Remington 600 DIY sling mounts

BillyBastone

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Does anyone have experience making sling mounts on a wooden rifle stock?
What tools would be needed, and what mounts would you recommend?
I'd like to put a Rhodesian sling on my R600.

Thanks,

Billy B :cool:
 
You'll need a drill with a selection of bits in the proper sizes - probably at least three.
And the skill to lay out and drill the holes straight, in the correct locations.

Here is a hint: one of the pieces will have coarse threads to engage wood. Take a three cornered file and make little cuts in the end so that it resembles a tap. When you turn it into the properly sized hole you've drilled in the butt, it will tend to cut its way in. Better tha just turning it in as is - this can tend to wedge and can possibly promote splitting.
 
I have ended up with several wood stocked hunting rifles that needed the sling attachment studs redone - drilled to be crooked to centreline of the stock, not installed at right angles to the surface, or way too close to the tip of the recoil pad / butt plate for my taste. From several factory rifles here - appears 2 3/4" to 3" about "normal" distance for the rear stud to the tip of the butt plate or recoil pad - I have seen pictures of English (?), German (?) sporting style rifles that the rear sling attachment might be 6" or more from the rear - and they look like they belong there.

I do not know what is the "correct" distance from front of the fore-arm tip - I have seen pictures of some rifles with front sling swivel installed to the leading end of the forearm - but never used or owned any like that, except a BPS shotgun that got carried a lot of miles for prairie chickens. Is some rifles with short forearm that the stud is attached to the barrel - I think that was for using the thing as a "carry strap", not as a "shooting sling".

Out here in the boonies, I have seen rifles done up with the sling swivel bases from No. 4 Lee Enfield and similar - the base parts usually inletted into the wood - then fastened with two wood screws - and same unit used on both front and rear - I think makes super strong set up - but about no sense on a "sporterized" two piece stock that only has one "King Screw" holding the forearm in place.
 
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Take it to a gunsmith and get it done professionally/properly. Too many nice old guns with messed up sling studs around already. Don’t need anymore.
 
Take it to a gunsmith and get it done professionally/properly. Too many nice old guns with messed up sling studs around already. Don’t need anymore.

I recommend you take it to a gunsmith who has the correct drill set and skill as well.
 
I have ended up with several wood stocked hunting rifles that needed the sling attachment studs redone - drilled to be crooked to centreline of the stock, not installed at right angles to the surface, or way too close to the tip of the recoil pad / butt plate for my taste. From several factory rifles here - appears 2 3/4" to 3" about "normal" distance for the rear stud to the tip of the butt plate or recoil pad - I have seen pictures of English (?), German (?) sporting style rifles that the rear sling attachment might be 6" or more from the rear - and they look like they belong there.

I do not know what is the "correct" distance from front of the fore-arm tip - I have seen pictures of some rifles with front sling swivel installed to the leading end of the forearm - but never used or owned any like that, except a BPS shotgun that got carried a lot of miles for prairie chickens. Is some rifles with short forearm that the stud is attached to the barrel - I think that was for using the thing as a "carry strap", not as a "shooting sling".

Out here in the boonies, I have seen rifles done up with the sling swivel bases from No. 4 Lee Enfield and similar - the base parts usually inletted into the wood - then fastened with two wood screws - and same unit used on both front and rear - I think makes super strong set up - but about no sense on a "sporterized" two piece stock that only has one "King Screw" holding the forearm in place.

Very detailed response. Thanks for the info
 
600s have been appreciating in value quite significantly. If I had a really fine unaltered one, I don't think I would install studs. If the rifle is a garden variety used one, I would.
You may find that picking up a good used donor stock could take a bit of time, and the cost might be more than you'd expect.

I just finished assembling a 600 in .308 from parts. Barreled receiver with trigger mechanism from an auction; stock (nice one) from CGN; bolt (Model 7), magazine assembly from my tickle trunk. Trigger guard robbed from another 600; replaced that one with a steel unit. Not cheap, but significntly less than a factory rifle would bring. Scope is being mounted this weekend. Burris Compact 2-7.
I have not installed swivel studs yet. I'm also going to install a recoil pad with a shorter length of pull.
IMG_1289.jpg
 

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