action screw torque

TrxR

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I'm going to be pulling apart a remington 700 with the blind mag in a wood stock to clean the trigger and was wondering what good torque spec is for the action screws?
 
I think you'll get a variety of answers to this question. Action screw torque depends, to some extent, on the type of stock you have (wood, plastic, pillar-bedded or not, etc.). However, you have specified a wood stock, presumably without pillars. For this, you'll also get quite a variety of suggestions, but my advice would be something in the range of 25-35 in.-lbs. That is the range suggested for wood-stocked Sako rifles, and I don't see why it wouldn't apply equally to a Rem. M700. If you don't have a torque screwdriver, 25-35 in.-lbs. is what you get when they feel snugly tightened (but not over-tightened). I definitely wouldn't go over 35 in.-lbs. or thereabouts with a wood stock. With my Sako wood-stocked rifles, I use 30 in.-lbs.
 
I had the same issue facing me when I took my gun stocks off my Rem 700s. Different manufacturers of rifles/stocks have slightly different recommended torque specs for their products. My research (on the internet) indicated that a torque spec of around 40 in lbs was ballpark for Remington wood stocks.

That spec can be varied somewhat (maybe 5 inch lbs either way for optimum accuracy in the specific rifle). You'll have to do some experimentation. You're going to require a FAT wrench.
 
Use a torque wrench to open up the screws. Lets say start with setting it at 20" lbs and go in increments up from there until they start to turn. That should give you a general idea on the factory torque setting...
 
Use a torque wrench to open up the screws. Lets say start with setting it at 20" lbs and go in increments up from there until they start to turn. That should give you a general idea on the factory torque setting...

Not really... it would vary a lot on the humidity where it was first assembled and now. Here on the west coast it is very humid and stocks take on that humidity over a period and swell slightly.

Post #2 covers good torque settings...
 
Not really... it would vary a lot on the humidity where it was first assembled and now. Here on the west coast it is very humid and stocks take on that humidity over a period and swell slightly.

Yes, it will give the OP a general idea on how the factory torque was. It won't be exact due to shrinking/swelling of the wood as you mentioned. But, differences will be very nominal if the action is pillar bedded which I don't know if it is.

Nevertheless, there is sources pointing to action screw torque for Rem 700 from 20 - 65 "/lbs. The reverse torque method will point out where you're sitting within this margin.

Btw.how much difference would a 0.5 mm swell/shrink of the wood stock make in terms of action screw torque ?
 
Btw.how much difference would a 0.5 mm swell/shrink of the wood stock make in terms of action screw torque ?

I don't know but I once had a new Browning A Bolt where the screws were so tight I had to grind a bit for my motorcycle impact screwdriver and hold the rifle in padded vise jaws... Once they broke loose they turned easily.
 
Reverse-torque is fine if your wrench can do that w-o damage. Many mfrs advise against that. I'd just go with post #2 - who cares what it was set at 'back whenever' ?
 
I don't know but I once had a new Browning A Bolt where the screws were so tight I had to grind a bit for my motorcycle impact screwdriver and hold the rifle in padded vise jaws... Once they broke loose they turned easily.

Hey guntech , that's impressive .
Only who knows what /how to use a manual impact driver any more ?
...skwerl
 
I've got 2. One for on my Norton, one for the Home tool box. I used on last year to remove the Bayo on my SKS.
 
Use a torque wrench to open up the screws. Lets say start with setting it at 20" lbs and go in increments up from there until they start to turn. That should give you a general idea on the factory torque setting...

Does your torque wrench work in both directions? Every analogue one I've ever used is for clockwise only.

You can still your trick, increment 1-3ftlbs at a time until the bolt actually moved before the click
 
I tighten the front screw to "pretty damn tight". The rear screw is usually taken to "not quite so tight". Surprisingly, this has and continues to work well for me.
 
Does your torque wrench work in both directions? Every analogue one I've ever used is for clockwise only.

You can still your trick, increment 1-3ftlbs at a time until the bolt actually moved before the click

I've got a Tekton micrometer dual-direction wrench 10 - 150 in.-lb. Specs say accuracy for counterclockwise is at +-6% clockwise is +-4%
 
One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post is that torque values are influenced by whether the screws are lubricated or are completely dry. Lubricated screws can tighten up further with a particular torque value than can dry screws. In other words, for a given torque value of, say, 30 in.-lbs., a lubricated screw will turn further and produce tighter clamping than will a dry screw. I believe that most recommended torque values assume a lightly-lubricated screw. By this I mean a screw with a very light coating of lubricant. In my experience, it seems that most screws come that way from the manufacturer. If I have dry screws, I'll lubricate them lightly and then wipe off most the lubricant before torquing them down. I'd be interested in hearing from the gunsmiths on here about this.
 
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