this should be obvious but in my parts bin for 1911 I have a selection of springs same length but different size wire, the 1911 has a strong spring and thinking os changing to a softer spring so the slide pulls back easier, what does it do to the firearm changing from heavy to light spring and how best to pick the right one
1911 spring selection
- Thread starter laurencen
- Start date
Install a shock buff on spring guide rod. Start with a 16 pounds. Fire the gun with your ammo - 50 rounds or so. Check the shock buff - if mangled go to 18 pounds..if show no mark or look like new - go 14. Repeat with new shock buff.
This method will ensure you are not beating your frame. Shock buff don’t last forever but should be in good condition for 1500/2000 rounds. It is also a good way to monitor when your spring is tired and need to be replaced.
This method will ensure you are not beating your frame. Shock buff don’t last forever but should be in good condition for 1500/2000 rounds. It is also a good way to monitor when your spring is tired and need to be replaced.
You can buy different strength springs for different ammo power levels. Lighter spring would allow action to cycle with less powerful ammo, and vicey versy. Too light a spring and the action beats itself up, too heavy and it won't cycle.
thanks, I will take a look at the buffer, not sure what spring is in now it is quite a hard pull to #### it wire diameter 1.14mm, the spring set is Wilson and came with 6 springs will take a look later today, thanks for the info
there should have been a color chart with that set of springs when you bought them.
You put a heavy spring in and try with your ammo, if it don't cycle properly, go down till you find the that works good.
If you put a light spring in and use hardball ammo, you will beat the hell out of the gun,
if you want a easy spring to cycle the gun, load ammo light them.
For years , I use to shoot semi wad cutter and light W231 loads for paper punching.
You put a heavy spring in and try with your ammo, if it don't cycle properly, go down till you find the that works good.
If you put a light spring in and use hardball ammo, you will beat the hell out of the gun,
if you want a easy spring to cycle the gun, load ammo light them.
For years , I use to shoot semi wad cutter and light W231 loads for paper punching.
I bought most of my 1911 springs from Brownells.
If you are shooting standard ammo, going to a lighter spring isn't going to hurt the gun too much. eg., going from 18lb/16lb to 14lb in 5" 45 acp 1911. It is just going to change the recoil characteristics. Lighter spring may make the gun a little easier to control for follow up shots as the gun will not dive forward as much when the slide returns. The brass will eject further.
Cocking the hammer before racking the slide will make it easier too.
If you put in a flat bottom (zero radius) firing pin stop, you can go with an even lighter recoil spring.
Springs are not that expensive so might as well get a few in the range you are interested in, or go for a multi spring calibration pack and experiment.
Cocking the hammer before racking the slide will make it easier too.
If you put in a flat bottom (zero radius) firing pin stop, you can go with an even lighter recoil spring.
Springs are not that expensive so might as well get a few in the range you are interested in, or go for a multi spring calibration pack and experiment.
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it all depend what calibre your 1911 is. Standard weights for them are as follows;
9mm 10#
40 sw 12#
45acp 14#
Use wolff vari-coils as they are not standard weight throught the spring, and you will notice the coils get closer together towards the spring plug base
A full length guide rod will help in the recoil and control as the spring is now captured and doesn't go in every direction when compressing
Shok buffs are good choice to test you spring weight to see what is the best selection, but DO NOT leave them in, as they have a tendancy to break at the worst times and can jam up the pistol.
9mm 10#
40 sw 12#
45acp 14#
Use wolff vari-coils as they are not standard weight throught the spring, and you will notice the coils get closer together towards the spring plug base
A full length guide rod will help in the recoil and control as the spring is now captured and doesn't go in every direction when compressing
Shok buffs are good choice to test you spring weight to see what is the best selection, but DO NOT leave them in, as they have a tendancy to break at the worst times and can jam up the pistol.
thanks for the info, have to take it out and give it a try, shooting 45acp reloads cast lead, regarding springs, one end is cut coil the other is finished flat, the flat end as I recall is tight on the guide rod the open end I have in the cap, does it marrer how spring is orientated?
^^ this
In my 1911's, a combination of a flat bottom firing pin stop and a heavier mainspring allows you to use a lighter recoil spring.
Controlling slide speed with just the recoil spring just causes more slide momentum going forward.
The right combination (#28 mainspring and #14 recoil spring I think in mine?) in my 45's is very smooth and reliable. How far and where your brass ejects is a good indication things are running properly.
