Barrel??

Jamie

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I think I might start th paper work on getting a Krieger barrel.in 6.5mm 1/8 or 1/8.5 twist :D(thinking of a 260 build:dancingbanana:)

I want a heavy flutted barrel(not to heavy) but what number weight,length, and SS or CM?


Jamie
 
Why dont you contact Ron Smith in Alberta he is definately one in the top 5 rifle barrel makers in Canada he can do gain twist as well ,McPhee in BC and Guillard in Sask ,McLeenon in Ont. I am pretty sure they can build you what you need.

Note: I may have spelt the individuals names wrong
 
Ron Smith is one of only 4 barrel makers in Canada and the only one other than McPhee that cut rifles; his barrels are not lapped nor are they cryo treated. As for accuracy, well I have seen some damned fine Smith Barrels. McPhee is 30 cal only. Ted Gaillard makes excellent button rifled barrels, as good as any you will find.
 
Ron Smith is one of only 4 barrel makers in Canada and the only one other than McPhee that cut rifles; his barrels are not lapped nor are they cryo treated. As for accuracy, well I have seen some damned fine Smith Barrels. McPhee is 30 cal only. Ted Gaillard makes excellent button rifled barrels, as good as any you will find.

I wasn't aware that Ted Gaillard's barrels were button rifled!!:eek:
His reputation is excellent, for sure.

I have a few of Ron's barrels and like them a lot.
I shoot a lot of 6.5 caliber, and use Ron's gain twist for them.
I also have Shilens' , Douglas, McPhee and Kreiger barrels.
All are top quality.
Cat
 
I think I might start th paper work on getting a Krieger barrel.in 6.5mm 1/8 or 1/8.5 twist :D(thinking of a 260 build:dancingbanana:)

I want a heavy flutted barrel(not to heavy) but what number weight,length, and SS or CM?


Jamie

Depends what the rifle will be used for.
For heavy fluted maybe a #17 Kreiger which is their Varminter contour or MTU countour would be good as well. Both are around 7lbs before fluting.
Length depends on application
SS and CM both have their folowings but in Canada i wold say go with the CM since they stand up better to colder weather.
 
I have a Ron Smith barrel on my custom mauser (K & S arms) 6.5 X 55, 1 in 8 twist. Handles 140 and 142 gr match bullets fine. Yesterday I shot my best target ever (with any rifle) 300 meters, 5 shots, 0.92" average, works out to 0.32 moa. If I would have corrected my elevation by a 1/2" my average would have been 0.5" approx. or about 0.16 moa. I am hoping my wife can scan this target so I can post it.
 
SS and CM both have their folowings but in Canada i wold say go with the CM since they stand up better to colder weather.

The last time I was shooting in -40 degree weather I did not have any problems what ever with my stainless barrel. In 40 years I have never seen any evidence of any stainless firearm having a problem with steel due to cold temperatures.

How cold does it have to be?... and what problem do you think might occur?
 
I think I might start th paper work on getting a Krieger barrel.in 6.5mm 1/8 or 1/8.5 twist :D(thinking of a 260 build:dancingbanana:)

I want a heavy flutted barrel(not to heavy) but what number weight,length, and SS or CM?


Jamie

Why not call Adams Lake Rifle Barrels! Canadian dealer for Krieger barrels. He's on the site as Obtunded. I bet he could fix ya up.

What platform are you building the 260 on? Tell us all the juicy details:D


I went with an M40 contour Rock Creek barrel on my newest build. 22" finished length, 1-10 twist.

I've longed to build a 260, however, almost all the LR tactical shoots around here only allow police/military service calibers, thus, the 260's out. I'll have to stay invested in my 308 until things change.
 
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The last time I was shooting in -40 degree weather I did not have any problems what ever with my stainless barrel. In 40 years I have never seen any evidence of any stainless firearm having a problem with steel due to cold temperatures.

How cold does it have to be?... and what problem do you think might occur?

I am having a rifle built and speaking to the barel maker he mentioned this argument to me, he says i should go with a chrome moly if i plan on hunting or shooting alot in the winter.

I am just letting you know what i have heard.
I personally agree with you as i find stainless barrels more accurate and i dont do any hunting in the winter.
 
Thanks BC!

Guntech...

"...Carbon Steel: AISI 4140

The material used for most barrels is AISI 4140 Cr-Mo steel. This is one of the most excellent steels produced for engineering applications. This alloy steel contains by wt. %: C 0.4, Mn 1.0, Cr 1.0, and a number of other elements in lesser amounts. This steel, and its popular cousin 4340, are very popular because they have excellent properties and they are very hardenable. Hardenability is a measure of the depth of material that can be hardened during a quenching operation. High hardenability means more uniform strength and possibly faster throughput. This steel can be made fantastically strong (UTS 200 Ksi) and hard (Rockwell C 57). This material is used to make bearing balls, and if you think about it a barrel is basically a bearing, so this makes sense. This steel is easily machined, welded, otherwise handled.

One thing it also does well is oxidize. Carbon steel barrels must be protected from oxidation, since iron oxide (rust) does not form a stable protection layer on the surface like chromium. Typically barrels are "blued", which is the designation for any of the various mixtures of chemicals used to change the color of the steel to a dark blue/grey color. The blue color is actually oxidized iron, but it is Fe3O4, which is a stable layer much like the one that forms on chromium or nickel. Bluing is also done on drill bits, and that is a very high wear application. Blue, or multicolored sheen, can be seen on many heat treated parts such as hacksaw blades. This grows on the surface during heat treating. The color is dependent on the thickness, like a soap film. Bluing is not perfect, and standard Fe2O3 rust can also form on a blued firearm. Parkerizing is a phosphating process very similar to bluing. This finish is matte (black usually) and more durable than bluing, and is preferred by the military for these reasons. Also, since it does not leave a polished appearance, the parts can be beadblasted or sandblasted in preparation, increasing throughput. Incidentally, both of these processes can be done by a hobbiest with a large stainless tub full of boiling water and some chemicals which are easily purchased online.

Stainless Steel: AISI 416

Stainless steels have come a long way in this century, and 416 stainless is one of the best available. It can be heat treated to be very strong (200 ksi) and hard (>50 Rc). It is magnetic (some stainless materials are not, that is all beginning with a 3xx) and easily machined due to a high sulfur content. 416 SS contains (other than iron): <0.15% C, 12.0-14.0% Cr, <1.25% Mn, <1.0% Si, <0.06% P, >0.15% S. It is the high Cr content which makes it rust resistant, because the chromium forms a hard stable oxide which protects the metal. This layer is only a few molecules thick, so it is hardly detectable. The high machinability comes at a slight cost of oxidation resistance. The sulphur also prevents galling and binding which makes this material a good candidate for bearings.

Martensitic (400 series) SS has a marked ductile/brittle transition at cold temperatures. Actually, the jump in properties is right near room temperature, or below depending on what annealed/tempered state it is in. When the material is brittle, it is still strong, it is just more sensitive to cracking and fracture. This is most likely a problem for high impact applications rather than high strength applications. Wear is a complicated combination of strength and hardness considerations, and considering the high speed and shock of the load due to a bullet, firing a stainless rifle in the cold could potentially be a problem"
 
best target ever

Got the photobucket together. Here is yesterdays target and pic of the rifle(not the best pic of the rifle).

October050.jpg

IM002653.jpg



hope this works.
 
What platform are you building the 260 on? Tell us all the juicy details:D


I am thinking,Rem 700, AICS 2.0 260rem with a 1/8 or 1/8.5 tube at least 26" with a Badger FTE brake


I wana push the 130 or 140 VLD's or the 123 or 139 Scenars:dancingbanana:
 
Sounds like a good rig to me.

I will be going AICS stage 1.5
Kreiger 1:8 twist 26 inches
6.5x47
Trued remington action
Badger bolt knob
Jewel HVR triger
US optics 5-25 TPAL

I will be pushing the 123-139 scenars as well.
 
Guntech...
SS has a marked ductile/brittle transition at cold temperatures. Actually, the jump in properties is right near room temperature, or below depending on what annealed/tempered state it is in. When the material is brittle, it is still strong, it is just more sensitive to cracking and fracture. This is most likely a problem for high impact applications rather than high strength applications. Wear is a complicated combination of strength and hardness considerations, and considering the high speed and shock of the load due to a bullet, "firing a stainless rifle in the cold could potentially be a problem"

Thanks for the info...

Has anyone any knowledge of this being an actual problem? Has a rifle blown up due to being cold? I know many stainless rifles have been regularly fired in very cold conditions...

Nice group M77... I don't understand the measurement figures on the left?
 
Thanks for the info...

Has anyone any knowledge of this being an actual problem? Has a rifle blown up due to being cold? I know many stainless rifles have been regularly fired in very cold conditions...

Nice group M77... I don't understand the measurement figures on the left?

Measurements are from the center of the cross. first 0.5 inch away, second 0.75" away etc etc. Five shot total 4.6" divide by 5 = 0.92 average. Next time at the range elevation is getting dropped 1/2 an inch.

Never seen a damaged barrel myself from being shot in the cold.
 
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M77, the usual method of measuring a group doesn't require it to be indexed from an aiming point. Most of us don't want to shoot out the X so have the bullet lands off to the side.

You are right in measuring center to center but you go from the furthest bullets. I prefer to measure outside to outside then subtract the bullet diameter. Finding the center of a hole is not always clear.

If I was to score this target, I would measure the hole at 1 oclock to the one at 8.

Jerry
 
M77, the usual method of measuring a group doesn't require it to be indexed from an aiming point. Most of us don't want to shoot out the X so have the bullet lands off to the side.

You are right in measuring center to center but you go from the furthest bullets. I prefer to measure outside to outside then subtract the bullet diameter. Finding the center of a hole is not always clear.

If I was to score this target, I would measure the hole at 1 oclock to the one at 8.

Jerry

Based on what you see. How would you score my target (approx figures of course since 1 inch scale is not accurate on a computer screen)

Thanks
 
Based on what you see. How would you score my target (approx figures of course since 1 inch scale is not accurate on a computer screen)

Thanks

It's weird, your target lines are 1 inch on my computer...

I measure center to center the farthest two holes about 1.100" with calipers. Holes at 1 and 8 and at 8 and 4 are the same...
 
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