Annealing salts in canada ???
- Thread starter Mudduck
- Start date
Obviously you do not know the process and write without knowledge. Sometime it’s better to pass that write stupidity. You don’t know how to anneal either…
I do it with a pid for control. I also use the same PID as well for casting, parkerizing, rust blue, ceracoat and anything else that needs accurate control. I put it together myself. Hard part was finding a box to build it in.
I need to look at getting a PID controller somewhere
Any suggestions on where to purchase a reasonably priced PID controller for my LEE melter? It sounds like it really makes a difference in temp control for the salt bath. I dont have time to make one so Id rather just purchase it if someone has some suggestions.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I bought that Ballistic Recreations kit a few years ago - used it about half dozen times. A PID is not going to add power to make the Lee Melter work better - it just monitors the temp of the melt and gives power as needed in response to the temp. What I noticed - the B.R. kit came with a thermocouple and readout - so that you would see a number for what exact temp that melt was at. The Lee Melter pot basically has a scale from 1 to 10 - does not actually tell you what temp your melt is at - so you might have the dial on "7.2" to have the melt at 520F. So, if I decided that I wanted the fluid melt at 520 F - would plug all in and eventually get that Lee Melter to get that melted salt to 520 F as per that readout.
But, as I started to do cases, would see the temp drop - maybe down below 500F if you let it go that far - then stop and sit there until the Lee Melter got it back up to that 520 F. In the end, I think I settled on a range - when the readout went below 510F, I would stop - let the thing get back up to 520F - so my "annealing" was actually between 520F and 510F - was not at a precise temperature, as per that readout. I do not think a PID can do a lot better?? It will no doubt apply power faster as the temp starts to drop - but can not supply any more or any extra power than you get from the outlet. A PID might get you "finer" control, but if you are pulling heat out by inserting cold cases, at a greater rate than the Lee Melter can supply - the melt temp is going to drop.
As I understand it, the other part about "annealing" is time at that temp - so I would do case neck "soak" in that melted salt, for count of 5 seconds - is likely much to be argued about "how hot" should things be, and for "how long" to soak the case mouths at that temp.
I am not sure, but I think that "dial" on the Lee Melter pot is like a thermostat for a furnace - is an on-off switch - is NOT a throttle - so when it calls for heat, the thing applies full power to the heating element - until the temp is reached - then the element is shut off - is On-Off - not partially on - I think the various PID can vary the amount that goes in - to get "finer control" - but can not make any more power than fully "On". Would be like thinking to turn your wall thermostat for furnace way high - to get house to warm up faster - does not work that way - furnace is On or Off - is no "throttle" to make it put out more heat the higher the thermostat is set.
I would suggest that your true concern is to know what is the temp of the melt. The Lee Melter pot does not tell you that. So, I suspect cheapest might actually be like a thermometer that reads in that sort of temp range of the salt bath - like the old school Lyman dial readout thermometer for lead casting - I think that would read up to 1000F, but I actually do not know how "accurate" they were, although "modern days" - is likely a thermocouple readout, like on a PID, might end up to be cheaper to buy - but I really do not know if they are any more "accurate" or not - they do give a discrete number though.
Last edited:
BattleRife
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- of No Fixed Address
While I understand how that could be your perception, it's quite false. The Lee pots (and your outlets) actually have all the power they need to heat salts and lead to the proper temperatures, any difficulties people have are very directly caused by that dial controller. A good PID setup is a world of improvement, especially when the situation involves lots of little upsets to the temperature, such as when you are repeatedly dipping cold brass cases into a salt pot.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
As you might gather, I never used a PID at all, so maybe over-riding that "Lee Controller" dial thing makes a difference - something that I will try. TWO CGN'rs have described to me how they have done annealing for decades - one guy holds case in fingers - other guy uses electric drill, a deep socket - both use plumber's propane torch - spin in dim light until brass changes color slightly at neck / shoulder, and dump into water to prevent rear of case getting hot - both claim that works well enough for them - neither are dedicated bench rest competitors - so perhaps the need for "precise" is different. I think I will attempt that for my next batch - I never previously did that way, either.
You need to be doing them at 550°c.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I am not sure about how to do - that 550 C is circa 1022 F - much hotter than I had read previously - for how long do you "soak" at that temp?
https://ballisticrecreations.ca/sal...eratures-for-reloading-brass-cartridge-cases/
The folks at Ballistic Recreations indicate that 5 seconds is the time required at 550 degrees C.
I have been having good results (no split cases) using that method on my 38/55, 44 mag and 45 colt cases.
I use needle nose pliers to place the cases in the salt bath - and to remove them. I have a small pail half full of water that I cool the cases off after the salt bath. I run the cases in my wet tumbler for a half hour just to make sure that none of the salt was carried to the cases during the annealing.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
Yep - it was me getting the "F" and "C" mixed up - picture below from Ballistic Recreations pamphlet that came with the kit - the blue underline is by me. I read it to say that 550 C about highest to go. For whatever reason, I do not get to see what is in the link above - so maybe knowledge / recommendations changed over time ...
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