- Location
- Calgary, AB
The only primers I have experienced issues with are CCI 200. Had a number of duds. Never had any issues with Federal, Winchester or Remington.
Ranking Primer Quality
- Thread starter South Pender
- Start date
I posted earlier that both of my S&W Model 10s (well, Model of 1905 K-frame) are having issues with the Ginex Small pistol primers. I unfortunately loaded over 1000 rounds for PPC league and have been having 2-4 (or more!) light primer strikes per line of 60 rounds. Sometimes a second strike will ignite it - other times nope. I'm now known as the guy who keeps pulling the trigger before dumping my "empties"
Can you turn the trigger spring screw in a half turn? It is on the front of the grip frame.
Thanks for the info, I will just have to wait and see if I have any problems with the Ginex, hopefully not.
Purely anecdotal:
I was mentoring a CAS friend loading .38 Spl and .357 using Ginex small pistol primers.
Powder was CFE Pistol, near max charges, with a lead bullet as he likes a big bang!
In cold or cool weather, he experienced a number of squibs and poor ignition: unburned powder in the action etc.
Same charges with some Winchester and CCI primers I had on hand: No problems.
He says he'll keep the Ginex for warm weather practice and keep a squib rod handy.
I was mentoring a CAS friend loading .38 Spl and .357 using Ginex small pistol primers.
Powder was CFE Pistol, near max charges, with a lead bullet as he likes a big bang!
In cold or cool weather, he experienced a number of squibs and poor ignition: unburned powder in the action etc.
Same charges with some Winchester and CCI primers I had on hand: No problems.
He says he'll keep the Ginex for warm weather practice and keep a squib rod handy.
CCI's have harder primer cups than some other primers, so they can take a bit more force to set off.
The issue may be with the ignition system on your rifle, and/or you didn't fully seat them.
If this is the screw facing backwards below the barrel above the trigger guard, both revolvers have it tight. In fact, all screws are tight except the one holding the cylinder swingarm. If i tighten this one then the cylinder won't swing out.
The screw Ganderite is mentioning may be covered by your grips.
I've found Ginex SP unreliable in 357 mag with CFE pistol powder
CFE in a 357 is really a low power load anyway. I use it because I have lots of it and I'm not trying to get max power anyway. But even then I think the CFE powder charge is a little too much for a ginex primer.
Ultimately my experience with ginex primers are this:
SP- reliable in 9mm, especially hammer guns and PCC. Questionable in 45 ACP. Not recommended in 357 or above. Striker fired is questionable
SR- reliable in .223 for bolt action or semi using somewhat fast powder for bullets in the 55 gr range
LP- Reliable in 45 ACP including striker fired like Glock 21
LR- Reliable in 308 size cartridges. Would use them to hunt etc in cases of this size. I've used them in 300 PRC but mostly as fun "range" loads. Had a couple of failures to ignite in the last 500 rounds of 300 PRC so I would not use them in magnum cartridges when reliability is truly important.
From Ganderites tests it seems like the Ginex primers don't flash hard. I think they are great primers when used appropriately.
Oops. Will have to re-check. Thanks for the info.
Dang! What happen to your §keyboard?I could do a small test of 5 rounds of each primer and note the groups size, Extreme velocity Spread and the Standard Deviation. I could add a steel Berdan case, too.
The load would be 46 gr of N140 (similar to 4895) under a 155 Sierra match bullet, shot in a Savage at 100 yards.
