on top of the powder or grease over the face of the cylinder opening and oversized balls that cut themselves to fit the cylinder. You'll have to find what works best for you.

Where to source black powder will depend on where you are, but as Goex is back in business, it shouldn't be a problem.

Yes, the wedge is supposed to be tight, and if you get a conversion cylinder for .45 acp, you'll probably find the wedge gets loose in short order.

Black powder is fun, surprisingly potent but ultimately messy and burdensome. You will quickly appreciate as to why modern cartridges are considered an improvement to firearms technology after you first clean the gun. Lol.
 
Double post for 45lc from other thread so you would see just my 2 cents

You bought a cap and ball use it as a cap and ball my thoughts. I have a fair number, few hints to make it more enjoyable.
1 get a 100count plastic cartridge box and pre measure your charges at home, 30-30 and 40sw work great as a charge holder and cap.
2 melt crisco in the microwave and suck up into a plastic syringe princess auto has them cheap. Over loaded cylinder To prevent chainfire. Keep warm in winter or else a little stiff.
3 break slide pin grease works great on the arbour.
4 make a wedge pusher from 1/2 hardwood dowel carved down like a flathead screwdriver just smaller then wedge, no Hammer needed and no scuffs or scratches
5 cast your own projectiles, good beer drinking activity.
6 make a cap seater from 1/4 dowel don't put fingers in line of fire. As well to prevent chainfire
7 clean arbour every 3 cylinders full with moose milk or your preferred range juice. And re grease
8 Never clean with boiling hot water you will cause flash rust.
 
geotndtwine said:
Double post for 45lc from other thread so you would see just my 2 cents

You bought a cap and ball use it as a cap and ball my thoughts. I have a fair number, few hints to make it more enjoyable.
1 get a 100count plastic cartridge box and pre measure your charges at home, 30-30 and 40sw work great as a charge holder and cap.
2 melt crisco in the microwave and suck up into a plastic syringe princess auto has them cheap. Over loaded cylinder To prevent chainfire. Keep warm in winter or else a little stiff.
3 break slide pin grease works great on the arbour.
4 make a wedge pusher from 1/2 hardwood dowel carved down like a flathead screwdriver just smaller then wedge, no Hammer needed and no scuffs or scratches
5 cast your own projectiles, good beer drinking activity.
6 make a cap seater from 1/4 dowel don't put fingers in line of fire. As well to prevent chainfire
7 clean arbour every 3 cylinders full with moose milk or your preferred range juice. And re grease
8 Never clean with boiling hot water you will cause flash rust.
Click to expand...

I seen it , thanks.
Seems like a lot of work, haha.
I guess that’s where multiple cylinders came in handy.
I already have everything I need for 45 LC so thought that might a better and easier option for me.
 
Brian, I've been shooting a pair of 1860 Colt clones and a pair of 1858 Remingtons in cowboy action Frontiersman for many years now.

Yes you need a few "extras" to make shooting cap, ball and loose powder more easy. But it's not super hard.

First off is to find the sort of caps that fit the nipples on your BP cylinder. Mention the source company and I may be able to help with the best option. There's four. CCI and Remington both make number 10 and 11 caps. But the two number 10's are slightly different and the two number 11's are slightly different. So really there's four possible options.

The next option nipple wise is to get a set of aftermarket nipples to suit your gun and then you can use the one size which works with that brand of nipples.

With the nipples thing out of the way I heartily recommend a loading stand so you don't need to remove the wedge. Just reload and keep shooting the one cylinder using the loading lever that comes with the gun itself. Assuming you're using dead soft lead for the balls they'll fit nicely once you figure out the size that swages off a slight ring of lead.

You'll find that black powder works well. I use 3F in my .44's. But there will be cylinder arbor fouling that gums up the works. You'll find that Canola cooking oil can do a wonderful job of keeping the cylinder spinning freely on the arbor for a full day. I put a drop on the arbor joint at the front face of the cylinder and spin it to spread it down the arbor after loading and before greasing or oiling the chambers. You read it right. I put a drop of the same Canola on the joint between ball and cylinder wall and watch it wick around the ring. That both seals and lubes the ball for its trip down the bore. Been doing it that way for many years now without issue.

You list your location as "Canada". But if your're in the western portion of the country Rusty Wood in Mission BC had both black powder and round ball in the right size. The choice between .454 and 457 being the difference between old and new Uberti and possibly Uberti to Pietta. Or in my case old to new Uberti. My older 1860's are labeled Navy Arms. But I understand that they are from the old Uberti. Those want .454 while the newer 1858's want .457. Or perhaps they are maintaining historical accuracy?

These days the big problem is finding percussion caps. You can ask but they are more rare than the proverbial hen's teeth.....

If you have other hand guns you really should try these 1860's with proper black powder. They are a whole other feel and worth the effort.
 
I second BCRiders post above, I do something very similar with my Pietta 1860's and have no problems at CAS matches with cap jams, or chain fires, or fouling making the cylinder hard to turn.

A lot is said about chain fires but I figure ball fitment is key, if you use an oversized ball that cuts a ring when you chamber it, and you make sure the ball is centred on the chamber mouth before ramming it in, then you likely won't need lube over the ball. I've never used the lube over the ball and have never had a chainfire incident.

I shoot Frontiersman at CAS match like BCRider does and learned from observing other Frontiersman have issues with their revolvers.
 
I agree about the chainfire scenario. Greasing seems to be a resolution to a non-issue, but I thought I'd mention it so he (the OP) was aware of the potential.
 
I tell you what. Open top designs that mimick the Colt are the bees knees for detail strip and cleaning post firing. Hot soapy water on a warm summer afternoon on the back deck.
Super dummy here for selling off my Armi San Marco Walker three years ago!
 
As far as grease over the balls and preventing chainfires goes... Fire one shot and see how much grease is left on top of the balls on either side of the fired chamber.
I use grease, but to provide a bit of lube. Can't do any harm.
 
45C: You have two options, when it comes to conversion cylinders: Taylor & Co., or Kirst. To my knowledge, conversion cylinders are not currently ITAR regulated. So, you should be able to order direct from the U.S. Or, through Rusty Wood.
Both Taylor and Kirst have websites which should offer the information you need to make your selection.
 
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BCRIDER said, [ You'll find that Canola cooking oil can do a wonderful job of keeping the cylinder spinning freely on the arbor for a full day.]
I use canola oil in a little plastic squirt bottle. a drop on each ball after loading and a drop on on the arbor joint at the front face of the cylinder. this is all the lube needed .

I have a Uberti Colt 1860 army model.
Brownie
 
I use a plastic mallet and a brass flat punch to remove the keys for all my BP rifles and Colt revolvers. The Remington 1858 uses no wedge so it would be more practical for your use...

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I didn't see any mention of moose milk, 1:10 ballistiol to water to nutralize powder residue and clean.

I wondered how this would go for people watching all the BP pistols sell out.
 
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