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mdl29

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Long time shooter, first time reloader. Looking for input.
I have what i believe is a T-Mag 6 position lyman loader. a few sets of dies. and old RCBS case trimmer and scale. The plan is to start with 38/357, and go from there. I will eventually be loading 45 colt, 44mag, 45/70 45 ACP etc. i believe that i shoot enough for there to be some savings.
The input i seek is suggestions on loading manuals etc and what else i should aquire before proceeding beside consumables. All input appreciated.
Thanks in advance
 
The first thing i would suggest is a loading manual or three. The Lyman and Lee manuals include cast bullet loads, while the Hornady, Sierra, and probably every other bullet manufacturer's loading manual will include loading data for their product lines.

You'll need some way of dishing the powder out. this can vary from a set of Lee powder scoops to a $$$automated dispenser.
A priming tool, unless you're planning on repriming using the press, is needed as well.
A way of cleaning your brass is nice, but not absolutely essential.
A set of calipers to measure case and cartridge lengths.
The reloading manuals I have all have a section at the front of the book going over, in varying degrees of detail, what you need to do to safely reload your own ammo. After you've picked up a manual or three, and absorbed at least the highlights of the reloading process, you should have a good start.

There is also the ABC's of Reloading, but I don't recall it having any load data. IIRC, one of the members here had a line on a downloadable version.
in the meantime, if you have a source for reasonably priced components (particularly primers, but including bullets), it might be worthwhile collecting a bit of a stash to get you started. Powder could be tricky, based on availability and suitability - some powders amy be usable in all the calibers you've mentioned, but not necesarrily ideal in any of them.
Have you saved your brass from your factory amo?
 
The only cartridge I load out of those is 45 colt but here's my advice.

For cleaning your fired brass you could get a tumbler but not necessary. Just if you want shiny brass. I just use hot water and a little bit of dish soap.

For pistol cartridges I'll spend the extra money on carbide dies so I don't need to mess around with lube or redding sizing wax. The redding wax is the far superior method IMO if you decide to go that way. A little tin lasts a long time and doesn't make a huge mess. You'll also need to bell the end of the case for straight walled cartridges.

You'll need a way to prime the resized cases. There's attachments made for most presses or you could get a hand primer. I use a hand primer that came with the original kit I bought and haven't seen a need to change. But I'm usually only loading a 100 or so cases at a time.

For powder when I'm loading pistols cartridges I'll use an rbcs powder measure. And I'll check with an electronic scale. I have an old 5-0-5 scale but I don't use it as it's time consuming. Every so often I'll weigh a charge to ensure everything's still running good. I have an electronic powder dispenser but I just use that for rifle cartridges and they can get a little pricy.

Seating bullets is pretty straightforward but you'll need calipers to measure cartridge length.

Crimping, most of my loads are pretty tame so I don't usually crimp haven't had any issues.

Storage, I like those mtm cases that are caliber specific so I can keep lots of 100 together. Makes it easy to track how many times brass has been fired and the reloading recipe.

Components, for pistol it's all just plinking ammo for me so I usually get the less expensive options. I like the campro bullets for 45 colt. Ya it's not the authentic lead look for single action revolvers but I find the bullet wax gums up the action pretty bad.

Reloading books I just use a lyman reloading book. There's so much load data from companies like hodgons, Hornady, vhitavouri online that if I can't find what I'm looking for or i want to double check something I'll just pull up one of their sites or apps. Also the dies should come with a instruction manual on how to set up and use their dies. Sometimes there will be load data in there too.

When loading for pistol calibers like the 357 or 45 colt books will have multiple sets of load data depending on the firearm your intending to use it in. For example my single action replica 45colt can't take the same pressures a modern lever gun chambered in 45colt can. So ensure your getting your load data from the right part of the book.

Hope that helps.
 
Powder measure would be a good addition along with a trickler for your scale. Ball powders and mechanical measures are the best match for each other. I would get atleast one manual from a company that makes reloading tools since they will have everything you need to know before you start. There's some do's and don'ts, helpful info etc that will set you up for success. And don't forget a bullet puller to fix your first mistake!
 
I started by watching a lot of reloading videos on u tube. Lots out there, and you get a basic idea of things you need to do and not do.

At least one manual is all u need. You can glean anything else of the net, but nice to have one reference for your loads.

I also use the scotch brite pads. Usually hit the end of the case before I resize, that way there is less mess going up into the dies, then tumble them. A bench primer seater will do wonders with your reloading speed. I still use a manual scale, a trickler and the lee powder cups for quick loading.

Right now I'm doing 44 mag and 450 bushmaster for the straight walls, but have done 45-70, and 444 marlin as well. Once I have a load set up I usually do them in batches of 50, as that is all I have for trays, and sometimes do 3 or 4 in a sitting. Usually prep brass before hand and have it all ready to go, before any reloading. Have about 800-900 44 mag brass, so doing things in batches is just easier instead of all at once.
 
I’d go Lyman and Lee for load manuals for starters, I like books so have a couple others (old and new Hornady). For pistol calibers you’ll need something to clean cases if your using any ammount of range pickup brass, wet tumbler if you have lots of brass to clean or a vibratory for smaller amounts. Lee has a cheap chamfer/debur tool with a primer pocket cleaner, it also comes with the lock stud and cutter you’ll need to trim cases once you get into bottle neck cases. Lee has a hand trimming system that works well and is cheap to buy.

For priming I generally prime on the press but a hand primer also works well, I find it easier to include that step on the press with pistol cases and depending on the hand primer you’ll need a separate set of shell holders. Priming on the press you’ve already got the shell holder and you get more leverage so there less hand fatigue, both work fine though.

I use a powder measure for pistol charging as it speeds thing up if you’re doing any volume, even just for a couple boxes it’s quicker, Lee has some cheaper but good ones. Rifle cartridges I use a dipper and trickler mainly but have a measure for bulk rifle loading for plinking. You’ll need a scale of some sort, beam or digital. I seem to use digital the most but have both. Digital is fine to check loads for pistol calibers as far as I’m concerned, you’ll need some type of powder funnel as well.

You’ll need a good set of calipers, a loading block or some way of holding cases while you load. I started using the empty plastic tray in the factory ammo box, works fine but loading blocks aren’t expensive. A kinetic bullet puller is a good tool to have, I use mine more than I thought. From pulling rounds apart for components, to checking crimps while setting up a die a puller comes in handy.

Basically for starters you’ll need a way to clean, trim, prime and charge cases repeatedly. Dies to size, flare, seat and possibly crimp. You can do this on the simple but after you get it down it’s nice to speed things up a bit, at least I did. Loading a couple hundred pistol cases on a single stage press teaches you a lot of good things as a new loader but it becomes time consuming after awhile, don’t be surprised if all of a sudden you have a lot more reloading gear than you expected lol.
 
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Here’s a good video on 38spl that shows what I’d call the minimum of tools you need to load pistol ammo fairly quickly, I always liked his loading videos. He keeps it simple and straightforward, makes you realize it doesn’t have to be overly complicated if you don’t want it to be.

 
To add to what has already been said...

You probably won't need to trim any of those calibres except 45/70. I wouldn't purchase a physical manual, just download a couple .pdf versions. Most data can be found online today. Youtube's a pretty good resource, but like any resource, always use some level of caution/skepticism. Lastly, if I could make a short list of the most important things to get right when loading pistol cartridges they would be:

1) No powder = BOOM!

2) Too much powder = BOOM!

3) OAL matters, especially in autos. Never use the OAL's listed in manuals/data, always determine your own OAL. Revolver loads are usually a little easier since many bullets get crimped onto the cannelure.
 
A good set of Mitutoyo calipers. I ran a cheap caliper for many years, they were ok, but now with a good one, I am slapping myself upside the head for putting up with the cheap ones for so long.
 
Been reloading for over 50 years. The best thing you can do is find a friend, shooting buddy, relative or anyone else who has reloading knowledge / experience and ask them to help you get started.
 
Butcherbill said:
Here’s a good video on 38spl that shows what I’d call the minimum of tools you need to load pistol ammo fairly quickly, I always liked his loading videos. He keeps it simple and straightforward, makes you realize it doesn’t have to be overly complicated if you don’t want it to be.
Click to expand...

Thanks Butcherbill, I enjoyed that, but watched it here. Fight the censor lol.

[video]https://rumble.com/embed/v1x27zo/?pub=4[/video]
 
Testing, testing, 1, 2, 3...

I wanted to see if Rumble was supported by this boards video insert function...it is not.

Carry on...
 
I'm gonna go out on a limb here, and suggest - urge - the purchase of one, or better, two, actual published manuals. All data sources have error. Cross-checking helps make sure you aren't using someone's typo!

And, if you have two manuals, you can compare one to the other, and compare any digital data you get to both. Then, you can keep a manual on your bench, open to the page for the cartridge, powder/bullet weight you are using, just so you can make sure you have it right.

I've seen a few boo-boo's in my years of shooting, and all arose from wrong data, wrong charge, wrong powder. I find it hard to cross check, and go back and re-affirm data fround on-line. I mean, if you print it all out, you can, but then you have a self-published manual!

The cost of a manual, up-dated every few years, is peanuts. One cracked frame, blown cylinder, ruined bolt face far exceeds all the mauals I have bought over fifty years.

Plus, the instructions and discussion by folks like Hornady and Sierra are fact based. not like what you may encounter from on-line sources writting under a forum tag line.
 
ykkid said:
I'm gonna go out on a limb here, and suggest - urge - the purchase of one, or better, two, actual published manuals. All data sources have error. Cross-checking helps make sure you aren't using someone's typo!

And, if you have two manuals, you can compare one to the other, and compare any digital data you get to both. Then, you can keep a manual on your bench, open to the page for the cartridge, powder/bullet weight you are using, just so you can make sure you have it right.

I've seen a few boo-boo's in my years of shooting, and all arose from wrong data, wrong charge, wrong powder. I find it hard to cross check, and go back and re-affirm data fround on-line. I mean, if you print it all out, you can, but then you have a self-published manual!

The cost of a manual, up-dated every few years, is peanuts. One cracked frame, blown cylinder, ruined bolt face far exceeds all the mauals I have bought over fifty years.

Plus, the instructions and discussion by folks like Hornady and Sierra are fact based. not like what you may encounter from on-line sources writting under a forum tag line.
Click to expand...

Why so many printed manuals that end up going out of date???

There are many online, free areas with load data to do your cross reference checks with, if you are that worried about errors. Hodgdon site, for one, is a great resource.

If you can hook up with someone local to help show you the ropes, that is one of the greatest resources out there, just remember, everyone has their own little spin on how things should be done, and they aren't always the best or most productive ways.

My dad for instance was always by the book and didn't venture. So when they published a load that was the best combo, that they tested and found, he tried to copy it to a tee. Not even veering off on overall length, even though he never ever used a comparator kit. What I'm saying is he could have set the OAL to his chamber, and it might have shot better than the book suggested lengths.

And I'm going to say this here as well, but I understand that for newbs it might not be the best. Go slow and learn, cross reference everything. I recently started with a 450 bushmaster, and it is in a falling block ruger #1, so it can and will take more pressure than a standard bolt action, or AR type platform most loading manuals list data for. I am exceeding all max load data on the manuals I have read, but still watching for the signs of overpressure, so still cautiously proceeding. No flattened primers, no built up ridges around the firing pin on primers. I have seen pressure spikes on my other rifles, so I am more confident in proceeding with things like this, and still going slow. In fact the bullet tip I'm using in it is for the muzzle loaders, so no printed data on it, but I can cross reference to similar data, and go slowly forward. I'm now in year 3 reloading, and still lots to learn, but not afraid to step out of the norm, cautiously.

So take the books as guides, not the "bible", but as always proceed slowly, with GREAT CAUTION, and learn on the way.

Get a binder, or folder going when you start, and take lots of notes, and jot lots of data that you use along the way. Creates a great reference for your self and your rifles along the way, with different components.
 
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