Cooey 12g 840 model help

Hmm maybe I’ll see what I can get it for and see if I can get it back to reasonable shape, if not I’ll cut the barrel down on it and make a cool wall hanger for my gun room
 
That is a Cooey made after Winchester took over. The stock will be maple or birth and darned near impossible to refinish unles a lot of dark stain is used first. As previously mentioned it has the plastic fore end part. The old Cooeys were case hardened. These were poorly blued. At least it will take bluing unlike the old models. These ones also have clunkier less tapered barrels.
It would only have value as a learning project to practice on.
There are two nice older Cooeys for sale now on the exchange for 150 each shipped. Walnut stocks.
 
Is having a plastic foregrip a bad thing ?? I’m sure I could get a nice piece of maple there as I believe the stock is maple, and yes stipples. I did see a video on YouTube where someone used a hair dryer/heat gun and a spray and it cleaned it up like new

Would be a fun project to strip it down and clean it up for a cool wall hanger with a tiny barrel and darker stain on it
 
I was given on in a little better condition but not much better. I took the wood off it, gave it a scrub with extra fine steel wool and light oil to get the rust off it, made sure everything worked as it should and put it back together and use it as is. Not worth any more effort than that.

Perfect beater gun on the ATV.
 
I was given on in a little better condition but not much better. I took the wood off it, gave it a scrub with extra fine steel wool and light oil to get the rust off it, made sure everything worked as it should and put it back together and use it as is. Not worth any more effort than that.

Perfect beater gun on the ATV.

I’ve been told by a few gunsmiths that using oil as a lube for cleaning rust acts like a “cutting agent” and was told just use a brass brush to brush it all off and clean it.
 
I’ve been told by a few gunsmiths that using oil as a lube for cleaning rust acts like a “cutting agent” and was told just use a brass brush to brush it all off and clean it.

Not sure what a "cutting agent" is. Google didn't help much in a way that would apply to this.

I can say that I have used the extra fine steel wool and light oil a few times and it worked as well as could be expected for cleaning steel like the OP has. It won't restore it but it does clean it.
 
I’ve been told by a few gunsmiths that using oil as a lube for cleaning rust acts like a “cutting agent” and was told just use a brass brush to brush it all off and clean it.

Steel wool/oil, brass brush, brass or steel wire wheel on a bench grinder, 150/180/220 grit paper, regardless of what you use you can’t make it any worse lol.
 
Well I was told that the oil will help hold small piece of steel or chunk of rust and can make indentations as well as scratches, was told just a dry brass brush and brush it all off

But think I’ll see if I can get it for like 25$ or free maybe even lol and see how it cleans up and use it for a wall hanger just to look neat on the wall lol
 
Well I’ve never had that happen, honestly there so little of the original bluing left leaving scratches is the least of your worries. You’ll start with steel wool and oil or brass brush and oil and move on to wet dry paper and oil.

Here’s an example, not all the pitting was removed but it’s a solid 5 footer once I reblued it.

Rusty
R1roIvI.jpg


Oil and fine steel wool
QvqxSh1.jpg


120/180/220 grit and oil
o2zOtiV.jpg
 
Well I’ve never had that happen, honestly there so little of the original bluing left leaving scratches is the least of your worries. You’ll start with steel wool and oil or brass brush and oil and move on to wet dry paper and oil.

Here’s an example, not all the pitting was removed but it’s a solid 5 footer once I reblued it.

Rusty
R1roIvI.jpg


Oil and fine steel wool
QvqxSh1.jpg


120/180/220 grit and oil
o2zOtiV.jpg

Dang that turned out to look pretty good there !! Good job, maybe I’ll be as lucky and it’ll turn out that nice when I’m done hahaha, only gonna be a display piece anyway when I’m done I think
 
He'd have to pay me for my gas to go pick that thing up. If you think for a minute you're going to whip that into something you can flip to pay for an autoloader you haven't been price checking values. For every hour you put into cleaning that thing up and trying to refurbish it to something somewhat reasonable you will get about $1 back for your time and effort. Cooey shotguns were not a great gun to be begin with, they were totally utilitarian but to neglect it like that and let something rust to that condition has nothing to do with age it has to do with neglect. I have guns here that are over 100 years old that don't have even a speck of rust pitting. Why? Because the previous owners took care of them unlike your friend. As mentioned by Struff55, remove any parts that can be sold and reused and toss the rest in the dumpster.
 
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Well I’m thinking of offering him 25$ and bringing it home to clean up and and shorten the barrel really short and use it for a cool wall hanger

Plus it’ll be a nice test surface for rebluing before I attempt my old Winchester I inherited
 
Well I’m thinking of offering him 25$ and bringing it home to clean up and and shorten the barrel really short and use it for a cool wall hanger

Plus it’ll be a nice test surface for rebluing before I attempt my old Winchester I inherited

A couple things - based on this post and some you have made previous - read up about Canadian law how "short" you can legally saw off a barrel, how to measure a barrel, and then do something to assure that the old Cooey is made of same steel as your Winchester - different steels going to take bluing, differently - they are likely to "finish up" differently as well. Not sure what you mean by "old" Winchester - I presume that you mean a Model 94 - the one I have made in 1955 will likely re-blue nicely if I wanted to - one that was made in 1965 is not likely to take "normal" bluing, at all, on the receiver.

"Re-bluing" can be "hot" caustic bluing, cold bluing or rust bluing (and variations) - so is not "one" bluing that is possible. True "bluing" is actually black rust from the parent metal - "cold blue" is often a chemical like selenium that is on there, making the colour. Is not "all the same".
 
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Well I realize that not all will come out the same, but I meant the entire process itself of cold bluing kit by birchwood

Well I don’t think length matter when it comes to being a non fireable wall piece

My old Winchester is a 69a from 1954-1957
 
If you end up with it and go through all the trouble to clean it up it would be a waste not to shoot it if you ask me.

Well I don’t think length matter when it comes to being a non fireable wall piece

Pretty sure it matters, even if it’s for a wall hanger. Iirc you can’t cut it below 18” and stay legal, hell you had to trigger lock a stripped pistol frame or Ar15 receiver for storage requirements.
 
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