Remington 700 Bolt Knob Threading-FINISHED

HOSSONE

HOSSONE

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Hey Guys, I am going to be threading my Remington 700 SA bolt to put a larger knob on. I have seen 2 different ways to do this. One being cutting the knob off, drilling a hole and inserting and welding in a machined down screw or the second being machining the current bolt knob down to the proper diameter and threading it for the new knob. This is what I was planning on doing. I have read the reason guys insert it with a screw is because they say its not strong once you machine down the bolt knob due to voids in the casting making it weak?

Anyone with real life experience doing this have an opinion? I am capable of doing either but in my opinion keeping it solid and machining the threads out of the current bolt knob is a stronger method, but that is only based on opinion and not real world experiences.

Thanks!
 
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Sometimes there is a void in the handle from casting or what ever process Remington uses... I preferred to saw and roughly grind the complete knob to a diameter I could start a die onto... make sure to hold the actual handle in a vise while threading the die on and not the bolt body. Make sure you thread as square to the bolt handle as possible. Reshape the sharp edges on the handle to blend in and polish to finish.
 
If you are planning on doing any welding on the handle, remember that it is brazed to the body. Don't let the heat run up the shank.

I have the jig to hold the bolt body in the lathe. I turn down the knob and thread it for the replacement.
 
Thanks Everyone. I'll stick with the original Plan. It will be set up in a CNC, diameter and threads will be milled from existing material. This is the Bolt knob going on. Whipped it up this morning, Once I clock the orientation on the bolt handle i'll send it out for anodizing. This Will keep me busy while wait for my Barrel and scope........

 
HOSSONE said:
Thanks Everyone. I'll stick with the original Plan. It will be set up in a CNC, diameter and threads will be milled from existing material. This is the Bolt knob going on. Whipped it up this morning, Once I clock the orientation on the bolt handle i'll send it out for anodizing. This Will keep me busy while wait for my Barrel and scope........

Click to expand...
Beautiful job on the bolt handle with the maple leaf. You should produce them for sale!!
 
OP,
Nice knob.

Replace the cast OEM Remington handle w/ a properly TIMED CNC'd threaded handle.

Any OEM Remington handle's TIMING issue (radial) will not be fixed w/ a TactiKool knob modification.

Thousands of bastardized handles replaced/repaired to date.
 
HOSSONE said:
Thanks guys. I will have to do some research on the Timing issue as I am unfamiliar with that. Always nice to learn something new and make some parts……
Click to expand...

At the factory Remington bolt handles often are not soldered in the correct location for the best primary extraction... sometimes it is so bad it requires correction.

So the handle has to be removed and located correctly and attached. DAN40X in Alaska specializes in doing this.
 
OP,
Depending on your receiver/bolt/handle vintage-
From '62 thru late 80's,4,5,6,A,B,C prefix serial numbered bolt handle shanks from the sweep to the wrist above the knob were contoured by radii the corners of the handle shank.
The above handles appear to have a purpleish color as they were tempered/hardened & did not take the hot bluing to be deep black/blue colored.
Threading the above handle for a knob,since the shank is tapered w/radius corners will not allow a shoulder for said knob to butt up against stressing the thread that will snap off easily.

Any D,E,F handle shank is/was not contoured/radius from the sweep to the wrist above the knob & are dark blued since the handle was NOT tempered/hardened.

Any 2006 "G" to current production RR & RemArms RAR handles are the latest configuration & total JUNK.
(easily rendered serviceable)

Any OEM 2 lug Rem bolt & bolt handle is TIMED into BATTERY & NOT TIMED for PRIMARY EXTRACTION.

Depending on handle vintage - 4,5,6,7,A,B,C receiver handles will be .080" out of TIME radially for PRIMARY EXTRACTION.
D,E,F handles suffer the above also.

2006 G,S,TT,RR,RAR handles will be .150" out of TIME radially.

Repositioning the bolt handle closer to the receiver as read on the internet will not address the TIMING issue unless a simple task is performed to fix/cure the issue prior to re-location & properly timed.

There are 5 simple steps to properly TIME a Remington bolt handle.
(some Clone bolts/handles are worse that the worst Rem in existence)

15,000 + to date...& counting on a daily basis.
 
Just a comment on the wrist section of the shank at the transition to the knob...
There are thin wristed and wide flatter wrists.
When doing the former, I turn the knob off leaving a shoulder from the original knob against which the replacement knob can be seated.
 
guntech said:
At the factory Remington bolt handles often are not soldered in the correct location for the best primary extraction... sometimes it is so bad it requires correction.

So the handle has to be removed and located correctly and attached. DAN40X in Alaska specializes in doing this.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I’m going to do some research on this.
 
DANS40X said:
OP,
Depending on your receiver/bolt/handle vintage-
From '62 thru late 80's,4,5,6,A,B,C prefix serial numbered bolt handle shanks from the sweep to the wrist above the knob were contoured by radii the corners of the handle shank.
The above handles appear to have a purpleish color as they were tempered/hardened & did not take the hot bluing to be deep black/blue colored.
Threading the above handle for a knob,since the shank is tapered w/radius corners will not allow a shoulder for said knob to butt up against stressing the thread that will snap off easily.

Any D,E,F handle shank is/was not contoured/radius from the sweep to the wrist above the knob & are dark blued since the handle was NOT tempered/hardened.

Any 2006 "G" to current production RR & RemArms RAR handles are the latest configuration & total JUNK.
(easily rendered serviceable)

Any OEM 2 lug Rem bolt & bolt handle is TIMED into BATTERY & NOT TIMED for PRIMARY EXTRACTION.

Depending on handle vintage - 4,5,6,7,A,B,C receiver handles will be .080" out of TIME radially for PRIMARY EXTRACTION.
D,E,F handles suffer the above also.

2006 G,S,TT,RR,RAR handles will be .150" out of TIME radially.

Repositioning the bolt handle closer to the receiver as read on the internet will not address the TIMING issue unless a simple task is performed to fix/cure the issue prior to re-location & properly timed.

There are 5 simple steps to properly TIME a Remington bolt handle.
(some Clone bolts/handles are worse that the worst Rem in existence)

15,000 + to date...& counting on a daily basis.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I have a current production action. I bought the action only new this year.
 
As I understand it, the extraction camming surfaces should be engaging as soon as the the bolt has rotated far enough that it is able to start moving rearward. The engagement of the camming surfaces on the bolt handle and receiver can be observed.
I have a R700 .30-06 which I assembled using salvaged parts from a number of different rifles. Stock from one, receiver from another, take-off barrel from a third, bolt body which had shed its handle. I had one of Brownells universal bolt handles on hand. Ruger 77 style, blank saddle. I cut the profile to create the camming area and silver brazed the handle in place. Got the fit close enough that I lapped the bolt extraction cam to the receiver cam to obtain smooth operation. Maximum primary extraction.
 
tiriaq said:
As I understand it, the extraction camming surfaces should be engaging as soon as the the bolt has rotated far enough that it is able to start moving rearward.
Click to expand...

This is what is most important... and the fact that the top of the bolt handle that stops upward bolt lift is "timed" so the bolt lugs clear at the same time.
 
For the inquisitive CGN'ers-

Remove the firing pin assy from the bolt body.
Insert the bolt into the CLEARED...no dummy,no loaded rounds receiver.
Tip rifle muzzle down.
Gravity slides the bolt forward & the handle rotates the bolt into BATTERY.

With ONE finger
Apply slight rearward pressure on the front face of the handle/knob to push the bolt aft to ensure the bolt lugs are against the abutments in the front receiver ring.
Slowly rotate the bolt w/ rearward pressure...one finger..to rotate the KNOB to 2o'clock position(RH rcvr)...10 o'clock (LH rcvr)
When the centerline of the handle/knob gets to 1 o'clock position , the bolt lugs will start to come off of the 35degree BATTERY cam angles in the front receiver ring.
STOP
Ease the handle down as not to let the bolt lugs to come onto/engage the BATTERY cam angle.

The above position is where the handles PRIMARY Extraction cam surface should KISS the PRIMARY Extraction cam 35 degree DRAFTED angle in the aft end of the rear receiver ring/bridge.

Depending on handle vintage you will have....080" to .150" clearance between the handle & receiver ring PRIMARY EXTRACTION CAM surfaces.

A LINEAR dimension (not angular) of the receiver extraction cam surface is .110"
IF you have .025" clearance between the handle & the receiver rear bridge......1/4 of the possible extraction is missing out of the box.

The forward face of the bolt handle requires clearance (.008"-.010") or the bolt will bind/torque & the platform will NOT perform to it's potential.

Unlike the Y'Tubers vids(who haven't a clue) as mentioned, repositioning the bolt handle closer to the receiver does NOT accomplish a damn thing...except incite more frustration for the operator.
Adding a Louisville Slugger Base Ball Bat to the bolt handle does NOT accomplish a damn thing either...except look KOOL for the MAll Ninja's.

There are 5 aspects required for a properly TIMED bolt action bolt handle to function....correctly!!
I listed 2 of the requirements.

IF you are reaching for a KNOB, you are wasting TIME....learn how to cycle a bolt properly...w/ 2 fingers & possibly a thumb bump to start forward momentum.


For the SouthPaws-
Do NOT think that a Remington LH bolt/handle is a mirror image to it's RH brethren...it is NOT.
 
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IF you are reaching for a KNOB, you are wasting TIME....learn how to cycle a bolt properly

Yes... don't wrap your fingers and thumb around a bolt knob...

palm it upward and hook it with your little finger fully backwards, palm it forward and down.
 
Looks like i'm the unlucky one and got a void...lol! Its actually quite deep, guessing around .100" or so. Its away from the base so I dont think it will be an issue. I ended up removing the knob on a EDM machine to avoid excess strain on the brazed connection so I will have to put the threads on manually.

 
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