Stepping up to a heavier 5.56 bullet? Choices? Choices?

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The cheap 5.56 (55gr) is often quoted as not heavy enough/optimal for many rifles. Heavier bullet needed.

BUT: when you step up to 62gr. its all M855 steel core ammo, and not useable in most ranges.

What is a good choice for heavier grain 5.56mm that won't break the bank???????

- Bewildered by Inflation
 
Are you looking for loaded ammo, or bullets to load?

It's times like these that reloading saves you a pile of money. For heavier bullet commercial .223 you're looking at match ammo, which is going to be multiples of the cost of bulk .223/5.56.

Even harder still if you actually want 5.56 vs .223. 5.56 is the NATO designation, and there aren't really any lead core FMJ 5.56 designations, I don't think?

And why do you think 55grain isn't optimal for many rifles? It's by far the most common; outside of the super fast twists designed for heavier bullets, the 55gr works fine in the overwhelming majority of guns. It has literally been the standard for 60+ years, why would most guns be set up to run something else?
 
Gotta get your Google-Fu going. I found this in 3-minutes - Tenda - https://www.gotenda.com/product/federal-ae-223rem-62gr-tactical-fmj-bt-case-of-500/
Not too much left on Tenda for 'cheap' but it was better a couple weeks ago. They have a bit of 'Green Tip' left but that's "Steel-TIP" so may be banned at some ranges. Does your range magnet-test your ammo?
That FAKE 'ammo shut-down' caused lots of ammo to dry up. I'd wait for Black Friday and/Or shop local GP adverts.
PS - I have a Ruger American in .223 with 1:8 and it does fine from 55g to 77g. I got a bunch of MFS and Barnaul 62g-SP before C hit, cost ca $10/box - HA!
 
Good find ID... A bit pricey for serious 'practice' but likely quite accurate. I've got some of the heavier (73g + 77g @ $30+) for targets, but i find the 55-62g quite accurate too. I can get cloverleafs with 62g SP Barnaul, which was a lot cheaper ($10-15/box) when it was available. I do also with 55g FMJ by PMC or PPU.
OP, it all depends on what you want to do and How Much you plan to shoot. (or spend)
 
The heavier bullets might be more stable if for outdoors targets in a windy condition. They'd run slower so a bit less likely to be affected by winds. Most of the 62+ .223/5.56 bullets I've seen are HP, which is said to be a bit more aerodynamic (No idea, personally).
 
The heavier bullets might be more stable if for outdoors targets in a windy condition. They'd run slower so a bit less likely to be affected by winds. Most of the 62+ .223/5.56 bullets I've seen are HP, which is said to be a bit more aerodynamic (No idea, personally).

Many match bullets are open tip, slight hollow point. Gotta be some kinda reason or that.
 
No expert at this...but messed around years ago. Built a sweet 22cal 22-250 1:7 twist using 80gr bergers (moly powdered and not)...I can't remember the FPS of the loads, but they were primer flattening/cratering (not recommended). Shot like a laser on the 100/200/300...looked silly though...there's a lot of bullet sticking out from the case...LOL. Tried to blow up some of the lighter 22 varmint weight bullets by putting them through there really hot but never did get that done.

Generally...there's recommendations for matching bullet weight to twist rate to velocity. IIRC...it's mostly to do with twist rate:weight. There's a practical/workable range for each of the various twist rates.

Berger has this online calculator that might help.
https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/

Here's an article for 22-250...take it as you will. Might be helpful in conceptualizing it vs. my crappy writing.
https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/lodge/22-250-twist-rate-chart/
 
(All old memory sort of stuff)

I think that it was more to do with how consistently they could make the tail end of the bullet (vs a FMJ where the tip is smooth but the base is open) and thus consistency with grouping. Any inconsistencies with the core or the forming of the tip were up front which was a better compromise than having the variations at the back. Ballistic tips were supposed to solve all that but there were weight deviations...so lesser of two evils and better off leaving it out (I'm sure that they're much better now). I do remember that with some super primo long range/BR bullets that the very tip (tiny hole where all the edges come together) was often not "perfect". I used to file them sometimes...but probably not necessary at all (more my OCD).
 
The heavier bullets might be more stable if for outdoors targets in a windy condition. They'd run slower so a bit less likely to be affected by winds. Most of the 62+ .223/5.56 bullets I've seen are HP, which is said to be a bit more aerodynamic (No idea, personally).

Not really sure where to start with all this .......... The only bit you got right was the last three words.

Projectile stability and wind have no relation to each other ... none whatsoever.

Slower projectile velocity equals more time for the wind to take effect and thus more affected by wind.

A HP is not more aerodynamic than a FMJ or polycarbonate tipped bullet.
 
I do remember that with some super primo long range/BR bullets that the very tip (tiny hole where all the edges come together) was often not "perfect". I used to file them sometimes...but probably not necessary at all (more my OCD).

Tip inconsistencies are irrelevant because the spinning bullet averages any inconsistencies out over 360 degrees.

Filing bullets is a terrible idea because it alters the weight in an inconsistent manner.
 
Scotty454, you got me itchin' so I looked into it. I had read somewhere that the OTM 'opening' gave an aerodynamic factor, but it seems it's due to construction. The lead is 'poured' into the jacket (closed base) then the tip is at least partially closed (some fully close it), giving a more homogeneous lead core for 'balanced' rotation. (just my over-simplification). https://ammo.com/bullet-type/open-tip-match
 
OTM style bullets, the lead is not poured in. A lead wire of the correct diameter is cut to length and inserted into a tubular jacket. The jacket is then swaged into the final shape of the bullet, around the lead wire core. The point of the OTM design is to keep the weight distribution of the bullet further back for flight stability, which translates to accuracy. The font portion of the nose is actually hollow under the open tip.

open3.jpg
 
Scotty454, you got me itchin' so I looked into it. I had read somewhere that the OTM 'opening' gave an aerodynamic factor, but it seems it's due to construction. The lead is 'poured' into the jacket (closed base) then the tip is at least partially closed (some fully close it), giving a more homogeneous lead core for 'balanced' rotation. (just my over-simplification). https://ammo.com/bullet-type/open-tip-match

Hm, if I would have had to guess, I'd have guessed something like the open tip creates a high pressure bubble in front of the bullet, that would promote laminar flow/reduce turbulence over the bullet. Kinda like an airfoil.

But I would have guessed wrong, apparently. Lol
 
The cheap 5.56 (55gr) is often quoted as not heavy enough/optimal for many rifles. Heavier bullet needed.

BUT: when you step up to 62gr. its all M855 steel core ammo, and not useable in most ranges.

What is a good choice for heavier grain 5.56mm that won't break the bank???????

- Bewildered by Inflation

There are so many variables that it is really difficult to answer your questions without knowing what they actually are.
A 1:7 twist is about he quickest twist you'll find on a commercially available rifle, and you are unlikely to encounter anything with a slower twist than 1:12.
Both will stabilize .223/5.56 55gr. bullet no problem, and it is unlikely that you'd have problems with the 7 twist 'over spinning' such a bullet so as to induce jacket separation.

What are you trying to accomplish?
 
The cheap 5.56 (55gr) is often quoted as not heavy enough/optimal for many rifles. Heavier bullet needed.

BUT: when you step up to 62gr. its all M855 steel core ammo, and not useable in most ranges.

What is a good choice for heavier grain 5.56mm that won't break the bank???????

- Bewildered by Inflation

Depends on your twist rate. If you have a 1:8 or faster, the sky's the limit basically. If you're at 1:12, you're going to top out around 60ish grains (and really, 50-55 is ideal). For 1:10, you might be able to push it to 70 - results vary barrel to barrel.
 
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