can't get my new to me M-1, 35 Whelan Garand to cycle

zuke

zuke

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I bought it on here a couple months ago. Danish receiver and the rest is Springfield. All reparked in a laminate stock.
It fires no problem but I can't get it to reliably cycle.
The barrel is marked CBI 35 Whelen 1-16 01/16 5C
I don't know what CBI represents, 1-16 I assume is the twist rate, 01/16 is date of manufacture and 5C the barrel material.
It came with a Schuster adjustable gas system and a BM-59 E type muzzle brake
I'm using 52gr of IMR 4064 pushing a 250gr bullet, so it should be cycling, but it isn't

Any idea's?
 
You should explain you problem a but better friend. Will the bolt move rearward upon firing at all?
Is this a case where after successful discharge a few rounds the partially full clip is ejected?
Have you tried a normal gas cylinder lock?
Or a larger port on the Schuster?
 
Brutus said:
You should explain you problem a but better friend. Will the bolt upon firing move at all?
Is this a case where after successful discharge a few rounds the partially full clip is ejected?
Click to expand...

Bolt opens up and eject's, just doesn't pick up the next round.
No, clip doesn't eject like that. I have to pull the bolt back to get the next round into the chamber
 
zuke said:
Bolt opens up and eject's, just doesn't pick up the next round.
No, clip doesn't eject like that. I have to pull the bolt back to get the next round into the chamber
Click to expand...

Go with simpler and least expensive solutions first.
When dealing with any Garand issue, problems are more easily resolved if you can compare the small parts to a proven functioning Garand.
That's right from the Kuhlhausen manual of troubleshooting.
 
Pay patricluar attention to your follower rod, action spring and bullet guide. Not a bad place to start if your gas cylinder and gas lock are in spec.

Edit: You really should find out the technical specs your gas port to ensure it's the correct size.
 
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It sounds to me like it needs a little more to give the bolt that extra bit it needs. I have adjustable gas port on my 30-06 and sometimes when that happens I go one size smaller or increase my powder charge. Or try factory ammo as suggested.
 
ok Need some answers to maybe solve your problems

I can tell you from my research 4064 might not be the best for working in your garand, it can work in the 308 and the 30-06 versions but does not create the best port pressure in 35W for a semi

what Bullet are you using and OAL / what brass 3006 converted? or factory
Depending on what you are using 53.0g could be a max load, but i do have data that lists a higher charge but never tried it

How is the shoulder? ???? the first time I shot a 35w it was prone and was not as hot/ heavy load as you are shooting
but I did shoot 65 round that day :( bruise but :) :)

I can run you numbers through GRT

I shoot a lot of cast and pistol bullets in my 35 whelen

What is your spring length ??? is it a new spring ???

Does it pass the tilt test ???
 
CBI = ht tps://criterionbarrels.com/

the best aftermarket Barrels for a M1 Garand
the 35w has a 1/16 twist

Direct replacement barrel for the M1 Garand rifle, manufactured to mil-spec print #6535448. It has the original G.I. contour and parkerized finish. Receiver threads are timed and all milling cuts are made. All M1 Garand barrels are hand lapped and held to match grade tolerances. Each barrel is .010 short chambered and should be properly headspaced by a qualified gunsmith. These barrels are legal for use in Service Rifle and John C. Garand matches.
 
Can you cycle through full clips reliably manually? (pull bolt back, let it go, repeat-repeat-repeat)

If you can - you haven't eliminated a mechanical issue, but you have made it less likely - things happen very differently when they happen very fast.

If you can, like the suggestions go, start with the simple/cheap solutions.

- try different ammo. I've always used varget in my 30-06 M1, no experience with Whelen or a bullet near that weight.

- try different enblocs - they can be as squirrely as mags ..

- get rid of the adjustable gas system

- check the op rod gas buffer - once those are too far out they start bleeding all kinds of gas.

- is your op rod damaged in anyway

- is the op rod spring and follower rod damaged (measure that spring for correct length)

- Everything Brutus said

And a surprising one .... is the op rod binding or rubbing in anyway on the inside of the stock. Aftermarket laminate, right?
3 out of 5 aftermarket stocks I had all needed extra clearance for the op rod.

My top guess is an out of spec op rod though. (who parked it, did they do the inside of the gas tube - have you had it off for inspection?)
 
guntech said:
That sounds like your reload isn't quite powerful enough, 52 grains is a lighter load ... What does a factory round do?
Click to expand...

I am leaning towards this, especially if the op rod is within spec. If the gas end is too narrow, it will let too much gas bleed by versus operate the action. You need to measure with a micrometer to realize this induced error/failure.
Once again the need for comparison fully functioning Garand
This will be compounded by too light a handload.
My 2 bits only.
 
The thing with gas port pressure

we Know what works on 308 - 3006

when you increase the bore size from .308 to .358 (35 whelen) the pressure at the gas port becomes very critical

we are told Only use 30-06 loads made for the Garand (147 to 178g bullet weights) no heaver and only specific powders

there has Never Been a factory Load made for a 35W GARAND and the bullet weights start at 180 and go up to 250g (most common loading)
 
Trying to make a gun do what it was not designed for ..always end up with headaches.
Start with the ammo..check your load and chrono it. The 308/30-06 powder might not be what is needed to make it work.

.35 Wellen load data I have for the 250 grains bullet has a max of 56.7 of 4064….your 52 grains might need to be bumped up a bit to make it function.
 
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I would be asking the fellow you bought it from what he was firing in it. He probably had a load worked out. If it was built and never fired then your going to have to start going through stuff and finding what’s wrong. A lot of good information mentioned already.
My guess is not enough gas pressure due to your port or reloads.
 
Brutus said:
There's a gunsmith-gunbuilder in the USA. He specializes in rebarrelled-custom Garands, inclusive 35 Whelen.
His website is named Schuffs Mini-G.
Probably send him an email for advise ???
Click to expand...

the only problem is it is a Mini M1 Garand ( shorter Barrel) shorter op rod / custom Spring

Shorter Barrel means Gasport is in a different location = Higher Pressure than a longer Barrel
 
just having some fun said:
the only problem is it is a Mini M1 Garand ( shorter Barrel) shorter op rod / custom Spring

Shorter Barrel means Gasport is in a different location = Higher Pressure than a longer Barrel
Click to expand...

Last time I viewed his website Schuff offered a few differing barrel lengths. Like I said previous, he's a custom rifle builder, various calibers, various barrel lengths, various sight options.
 
just having some fun said:
the only problem is it is a Mini M1 Garand ( shorter Barrel) shorter op rod / custom Spring

Shorter Barrel means Gasport is in a different location = Higher Pressure than a longer Barrel
Click to expand...

That won't change the fact you still need a certain pressure and curve for smooth and proper function. His load appears to be too light to achieve either.
 
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