survival 22

Yes

04rubicon said:
that gevarm posted there, does it fire from and open breech? ie breech closes after triger is pulled? Way back when i took my PAL i was warned that if ever picking up a gevarm not to assume it was safe because the breech was open. just wondering if this is the gun he was talking about.
Click to expand...

This is that gun! I've owned a dozen over the years and NEVER had any of the problems I've heard attributed to them. However, the comment about safety when the breech is open is certainly true. But, only a blind person could miss the fact that the magazine is sitting there with a round perfectly aligned for the chamber!

IF you wish to carry the gun cocked (not recommended, but nearly necessary if hunting), the bolt handle is pulled completely to the rear and pushed to the left. The left end will slide through a hole in the left side of the receiver holding the bolt back.

To fire when on "SAFE", one only need pull the bolt handle to right, releasing the bolt, and pull the trigger. The bolt slams forward, strips a round from the magazine, and the wedge-shaped bar across the front of the bolt acts as a firing pin as soon as the round is completely chambered. It strikes the primed rim on BOTH sides of the cartridge - DOUBLE IGNITION. The expanding gases from firing forces the bolt rearward and as the empty case hits the left lip of the magazine it's flipped to the right. The bolt is held to the rear by the sear (open bolt) until ready to fire again.

No extractor, no ejector, nor firing pin to break. Only three major moving parts - aside from two springs.

Best regards ~ ~ ~ mauser
 
Funny i bashed the Takedown AR-7 rifles..
Then i bought a brand new Henry Survival rifle yesterday :)
If you take out the one bolt spring on the side opposite the ejection port,it cycles sub-sonic and target ammo perfect!
 
(Ronin) said:
Funny i bashed the Takedown AR-7 rifles..

Most bash until they shoot! ;)

Then i bought a brand new Henry Survival rifle yesterday :)

Always worth a try...

If you take out the one bolt spring on the side opposite the ejection port,it cycles sub-sonic and target ammo perfect!

Interesting approach - I know that with both springs in place, that's one stiff action to cycle (on the Henry's). Good for you to be so enteprising, and be careful with Stingers! The barrel on the Henry is supposedly not configured for long-term hyper-ammo usage.
Click to expand...

P.S. Let me save you some money? Here's a quick trick if you want to "extend" the bolt handle without purchasing the extended one on the MA-2000 shown here:

http://majesticarms.com/id13.html

By the way, I did purchase just the bolt-handle, and it still was a good deal. Anyhow, Youtube of all places taught me the "trick":

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yx9V9Of0lM8&feature=related

It's a poor man's trick, but it works, so huzzah!

Btw, Dino's got a "wicked-cool" mind:

http://www.freshpatents.com/Trigger...-survival-rifle-dt20060518ptan20060101695.php

So there...

:);):)
 
I'll have a new bolt handle whipped up shortly,thats the easy part.
It's melting the plastic in the butt to accommodate the action once it's on that will be a bugger.

I can see the steel lined plastic barrel being a problem down the road though..
One drop or too many rounds fired in a row and it may be toast.
 
Last edited:
(Ronin) said:
I'll have a new bolt handle whipped up shortly,thats the easy part. It's melting the plastic in the butt to accommodate the action once it's on that will be a bugger.

You can always keep the factory bolt handle in place while it's "packd-up", then switch bolt handles right before you re-fit the barrel. Just a thought; same amount of effort, either way.

I can see the steel lined plastic barrel being a problem down the road though..
One drop or too many rounds fired in a row and it may be toast.

Been okay for me thus far..
Click to expand...

Maybe, if I had a hi-cap for it, the Henry would be at most heat-risk...for now, seems to be ok with my rate-of-fire...;)
 
Ar7

I have an Armalite AR7 in camo from the early sixties I think, it says "patten pending" on it, just how far back do these models go? I have had it for years and it's solid and accurate, never had a problem. Cool gun, cool idea and design.
 
Browing SA takedown is best for sure. Get one of the old Belgians with the slim forend - takes less space than the bigger forend on the Japanese made ones. A rough looking one should be fairly cheap.
 
Don't turn lose of the AR/7 just yet,cause there are other boards that have only these on there minds.

And they say because the firing is too tightly bound in the bolt it can not rebound and the tip of the firing pin catches the round,and by simply removing the pin and fine sanding it will make it a #1 shooter!

Enertia firing pins have these problems.

Bob
 
Last edited:
bobbyjack said:
Don't turn lose of the AR/7 just yet,cause there are other boards that have only these on there minds.

Do tell? ;)

And they say because the firing is too tightly bound in the bolt it can not rebound and the tip of the firing pin catches the round,and by simply removing the pin and fine sanding it will make it a #1 shooter!

Interesting; please elaborate?

Enertia firing pins have these problems.

Any other models that have similar issues?

Bob
Click to expand...

Just some queries? ;)
 
I bought a Charter Arms AR-7 off CGN a few years ago. The barrel seemed to be made out of aluminum and the previous owner had completely shot it out. I sent it back and got my money back.

Personally I think they are garbage and would rather go with the M6. In a survival situation I don't think a semi-auto is approproate. You need to make everyshot count because you have limited ammo. Plus the .410 ga allows for slugs and larger game.

My 2 cents.
 
cyclone said:
Just some queries? ;)
Click to expand...


Some of the Turky over and unders(Hugly?)and side by sides had fireing pins too thick for them to return from batterey,and some auto-loaders as well!

Just what I have read ,cause the only thing I would buy from Turkey would be something we could all light up in a bowl(and that ain't going to happen)!

Bob:wave:
 
Mine's brand spanking new and i gotta say,it shoots like crap!
It cycles fine and everything and seems decently built,but every shot is a flyer :(
I'd be lucky to make 4" groups at 50 with it,and yes i know it's not a target rifle,but that's bloody horrible
 
(Ronin) said:
Mine's brand spanking new and i gotta say,it shoots like crap!
It cycles fine and everything and seems decently built,but every shot is a flyer :(
I'd be lucky to make 4" groups at 50 with it,and yes i know it's not a target rifle,but that's bloody horrible
Click to expand...

How's it do at 25 yards, tho?
 
(Ronin) said:
Mine's brand spanking new and i gotta say,it shoots like crap!
It cycles fine and everything and seems decently built,but every shot is a flyer :(
I'd be lucky to make 4" groups at 50 with it,and yes i know it's not a target rifle,but that's bloody horrible
Click to expand...

Rested or free hand? One I shot years ago was hard to shoot freehand due to it's (my opinion) light weight. Rested on a bench it actually did quite well. Believe it was a Charter Arms, but not 100%
 
cyclone said:
How's it do at 25 yards, tho?
Click to expand...
That's damn near point blank to me..just a waste of ammo.
I have the plastic steel lined barrel version and i think an all steel barrel would help it greatly.
I'm a steady shot and i can honestly say it's bloody horrible as it is now.
 
Last edited:
HeVGunner said:
Rested or free hand? One I shot years ago was hard to shoot freehand due to it's (my opinion) light weight. Rested on a bench it actually did quite well. Believe it was a Charter Arms, but not 100%
Click to expand...
freehand..but i am a very steady shot,i grew up with a cooey 39 and have no problems staying on target and placing my shots.
I can deffinetly outshoot this rifle
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom