Recommend a good Hi Power gunsmith
- Thread starter DBeato
- Start date
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The 1935 High Power is not hard for ordinary mortals to work on. It is more forgiving than a 1911.
Stove pipes? Get a set of replacement springs. Then go shooting. Or, go shooting and change your grip. Don't limpwrist it! Hold the gun firmly and give the recoil forces every ounce of resistance your noodly wrists can provide.
Mag safety? It was a dumb idea in 1935 and still is. The plunger drags across the front of the magazine. If that spot is not highly polished, you'll have extra resistance and inconsistent trigger pressures. I forget how it comes out, but I remember it just sits in the back of the trigger with a little pin.
Bad feeds? Replace your mags with modern MecGar 10-rounders. The wartime Inglis magazines have been forced enough times to crack the welds and become unreliable. In 2007 when I trained up for Afghanistan what is all we had. There were ZERO feed problems. And way too many old sweats forget that pooled training equipment gets used the most heavily and is therefore the least dependable. Operational equipment is kept in good condition on purpose.
And I forgot to add - fire your Browning the wetter the better. Oil it up. Unless you are shooting a desert survival match, oil it and let a film of carbon form on the bearing surfaces.
Stove pipes? Get a set of replacement springs. Then go shooting. Or, go shooting and change your grip. Don't limpwrist it! Hold the gun firmly and give the recoil forces every ounce of resistance your noodly wrists can provide.
Mag safety? It was a dumb idea in 1935 and still is. The plunger drags across the front of the magazine. If that spot is not highly polished, you'll have extra resistance and inconsistent trigger pressures. I forget how it comes out, but I remember it just sits in the back of the trigger with a little pin.
Bad feeds? Replace your mags with modern MecGar 10-rounders. The wartime Inglis magazines have been forced enough times to crack the welds and become unreliable. In 2007 when I trained up for Afghanistan what is all we had. There were ZERO feed problems. And way too many old sweats forget that pooled training equipment gets used the most heavily and is therefore the least dependable. Operational equipment is kept in good condition on purpose.
And I forgot to add - fire your Browning the wetter the better. Oil it up. Unless you are shooting a desert survival match, oil it and let a film of carbon form on the bearing surfaces.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If a new gun suffers, I would look at the carbon interface next. In my opinion, the company will make as good a piece as they can and the workers will have had years of opportunity to get things right. Those old designs are not like a modern polymer gun - as I said above, hold them with a firm grip and a strong wrist. Give the parts something to push against on the recoil stroke.
New guns sometimes just need to be worked in. The roughnesses from the plant have to be smoothed over and parts need to find their places in life.
Although it hasn't been mentioned, your ammo could be too lightly loaded. A stovepipe jam is when there is enough recoil energy to unlock the barrel, extract the empty, kick it off on the ejector, and strip the top round off the magazine - but not enough to seat the round and lock. Light reloads might do that.
The army manuals say to apply a light coat of oil. That phrase is not helpful. I carry a machine oil bottle in my shooting kit. Put three or four drops on the rails and in the grooves per side. Put a dot of oil on the hammer and trigger pivot pins. Put oil on the locking lugs of the slide or top of the barrel. Without a mag, vigourously run the slide back and forth a dozen times. Wipe off the exterior runs, and be prepared to wipe your glasses after firing. As long as you don't deliberately cake the gun in fresh range floor sand every time, leave the oil to flow into crevices. These are little machines, and your chainsaw manual advises that you lubricate it. Good transferable advice. A dirty layer of carbon on any of John Moses Browning's designs is a good anti-friction layer because it isn't steel on steel.
New guns sometimes just need to be worked in. The roughnesses from the plant have to be smoothed over and parts need to find their places in life.
Although it hasn't been mentioned, your ammo could be too lightly loaded. A stovepipe jam is when there is enough recoil energy to unlock the barrel, extract the empty, kick it off on the ejector, and strip the top round off the magazine - but not enough to seat the round and lock. Light reloads might do that.
The army manuals say to apply a light coat of oil. That phrase is not helpful. I carry a machine oil bottle in my shooting kit. Put three or four drops on the rails and in the grooves per side. Put a dot of oil on the hammer and trigger pivot pins. Put oil on the locking lugs of the slide or top of the barrel. Without a mag, vigourously run the slide back and forth a dozen times. Wipe off the exterior runs, and be prepared to wipe your glasses after firing. As long as you don't deliberately cake the gun in fresh range floor sand every time, leave the oil to flow into crevices. These are little machines, and your chainsaw manual advises that you lubricate it. Good transferable advice. A dirty layer of carbon on any of John Moses Browning's designs is a good anti-friction layer because it isn't steel on steel.
