SHE'S OFF re stuck magazine tube on old Mossberg 500

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Update: I was able to get the mag tube off! Appreciate everyone who chimed-in. So, I remembered I'd made some wood blocks for installing a muzzle brake years ago. Put them in the bench vice=worked perfectly. I determined the threaded nut at the muzzle end of the MT wasn't more than about 1/2" long, so, not enough clamping pressure on that nub if I only had it in that far in the blocks. Thinking there would be no risk to the tube at all if that insert was longer. Wondered if a little pressure spread out over more length might do the job? Bit of heat/bit of pressure/attempt to unscrew the from the tube=it slipped in the blocks. More clamping pressure/higher heat=same result. Just kept increasing both very gradually and on each go, applied a little pressure in the direction that would tighten the hold, THEN attempted to unscrew it. On about the 5th attempt, she budged.

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Time to reveal it's a .410! lol Glad you helped now? :)

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Can't say for sure, but wondering if this gob of goo is Loctite?

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So, time to continue the deep clean on the rest of the gun, sticky old oil is so satisfying to deal with. Puts up a bit of a fight every time, but almost always lets you win. lol


Hey guys-working on resurrecting a very neglected old Mossberg 500. I'd say a "time capsule" gun, but not in terms of it's condition..more the original oil throughout literally gluing the internals of this shotgun together. lol After removing the trigger group and bolt carrier, the bolt literally stuck to the ceiling of the receiver. Could be the grass/debris/sticky oil inside holding it there too.

Old oil is easy to deal with and things are coming along beautifully. The gun actually seemed to cycle OK before I opened it up, taking this as a sign that she'll be buttery-smooth when cleaned and oiled properly. Either way, the mag tube has to come off.

Based on a few things, I think this old girl was put away wet at least a few times..so I've done a few rounds of penetrating oil and the mag tube certainly won't budge by hand pressure alone. Didn't expect it to. So, what's best approach for attempt #2?

I don't own a strap clamp but getting one after work today. Would be great if that did it, as I'm not super keen on applying heat anywhere near this glossy old aluminum receiver. I have a heat gun and propane torches, but both are last resorts.

Any input before I hit it with the strap clamp(s)?

thanks in advance
 
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I don't know how the tube is fixed to the receiver, there are a few way tubes are fixed to receivers... threads are one way, inserts on the tube where it joins the action... where the tube needs to be driven into the action for the inserts to be removed and the tube withdrawn is another way, silver solder when the action and tube are steel is another way.

Find a schematic of this model somewhere and find out how the tube is attached.

But why does the magazine tube have to come off? What made you decide that?
 
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Find a schematic of this model somewhere and find out how the tube is attached.

But why does the magazine tube have to come off? What made you decide that?

Based on the neglect this gun appears to have endured over the course of it's life, I don't want to assume the follower will behave as it should when I'm hours away in the bush up north not shooting grouse. lol Been shooting 870s for decades so maintaining a magazine tube is simple. This 500 (all of them?) have a threaded fitting at the muzzle end of the magazine tube requiring removal if you want to pull the follower/clean etc. The magazine tube is steel, and threaded into the receiver=I can just see the ends of the threads where it exits the receiver.

It's not something that will come on/off during normal cleaning going forward, but in the event I EVER have to take it off I'd rather get it unstuck now and reinstalled with (possibly) some grease to prevent it seizing. Sort of thinking about it like I do seized choke tubes?
 
I have had success with putting the receiver with magazine tube attached in the oven. Just keep an eye on it and see if it starts to smoke at the connection when it does take it out and secure the receiver then twist off the magazine. This has worked on a few 500's that I have had some newer some older and neglected.
 
You should probably make an snug fitting insert to prevent the magazine tube from distorting or collapsing when you clamp on it to unscrew it from the action. I don't know if a Loctite was used on the threads but magazine tubes can be threaded quite tight. If it seems too tight heat the junction with a propane torch with most of the torch on the tube...

I thought the follower, etc went out the front like an 870..? mag removal not necessary.
 
Thanks for the input guys, very much appreciated!

I have had success with putting the receiver with magazine tube attached in the oven. Just keep an eye on it and see if it starts to smoke at the connection when it does take it out and secure the receiver then twist off the magazine. This has worked on a few 500's that I have had some newer some older and neglected.

Thanks jimip-I'll keep that in mind! Going to try a heat gun first, oven failing that. Torch would be the last resort for sure-not even sure I would to be honest.

You should probably make an snug fitting insert to prevent the magazine tube from distorting or collapsing when you clamp on it to unscrew it from the action. I don't know if a Loctite was used on the threads but magazine tubes can be threaded quite tight. If it seems too tight heat the junction with a propane torch with most of the torch on the tube...

I thought the follower, etc went out the front like an 870..? mag removal not necessary.

Doesn't appear to guntech, there is a fixed/threaded fitting @ the muzzle end of the mag tube. The machine screw on the barrel is captive, this threaded fitting is what holds the barrel on once assembled.
 
You should probably make an snug fitting insert to prevent the magazine tube from distorting or collapsing when you clamp on it to unscrew it from the action. I don't know if a Loctite was used on the threads but magazine tubes can be threaded quite tight. If it seems too tight heat the junction with a propane torch with most of the torch on the tube...

I thought the follower, etc went out the front like an 870..? mag removal not necessary.

Not on a 500. Magazine tube is fixed length cause the end is female threaded for the lug screw which is fixed to the barrel.

For OP, I took the tube off a brand new maverick 88, and it was blue locked in place, at this point if you've tried good penetrating oil, light heat and a good strap are basically the only other option. I used shop towels and vise grips on my mav since I didn't care about the old tube.
 
I would assume since the tube needs to be removed to access the follower and spring and plug (if any) that it would not be Loctited in place... but try it... and if too tight heat it up... tubes are easily crushed/distorted.
 
Not on a 500. Magazine tube is fixed length cause the end is female threaded for the lug screw which is fixed to the barrel.

For OP, I took the tube off a brand new maverick 88, and it was blue locked in place, at this point if you've tried good penetrating oil, light heat and a good strap are basically the only other option. I used shop towels and vise grips on my mav since I didn't care about the old tube.

Thanks Shmoo-^that's now the plan. I'll update with my findings!

I would assume since the tube needs to be removed to access the follower and spring and plug (if any) that it would not be Loctited in place... but try it... and if too tight heat it up... tubes are easily crushed/distorted.

^thanks guntech-input like this (and from others) really make a huge difference to me, helps bolster the confidence/confirm my plan.
 
Mag tube is screwed in, usually without loctite. As Guntech advised make sure you use a mandrel inside if you are using a strap wrench or it will crush the tube.
We use a special wrench that fits perfectly around the tubes.

Casey
 
A trick that was in the Brownells gunkinks books was to use a piece of rope and a bar to remove barrels. The rope was tied to the bar placed beside the barrel near the action and the rope wrapped around the barrel toward the muzzle. Holding the end of the rope at the muzzle the bar was turned around the barrel and as the rope got tighter it turned the barrel. I have used this method at work to remove pvc syphon tubes from steel valve bodies in commercial kitchen fire extinguisher systems without marring the tube. The fire extinguisher chemical when it dries forms crystals that act like thread-loc.
If you take a large socket wrench over the tube and put a smooth friction-free liner between them, then place a nylon cargo strap over the wrench and wrap both ends of the strap towards the muzzle end, you could apply a lot of turning torque without crushing the tube. The liner would be to prevent the wrench flats from marring the tube. As to what to use as a liner ideally it would be a straight smooth tube like a close fitting piece of pipe. You must hold the ends of the strap from slipping while turning the wrench but it works the same as a rope around a winch, the turning friction is distributed along the length of the strap and it is easy enough to hold.
 
My vise jaws are 3/8" thick rubber conveyor belt material, fairly hard but soft enough to conform and grip well. I have always put the mag tube in the vise close to the joint, just tight enough to grip, no need to tighten so much you cause damage, slippage is ok. Position the receiver with the bottom on top and and a bit away from you (my vise is on my left). Warm up the receiver/tube joint with a heat gun, warm not hot. Use your hands and grasp the receiver at the joint and apply pressure to unscrew, once the "slack" is out sharply rotate the receiver to unscrew. I have used this method for many 500's and never had damage.

A set of blocks could be built with epoxy or bedding compound.
 
I saw some Youtube whereby they show that some 500 mag tube are installed with Red Loctite, so some form of heating is needed to remove the mag tube.
 
Maybe use a hair dryer ? Those can get quite warm - too hot to touch the 'muzzle' of 'em. I've released loctite with one.
 
You're not gonna hurt the aluminum receiver with a heat gun. I'd stay away from the propane torch, but the heat gun is probably the answer, along with something that grips the tube a bit better.
 
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