Tips for cleaning black powder residue from breechloader shotgun barrels

Id be happy to help with the black powder/bismuth loads..ive found a way to improve patterns
With lead and I'm sure would work with bismuth.
Also you will find Pyrodex RS select a stouter load in a 12 or 16 with fiber wads..perfectly safe to use in old guns... I have an army & navy sxs here once owned by London Shooter...i do find my loadings improved with it after i re thought the loads out...one thing... Velocity... If your 1100fps and under...you'll be limited to 25/30 yards now....if you reduce to 1oz..but keep powder charge same...more speed....however...chokes matter. Most my Damascus guns are 1 bore not choked..one mod...with respect to pressures these guns can be useful with bismuth but range is not like a modern loaded 12g waterfowl load.. Fiber wads tend to bliw patterns but.....i have a little trick...

I have been wondering about sawdust as a cushion wad. Put your nitro card on the powder take a measured amount of sawdust(possibly oiled) then a couple over shot cards on top of the saw dust above that load like normal.
 
I use paper hulls and an old rill crimper.. The tightness of the load in the hull ( compression ) is essential to get a gd reliable full burn of the propellant to achieve
Speed needed.. Ive used fiber and felt wads..have to say i never thought of sawdust. But... Theres more to it. Each gun is diff..1 load will not perform the same in my gun..as in others...patterning and adj loads is part of the fun.
 
So my good friend Michael had me over for a duck hunt to his secret spot. And it was a really good spot. And next September we're going to go there with some proven loads and smoke some birds old school, just like was supposed to happen this year. We came home with a nice wood duck for our efforts and then our buddy James (Canvasback) had us over for gun talk and fall-off-the-bone-ribs.
Good times! Thanks Mike and James.
 
Basically B-Noser nailed it except that I have found I can scrub a bit more crud out using a bronze bristle cleaning brush after a couple of buckets of warm-to-the-touch water with or without the dish soap. Wipe dry immediately with patches (old denim soaks up lots of water) then a shot of water-displacer like WD40, then a patch with 3-in-one oil. Take care to dry and lube the extractors and there tunnel too. Then check back in a week or so. One other important thing: after the first cleaning stand the gun or just the barrels muzzle-down for a few days to ensure oil or any other residual liquid does not get into the firing mechanism via the firing pin holes.

It is common practice with long-range BP riflemen to immediately dump their fired brass cartridges into a container of water with a bit of vinegar and/or dish soap to minimize brass corrosion.

My pet load for Sask mallards is a 12 ga Federal paper hull, 3 1/4 drams of FFG or Pyrodex RS (makes smoke but cheaper and easier to obtain) then a .125 over-powder card wad and 5/16 fiber filler wad under 1 1/4 z of Bi #4 shot. Star crimp. For brass cartridges you should be using wads one ga larger: i.e.; 11 ga wads in brass 12 ga cases to get a proper gas seal. A bit of nail polish will secure the over-shot wad in your brass reloads so no need to crimp the brass case.
 
Lots of good info, thanks guys.
Yah I panicked a bit when my beautiful restored barrels turned into filthy, soot-caked chimney pipes.
Yes Hunterod will pm you and reach out, cheers and thanks.

Funny thing Ol’Flinter another observation after shooting the bp was that it must be that much harder to shoot the second bird of a skeet pair through the cloud of smoke! I know this is your department....

And absolutely John, back to the drawing board with plans for next year.
Tried a 2day buttermilk soak on the bird, then oven roasted with some apple/celery/onion in the cavity and dusted with salt and 5 spice.
Turned out quite nice. Gotta be careful with that 5 spice a little goes a long way. Buttermilk trick worked pretty good and mellowed the flavour right out. Woodies are good eating to begin with anyways.
 
Not much to add as Blue nose pretty much nailed it (Except I follow up with fluid film). However, I will add that, cold - Luke warm water is all you need. You can buy solvents or add soap or whatever and that won't hurt but you won't gain anything over straight water except a cost. I have been shooting BP since the early '80's and my Dad (now deceased) since the early 70's. Have tried many "trick" cleaning solutions and nothing we have tried has outperformed plain water. I have limited experience with BP cartridge, in fact only maybe a few hundred rounds of 12GA but when I was loading those, I would roll the edges of the fibre wads in liquid bear grease (same as I do for my ML shotguns) to help each subsequent shot to clean some of the soot from the previous shot. It is my belief that if you load your fibre wads dry, residue buildup will get much worse and may even get to the point of increasing pressures after several shots. I also loaded my shot shells similarly to my ML shotguns, leaning towards square loads (equal powder/shot by volume). While I have a bag of paper hulls around here somewhere I have never loaded them. I just loaded plastic hulls I got from a trap shooter friend. I cut the star crimp off and loaded them with a roll crimper. Yes they get small holes melted in them but this does not contaminate the chambers in any way and I just shoot them once and throw them away. Interestingly, (to me) of the several hundred shells loaded this way (straight from the trap range to my loading bench ) only a small handful would not fit the chambers of the guns that I was shooting them from. Probably should have checked the fit before loading them. In case anyone is interested, after determine the length of hull for the load I was using and the roll crimp, I cut a piece of electrical conduit too the appropriate length as a gauge, them would slip it over the new-to-me hulls and cut them off across the conduit pipe with a knife to achieve a square mouth of consistent length.
 
Hi,
I've shot quite a few rounds of skeet with Black powder, so here is what I've found works for me.
First if you load your own shells avoid plastic wads, black powder melts the plastic to the barrels, hot water and a brush will be needed to remove it in my experience.
Also if you are loading your own shells use lubed wads or a bit of lube in with the shot, to keep the fowling soft.
For cleaning I use ballistol and water mix (moose milk) it cuts through the black powder fowling and does not promote rusting.
When the moose milk cleaning patches come clean, I run a few dry patches through to dry the bore, and finish with a patch of straight ballistol.
Works for me,
I used the hot water/soap clean in the past and got flash rust, not enough to be a problem but I just don't like any rust on my guns, and hot water is hard to find at the range.
 
I use paper hulls and an old rill crimper.. The tightness of the load in the hull ( compression ) is essential to get a gd reliable full burn of the propellant to achieve
Speed needed.. Ive used fiber and felt wads..have to say i never thought of sawdust. But... Theres more to it. Each gun is diff..1 load will not perform the same in my gun..as in others...patterning and adj loads is part of the fun.

My thought is the sawdust breaks up after leaving the muzzle instead of blowing holes through the pattern.
 
I have never had an issue for many years shooting 90 grains of FFG and 1 1/4 oz of #4 Bismuth on decoyed ducks and geese, although some years I have used #2.
This is in my 12 gauge Westley Richards.
I just finished a hunt down south for pheasants, shooting 75 grains of FFG and 1 OZ of shot on my first barrel, and 90 grains of FFG and 1 1/4 oz of shot on the second.
Shot size is # 6nickel plated.
My son was using 80 grains and 1oz in his 14 gauge muzzle loader .
Both guns flatten birds over our spaniel and Small Munsterlander:d
Cat
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I use warm tap water. Just sit the end of the barrels in the sink and flush with water and run a bore mop through from the breech till it’s clean. Wipe dry oil and done. No need to over complicate things.
 
Lots of great tips, and generally versions of the same, for both cleaning and loads, which is good.
For cleaning, give’em a wet scrub and clean ‘em out, dry any water, apply some protective oil....and maybe check back in a little while just to be sure. Will keep this mind and shoot the bp again.

iron cat - that looks like a great day !
There’s a spaniel field trial/event that I’m going to check out next weekend.
I look forward to seeing the dogs working
 
I use warm tap water. Just sit the end of the barrels in the sink and flush with water and run a bore mop through from the breech till it’s clean. Wipe dry oil and done. No need to over complicate things.

I'm about the same way, I quit using hot water years ago, just cold water and soap and/ or Ballistol .
Dry it throughly then G96 or Ballistol .
Cat
 
Nah she’s pretty cool about it all. Didn’t I tell you at the last rendezvous, she’s the one who encourages me buying collecting and using these irons. Couldn’t ask for a better partner.
 
Recently I did a duck hunt with a friend and we shot black powder loaded brass hulls with bismuth in our sxs’s (his an 1880’s damascus gun and mine an 1890’s steel gun).
Having never seen it before I was blown away by the amount of residue build up after some shooting.
.....I imagine that a round of skeet would be a mess.
It gave me an appreciation for what ‘pit-free’ and ‘in-proof’ barrels on guns of this vintage really means, and the effort required to keep them that way.

Get yourself a little handheld spray bottle. Add water and a little dish soap. When you are shooting the gun, every couple of shots, spritz a co0uple of times down the barrel from the breech end. This will help keep the fouling soft and let it be blown out the muzzle. It also helps to cool the barrels. Rapid fire with BP imparts a considerable amount of heat into the steel.
 
Get yourself a little handheld spray bottle. Add water and a little dish soap. When you are shooting the gun, every couple of shots, spritz a co0uple of times down the barrel from the breech end. This will help keep the fouling soft and let it be blown out the muzzle. It also helps to cool the barrels. Rapid fire with BP imparts a considerable amount of heat into the steel.

Interesting , ive done this with Muzzleloaders but never with a cartridge shotgun, but likely be helpful
If your getting heavy foulings, what type of shotgun
Were you using? Was it a Damascus gun or fluid steel u were just shooting BP through. Yes they build up some heat.
 
Interesting , ive done this with Muzzleloaders but never with a cartridge shotgun, but likely be helpful
If your getting heavy foulings, what type of shotgun
Were you using? Was it a Damascus gun or fluid steel u were just shooting BP through. Yes they build up some heat.

Blackpowder is blackpowder. It alls fouls the same.
 
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