Barely visible primer strikes

Sorry, I looked and agree that firing pin tip looks good to me as well.

If your firing pin doesn't strike dead center, you can use one of the fired cases to test your strike point without fear of harming the firing pin tip.

It should show two distinct strike marks, one from the original firing strike and another from your test.

Got a chance to fire a few rounds today.

Whoever said that the bolt shroud needed an extra turn is the winner. That was the problem!

Many thanks to everyone, I doubt I would of figured this out on my own.

So any special tips on trying to screw/unscrew the bolt shroud? I seem to be missing a hand or two to be able to perform this without any problems.

I did take a metal sheet piece to be able to pull on the cocking shear. Also, I did make myself a dowel with a hole in it, so I can stick the firing pin in it and push down for final dissassembly.

David
 
So any special tips on trying to screw/unscrew the bolt shroud? I seem to be missing a hand or two to be able to perform this without any problems.

I can't see from your photos, but the cocking piece should have a little hole in it about halfway back from the sear surface. The purpose of that hole is to insert a pin or finishing nail when the bolt is cocked and in the rifle. Then when you take the bolt out, you can unscrew the shroud with no problem.
 
That small cross hole is a feature on many commercial Mauser cocking pieces with the flat bottom. Many of the military cocking pieces with the double "V" slope on the bottom won't have that. For the flat bottom type, there is a couple finishing nails laying on my shelf to use on them. For the military type, is probably several ways - I have a length of shoe lace - kind of like a "figure eight" - one loop goes around my wrist and other smaller loop slips over the face of the cocking piece - that lets me pull back with my arm and leaves my fingers free to manipulate the shroud - no doubt others have different ways to do that.

On a P-14 or M1917, you will find they have a "hook" on very rear end of that cocking piece - makes it even easier to disassemble that firing pin assembly - I use a split key ring around a finger knuckle to grab that hook to pull back and unscrew. I think a WWI soldier could use a boot lace or similar. That, and the design for single round feed, are two of the few true improvements that I have come across over the 1898 Mauser design - most all other "improvements" give up some function or are cheaper to produce - usually giving up some function.

Once the innards of the bolt are unscrewed, I usually place the firing pin vertical in my wood worker vise - and clamp the lower (forward) 1 1/2" or 2" (3 to 5 cm) of it. One hand pushes the bolt shroud straight down to compress the main spring, and the other hand gives that cocking piece a quarter turn to release it from the firing pin notches. Seems to be about the same for various m95, m96, m98 Mausers and P-14 and M1917 Enfield rifles.
 
OP,
to reference a RH bolt from a Remington-
Bolt in your Left hand
Handle facing your nine o'clock position.
Take a small pocket screw driver in your Right hand.
Hook the rear tab of the striker w/ the screw driver shank held w/ the middle & ring finger of your Right hand.
Use your Thumb as the fulcrum/lever to hold the firing pin/striker to allow rotating over the firing pin cocking cam in the aft end of the bolt body
FIVE 360 rotations will remove or re-install the firing pin assy.

No boot lacing winding required.

A Bench vice to clamp the striker in while pulling on the bolt body to insert a USD DIME/10 cent piece in the slot in the Right Hand side of the cocking piece will hold the firing pin back to allow dis/re assembly also.

700 strikers do NOT have the military hole....788's have the 1/16" pin hole to keep the firing pin assy cocked for dis/re assembly.
 
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