Reloading kits??? What to buy?

I found the load development video series on the Panhandle Precision YouTube channel pretty good. His process makes sense and is basically what I’m doing now with good results.
 
I loaded for years on a single stage press. Mine was RCBS but the others are just as efficient. It doesn't sound like you need much other than the press and few accessories. Also need a good loading manual. Kits are ok but you don't need everything in it. You can spend 250 on a kit and still need a 60 manual, or buy a press, lube pad, book, and case trimming /cleaning tools for half the cost.
 
A friend of mine asked which book he should buy for starting.
Back in the days, I bought Nosler's 3rd edition, read it from cover to cover before starting, worked great. Then I bought some more.
But I have a trouble getting in the shoes of a new reloading guy and advise him which one. Your opinion?
 
In order RCBS, Hornady, Lee.

You can get into Forster, Dillon, Wilson, etc etc, but you're just paying more for something that does the exact same thing. The Hornady stuff is overpriced for the quality you're getting IMO, and the Lee stuff is perfectly functional, but can be a bit cheesy (not as rigid, cheap materials like wood, plastic and aluminum where there should be iron or steel).

The Lee book is excellent. It's basically all the load data from bullet and powder manufacturers compiled in one book. The general information at the beginning is great for a beginner too.
 
I question whether one needs to buy a manual these days, unless you just like books. ( I do) When I started reloading a manual was an absolute necessity as the internet didn't really exist.

Now There are step by step process videos put out by numerous sources, including most of the major reloading companies. Powder and bullet companies list most of their load data online. When you are confused about something (especially something to do with basic reloading) google has your answer in seconds.

For a single stage reloading press I would look at RCBS and Redding. Both good quality and you can make good ammo with them. LEE is always a bit janky. Hornady is ok. I only have used a Lyman turret press, not a single stage but they look pretty solid. The Gucci presses are obviously great but considerably more expensive for somewhat limited improvement.

If you want to load lots of .223 or handgun, a basic but good quality progressive like a Dillon 750 is the way to go. You can make pretty good quality ammo with it too, if you pick your components (mostly powder) correctly.

I load rifle ammo for hunting, precision target (not F-Class precise) on a RCBS single stage. If I want to make lots of it fairly quickly I use the Turret and measure every powder charge. For high volume I use one of my progressive presses.

There are lots of ways to get from A to B, it all depends on what result you want in the end!
 
I question whether one needs to buy a manual these days, unless you just like books. ( I do) When I started reloading a manual was an absolute necessity as the internet didn't really exist.
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That is true and convincing - however has the same weaknesses - if you do not have a mentor who continually reminds you about stuff - if you never learned to take good notes - will all be like "in one ear and out the other" - whether watching U-tube while something else going on in the room that interests you more, or having a book on the table for two years that has never been opened - neither going to do you much good, although you can claim you "watched the video" or that you "have the book".

From what I have found, that I was not ready for - mistakes on websites - Nosler load data for example - 7mm STW 1175 grain bullets, H1000 powder - exactly the same powder loads with 160 grain bullets - and that "Start" load for 175 grain is higher than was listed as Maximum in several previous Nosler manuals. Mistakes in books - same mistake in Nosler 9 manual. The belief that a manual or loading recipe gives you a guaranteed safe thing - versus it being a report of what they found to be safe, with their stuff - explains why if you read 8 sources, you probably get 8 maximum loads - none tend to be "wrong" - they reported what they got, with their stuff - what are you going to get, with your stuff? Have you read a reloading manual that did not tell you to work up to a load? Do you do that, or just go straight into a recipe that came from "somewhere".
 
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loaddata.com
Starting to reloadin with the help of a CGNner local to me.
Good single stage press like a RCBS rockchucker will work for small batches of ammo.
If your looking to reloading with vihtavouri powder, you can get a manual mailed free from hersch precision.
Best to have multiple manuals to cross reference, one manual might have quite different powder charges that they tested with.
If your looking to buy used equipment, places to look are on the EE, gun post and auction sight like icollector.
 
That is true and convincing - however has the same weaknesses - if you do not have a mentor who continually reminds you about stuff - if you never learned to take good notes - will all be like "in one ear and out the other" - whether watching U-tube while something else going on in the room that interests you more, or having a book on the table for two years that has never been opened - neither going to do you much good, although you can claim you "watched the video" or that you "have the book".

From what I have found, that I was not ready for - mistakes on websites - Nosler load data for example - 7mm STW 160 grain bullets, H1000 powder - exactly the same powder loads with 140 grain bullets - and that "Start" load for 160 grain is higher than was listed as Maximum in several previous Nosler manuals. Mistakes in books - same mistake in Nosler 9 manual. The belief that a manual or loading recipe gives you a guaranteed safe thing - versus it being a report of what they found to be safe, with their stuff - explains why if you read 8 sources, you probably get 8 maximum loads - none tend to be "wrong" - they reported what they got, with their stuff - what are you going to get, with your stuff? Have you read a reloading manual that did not tell you to work up to a load? Do you do that, or just go straight into a recipe that came from "somewhere".

When I am watching a Youtube tutorial- Say it's for disassemble/reassemble a gun I have not done before- I watch the first part, hit pause and do it. Then I watch the second part etc and repeat. You can use a video same as a book if you look at it like that. My first reloading I read the manual and it was Step 1 clean brass. I didn't have a tumbler yet so I just wiped them off. Now I have several tumblers and a cement mixer for high volume stuff :) Step 2 lube cases etc.

I never had a mentor, just taught myself. It's all about going slow and double checking stuff. But I have mentored so many new to reloading now. And it's great to sit and chat with other experienced handloaders about theories and techniques.

These days it's really easy to cross reference data. Pre internet it would mean buying multiple manuals. There sure can be some variations! I tend to like the bullet manufacturers data the best, because they know the properties of the bullet you are going to be using. But Hodgdon/IMR also lists specific bullets and powder charges too, as do many others. There isn't much data along the lines of 270 WIN 150 grain Bullet 57gr H4831 anymore, mostly because the bullet selection is so varied these days.

Once a person gets the hang of things, they can work up loads for cartridges that have no data available, too. For instance when the 375 Ruger was introduced, 2 rifles were imported into Canada and I got one of them. There was no load data so I used data for the 375 Weatherby which has a similar case capacity, and worked up. Within a few months data was available and my loads were perfectly in line with what was now published.

But always work up! :)
 
Some people can read some can't. I mean really pick up each word and understand it's meaning . It's a very rare skill. That lack of reading skill is all too prevalent, made worse by the gameboy mentality . I guess we shouldn't keep harping reloading manuals.
 
The RCBS kit goes on sale all the time at Cabelas.. or at least it used to.

Either that or put a WTB on the reloading EE forum - I am sure you could pick up all you need right here on the cheap.

Start studying the online powder resources and buy some manuals.. then pick up a few pounds of suitable powder and few thousand SR primers ASAP. Would suck having all the equipment and not be able to source the components.
 
Hard to make notes on a screen. I still use my Lyman 49th along with the internet

Excel on a tablet works wonders. Hornady reloading manual is available as an app, you can buy the whole thing or just the calibers you need.

Not sure why people sometimes treat it as an esoteric Jedi voodoo. Just read the manual and experiment a little bit. Knowing the basics of experimental design and stats helps too.
 
Excel on a tablet works wonders. Hornady reloading manual is available as an app, you can buy the whole thing or just the calibers you need.

Not sure why people sometimes treat it as an esoteric Jedi voodoo. Just read the manual and experiment a little bit. Knowing the basics of experimental design and stats helps too.

Please buy me a tablet, I'll use it if you do.
 
I joke reloading is rocket science . There is some truth to that. One has to understand what you doing and why. The reloading manuals are necessary for that . When I put together a reloading kit for my oldest son , I included Lee's second edition manual. That would be my suggestion. It's handy as it has all the powder company data in one place. And it does a good job of introduction to reloading.
 
A friend of mine asked which book he should buy for starting.
Back in the days, I bought Nosler's 3rd edition, read it from cover to cover before starting, worked great. Then I bought some more.
But I have a trouble getting in the shoes of a new reloading guy and advise him which one. Your opinion?


I had a guy over recently for a crash course loading for dummies and he asked the same question.

I have half a dozen books from 50 years ago until present. The information is all correct but the books most give the load data for the most popular powders of the day. A book would be six inches thick if they had all loads and powders listed. If you like old guns then find some old books. If you like new guns and new powders, get a new book.

I wouldn't recommend it for newbie loaders but programs like Quick Load are great for calculating charges of old guns with new powders. There is a lot of data to understand and input in order to get proper data and pressures for your charge mins and max..
 
I'm just starting reloading, as I met a guy at the range who offered to help me get started, and I took him up on it. Really great to have someone knowledgeable. He got 60 or so years of reloading experience, and that can't be gleaned from books or the internet. He is using a RockChucker, so for no better reason than he has one, and I have someone to ask, that is the one I am going to look for at the next few gun shows. (With his help, I am going to put what I need together myself, instead of getting a kit.)
 
Stay with green - RCBS of course! I've broken Lyman and Lee presses.......
Message me if you need any guidance bud.
 
Looking at a press as a piece of machinery instead of something mystic, a simple test of used press is to push the ram up to the top of the stroke, then try to wiggle it. This will give an idea of manufacturing slop and wear. They are built with tolerance and the grit over time will wear the cast iron bore. Keeping your new ram clean and oiled is very important. I was over at my buddy's place and I checked out his old Rockchucker. "Your press is worn out. " Next time I was over he had a new Redding.

The ram is supposed to center under the threads , it's not that easy a measurement to make. I would have tested mine out if it was ,long ago. But I remember reading how one guy went on that quest. He tried a RCBS ,a Redding and a Lyman. All single stage cast iron. His best was the Lyman . But he felt it was more a luck of the draw than the brand. He went on to use a Co-Ax.

I started out with a Lee aluminum O-frame press that came with their Anniversary Kit . I broke a few pot metal toggle links using Lee Collet dies . I finally did the " fix" and used the handle and linkage off another press model. They are made and sold like that now. Enough of us complained and bought parts, I guess.
 
When you are measuring powder for rifle shells - do you use a powder thrower right into the case? Or do you go from powder thrower to the scale pan, then scale pan to case?

What do you guys like to use to fill the case with powder, from a scale pan? I've been hesitant to spend money on any kind of funnel until I got some feedback. Seems like there's a ton of options ranging from cheap to hold your wallet. (Until now I've just used a Dillon for charging shells with powder)

I've searched and this has to have been covered here before, but I must not be using the right search words, sorry if this has been covered dozens of times
 
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