2nd lathe followed me home

shelby78

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2 is 1 and 1 is none lol…. I watch Gov deals all the time for deals and could not resist this one. History so far with gov deals machinery is my Standard modern 2000 series lathe, KBC Bridgeport clone with dro and now this Darbert with DRO.

High school literally 5 mins down the road had 5 of these up for grabs. They even hired a mover to load them! Bought this for $1525. The Fagor Dro is worth $2200 alone new. Yes it just a cheap knockoff lathe and will probly not be as accurate as my standard modern but can’t beat the price. Came with steady and follow Rest also.

Most expensive one went for $2200 and cheapest was $1300. This is a 13x40 lathe.
 

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Yes it just a cheap knockoff lathe and will probly not be as accurate as my standard modern but can’t beat the price. Came with steady and follow Rest also.

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I have an inexpensive Chinese lathe. paid about $700 for it at princess auto years ago.
These lathes can do very accurate work so long as you keep cutting tools sharp and never force it to work too hard by taking too deep a cut and keep the tool covered in lube to keep the cutting edge cool.
I use it to make small accessories for reloading tools, neck expanders, pilots for RBSC and Forester trimmers, case length gauges for obsolete calibers.
 
I have a Taiwanese 13 x 36 gearhead that is built like a tank and this one also appears to be very heavily built. What is the diameter of the spindle through hole? As with mine, it appears to have a D1-X mount for the chuck.
At $1,525.00, I'd say you made a very nice score.
Congrats
 
Good score!

I doubt it is any less accurate than your other lathe. Point in fact, I figure the operator is what controls the accuracy, in the end!
 
I have a Taiwanese 13 x 36 gearhead that is built like a tank and this one also appears to be very heavily built. What is the diameter of the spindle through hole? As with mine, it appears to have a D1-X mount for the chuck.
At $1,525.00, I'd say you made a very nice score.
Congrats

It is built well for the size. Luckily it has a D1-4 mount the same as my Standard Modern so I can use my good chucks on it. 1.5 thru hole in this one so a bit bigger than my Standard Modern
At 1.375. I was tempted to buy a few of them lol..
 
Good score!

I doubt it is any less accurate than your other lathe. Point in fact, I figure the operator is what controls the accuracy, in the end!

I haven’t had the time to power it yet (only the dro) but I am sure it will cut true. Having the Dro will make dealing with backlash easier vs my old girl without. I feel pretty fancy seeing 4 decimal places on 2 axis lol.. This will also cut metric and the dials read both.
 
Looks like the bases are cast, so that's some good weight, although it's nice to have cabinets in those too. Has a spindle brake by the look of it, which can't hurt.

The Chinese units have generous spindle bore diameters and short headstocks which is good for many jobs.

Shaoxing makes most of the Chinese ones, they lack the fit and finish of a classic western lathe, but hardened and ground ways and high quality bearings are the most important points and they have those.
 
220 3 phase. I use vid’s on my lathe and mill so no issue with the 3 phase.

Hey Shelby78, looks like you snagged a screamer of a deal!
Just curious what your approach to running your lathe with a VFD is? Do you have the motor running and then clutch it, or do you just have a quick ramp up/down on your VFD?
About 4 years back I converted my lathe to a single phase motor. It's convenient, and I don't miss having the rotary phase converter running all the time, but I always wonder how much surface finish I'm loosing with the rougher operation of the single phase motor.
Converted my old mill to VFD's, and that has been a pleasant experience so far.
 
Hey Shelby78, looks like you snagged a screamer of a deal!
Just curious what your approach to running your lathe with a VFD is? Do you have the motor running and then clutch it, or do you just have a quick ramp up/down on your VFD?
About 4 years back I converted my lathe to a single phase motor. It's convenient, and I don't miss having the rotary phase converter running all the time, but I always wonder how much surface finish I'm loosing with the rougher operation of the single phase motor.
Converted my old mill to VFD's, and that has been a pleasant experience so far.

My lathes came with three phase motors as well. I traded those motors to a local shop, that did rewiring back in the day for appropriate 220V single phase motors. Never looked back.

If you already have three phase power, then go for it. If you have a hobby shop, with usual single-phase power, VFDs are just something else to go wrong. Just IMHO of course. Each to their own.
 
Nice catch. I live near Borden and watch for similar deals, bid on a Clausing Colchester that needed a motor, similar size to the one you posted. I think I bid around $1800 after looking at it on the last day, the guy said only one other person viewed it. Sold for over $5k. You did well, congrats.
 
Hey Shelby78, looks like you snagged a screamer of a deal!
Just curious what your approach to running your lathe with a VFD is? Do you have the motor running and then clutch it, or do you just have a quick ramp up/down on your VFD?
About 4 years back I converted my lathe to a single phase motor. It's convenient, and I don't miss having the rotary phase converter running all the time, but I always wonder how much surface finish I'm loosing with the rougher operation of the single phase motor.
Converted my old mill to VFD's, and that has been a pleasant experience so far.


My standard modern lathe and my KBC mill are simple so I wired the vid direct and used the vid for on/off/reverse. This one I will wire to use factory controls. There is a lot of extra wiring back and forth from the vfd but vid’s have a crazy amount of tuning you can do. Pic of lathe control box I need to wire to vfd. Loose connectors I need to fix also.


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