Hey, Leadheads! Don't sweat the primer shortage.

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For decades, I've been promiscuous in using pistol primers in rifles and vice versa, depending on what was on hand, in cast bullet loads.
With the acute shortage of large rifle primers, and the resultant scalping by some people, it's time to consider using pistol primers more.

While most of us make up modest cast bullet loads, powder coating has opened up the door to more vigourous loadings.
I've hit over 2400 f/s with no fouling and fairly good accuracy so I'm interested in seeing if there are any limitations with pistol primers.

The following photos show what's been happening.
The cases on the left were fired 38 gr. of an H4350 generic and gave good accuracy at 50 yards.
The primer indents were kind of mushy, indicating a fairly low pressure load.

The cases on the right were loaded with 41 gr. of Ball C2. Suggested start load with jacketed bullets is 44 gr. with max at 47.5 gr.
So the primer indents were more clearly defined, indicating there was more pressure. There was no indication of brass flow around the firing pin hole which would signify possible dangerous high pressure.
Anyhow, that load really wasn't too pleasant to shoot from a bench, so that could be my personal upper limit. I broke my collarbone six years back and it now has a dogleg in it, so I'm more aware of recoil.

On learning about the new Garmin chronograph, I quickly ordered one and sold my Labradar at a bargain price. However, Garmin has a shipping date 5 to 8 weeks away, and we'll have lots of snow on the range when it arrives, so chronographing might have to wait until spring.
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Very interesting, i still have 800 cci LR, doubt i will shoot that many in my lifetime, if i reloaded 50 per year, ill be 79 before they are gone. Wonder if there would be a noticeable difference in magnum primers, better or worse.
 
Interesting indeed! I have scads of pistol primers, large and small. My pet project for this winter will be using shotgun primers in Berdan cases. I still have lots of rifle primers for boxer brass, but it kills me not being able to re-use some of the nice FNM brass in 8x57. I don’t chase the high velocity dream, mostly cast low power loads, so I can use up some of the powder such as 700X, Unique, etc.

I found a thread on here a while back about drilling out Berdan brass using a “C” letter bit to be able to use shotgun primers. Works fine, but I find I’ll need to countersink the primers a wee bit to be able to close the bolt properly. Working on that. I finally set up my floor drill press and bought a little cross sliding vise to mount on it. I’ve dragged my gunner buddy Deaner in on this project, as he has more experience with lathes, etc. Also, I can blame him if he doesn’t come up with a good way to hold a casing straight and tight enough to countersink a wee ring for the shotgun primer to sit flush. ��
 
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Regarding magnum primers, I've heard different stories.
One says that they have a hotter charge to ignite slower burning powder more reliably, and the other says that they have a harder cup to withstand the higher pressures better.

It looks like we've opened a fresh can of worms, Greg.
 
It's easy to use large pistol primers in rifle cases, but not the other way around - large rifle primers in pistol cases. The large rifle primers are (IIRC ~ 0.005") taller than pistol primers and as a result require a deeper primer pocket.

Sounds like a good alternative for some cast bullet loads!
 
I have been swapping small pistol and small rifle for about 2 yrs now in 9mm and .223. Virtually zero change in performance. I did come across some magnum small pistol primers (2000) for a great deal. My standard 9mm load is 3.5gr of Vitrovori 3N37 using cast 124g (Lee mold) lead (wheel weights) and powder coating with Princess auto blue powder coat 1035fps from Ruger PC9, 940FPS from glock. I cast 55gr Lead in 223 with same powder coat and pushing out of my Savage Axis I at 2734fps with zero leading. They are good enough to plink and consistent groups of 4" at 100M, sure makes going to back yard range more fun and cost effective.
 
Yesterday, I fired 60 rounds of reduced load 303 British primed with Winchester Large Pistol Primers.

No issues at all, and very accurate.
 
kjohn said:
Interesting indeed! I have scads of pistol primers, large and small. My pet project for this winter will be using shotgun primers in Berdan cases. I still have lots of rifle primers for boxer brass, but it kills me not being able to re-use some of the nice FNM brass in 8x57. I don’t chase the high velocity dream, mostly cast low power loads, so I can use up some of the powder such as 700X, Unique, etc.

I found a thread on here a while back about drilling out Berdan brass using a “C” letter bit to be able to use shotgun primers. Works fine, but I find I’ll need to countersink the primers a wee bit to be able to close the bolt properly. Working on that. I finally set up my floor drill press and bought a little cross sliding vise to mount on it. I’ve dragged my gunner buddy Deaner in on this project, as he has more experience with lathes, etc. Also, I can blame him if he doesn’t come up with a good way to hold a casing straight and tight enough to countersink a wee ring for the shotgun primer to sit flush. ��
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What about if you drilled a hole a little larger than the case in a block of very hard wood . then cut it in half . then glue say some inner tube from a bicycle in both sides to keep the brass case from moving and drill a hole through both sides of the blocks and put small bolts with nuts on . use the block for a clamp to hold the brass case and place this in a vice on your drill press . Just thought of this . morning coffee .
 
cement head said:
What about if you drilled a hole a little larger than the case in a block of very hard wood . then cut it in half . then glue say some inner tube from a bicycle in both sides to keep the brass case from moving and drill a hole through both sides of the blocks and put small bolts with nuts on . use the block for a clamp to hold the brass case and place this in a vice on your drill press . Just thought of this . morning coffee .
Click to expand...

That's along the line my research and development manager (Dean) has suggested. He's busy this week, so I am patiently waiting to confer with him on that very idea. Holding it tight and square for the countersinking operation is a must. I have hand bombed a few, but it is nearly impossible to get a true sink done. I have used a larger bit, but it will usually drill off to one side.
 
were I doing a lot as you have planned I would drill a piece of 1x4 to the appropriate size about 1.5" from end of board then slot end of board from hole to end. now drill a bolt hole through the 4" width of the board for a wing nut bolt to pinch the hole around the case.

I wouldnt use a common tapered drill bit to cut the recess, rather a 4-flute end mill (prob under $20 at any store that sells cutting tools), it will cut a flater more perfect countersink with less grabbing of the cutter lips. For this light cutting operation it can be used & chucked in a common drill press chuck.
 
fingers284 said:
were I doing a lot as you have planned I would drill a piece of 1x4 to the appropriate size about 1.5" from end of board then slot end of board from hole to end. now drill a bolt hole through the 4" width of the board for a wing nut bolt to pinch the hole around the case.

I wouldnt use a common tapered drill bit to cut the recess, rather a 4-flute end mill (prob under $20 at any store that sells cutting tools), it will cut a flater more perfect countersink with less grabbing of the cutter lips. For this light cutting operation it can be used & chucked in a common drill press chuck.
Click to expand...

I do have an end mill bit of the appropriate size, but until I come up with the right "tool" for clamping the brass, it is also impossible to countersink with. We are getting steam up this week, so production will be happening soon.
 
I re work all my 7.5x55 brass, I have a lathe so it a bit easier. I knock out old primer use a drill bit the just fits inside berdan primer side walls depending on brand of berdan, inside the pocket just to remove to anvil and start a center boxer hole. then use a appropriate bit to drill flash hole, where the anvil was. Next use a #2 dill bit to resize pocket up to .221. The #2 bit is touched to a grinding wheel so that its flat on the bottom. Use an old 22lr case seat in hole next use cut off wheel and cut flush. use rcbs primer pocket tool to swag 22 to correct size. Its fairly easy if you use drill bit stops.
 
I've had some success by drilling an old Hockey puck and holding (squeezing very slightly) in a vise to keep brass from turning.
 
geotndtwine said:
I re work all my 7.5x55 brass, I have a lathe so it a bit easier. I knock out old primer use a drill bit the just fits inside berdan primer side walls depending on brand of berdan, inside the pocket just to remove to anvil and start a center boxer hole. then use a appropriate bit to drill flash hole, where the anvil was. Next use a #2 dill bit to resize pocket up to .221. The #2 bit is touched to a grinding wheel so that its flat on the bottom. Use an old 22lr case seat in hole next use cut off wheel and cut flush. use rcbs primer pocket tool to swag 22 to correct size. Its fairly easy if you use drill bit stops.
Click to expand...

are you doing this so you can use boxer primers?
 
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