Shotgun optics

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Diesel Bulldog

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Apologies if this has already been covered, but I need to get my 3 posts up (this is number 2).

I have a Maverick 88 that I intend to use a bear gun (defense and maybe hunting). Currently it has a 28" smooth bore but I want a rifled slug barrel. I also have a cheap holographic scope that I want to put on it (I'll probably upgrade to a decent one later if I like how it feels).

My question is; would a cantilevered barrel or a seperate rail/scope mount be a better choice?
 
I prefer a rail and scope but that's just me. The 88 isn't drilled and tapped from the factory so a cantilever barrel is your best bet. I've had mixed results when taking the barrel on and off with regards to zero shifting. I solved the issue with after market iron sites with a fine red fiber optic bead as the shift in impact was hidden by my inaccuracy with the iron sites but that was when my eyes were better. Now a days it's a lpvo 1-4x20 with an illuminated dot reticle. Best of both worlds and I just leave the barrel on once sited in. I can't remember how long it's been since I've used my rifled slug barrel but my 535ats wears a 4x32 Redfield set up for turkey. The 535 is drilled n tapped though
 
@brybenn, thanks for the input. I was leaning towards the cantilevered barrel like you mentioned. I did see a weaver saddle mount for the 500 that looked interesting. It doesn't require any drilling or tapping and would allow me to swap barrels while keeping the scope/optic in place. I would plan re-sighting after changing barrels either way.
 
Diesel Bulldog said:
@brybenn, thanks for the input. I was leaning towards the cantilevered barrel like you mentioned. I did see a weaver saddle mount for the 500 that looked interesting. It doesn't require any drilling or tapping and would allow me to swap barrels while keeping the scope/optic in place. I would plan re-sighting after changing barrels either way.
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I would suggest not using a saddle mount. They require bolts going thru your trigger pin holes and tightening on your receiver. I found to get the mount snug enough for it not to shift during recoil, it had to be tightened to the point of binding the action of the gun. Maybe certain models work better than others but that was my findings. I ended up drilling and tapping with 8/40 screws and a steel base. Ended that problem. Was an 870 special purpose magnum. Good luck
 
Any reason you want a rifled slug barrel over a shorter smooth bore with chokes for bear defense? Just the price alone for 12g sabot’s is enough to make me stick to a hardcast foster slug, rifled shotgun barrel’s can be very picky on ammo as well. I’ve yet to find a brand of sabot my rifled 870 barrel will accurately shoot for hunting.
 
I have a rail on my 870 turkey gun, a cantilever on my 20ga SX3 slug gun and used a saddle on a 12ga 870 slug gun and all have worked as they were intended although I've read some had issues with the saddle. I would also suggest the cantilever. A buddy has a win SXP 2 barrel combo that requires resighting the slug barrel whenever he uses it. If its only a couple shots its no biggie. But a bad range day coupled with $7-8 a shot for sabots can put the hurt on the wallet and the shoulder. I usually spend $200-250 on different sabots sighting in a new slug gun so I tend to not want to remove the optic once its on.
 
Defense is a secondary concern, but I do plan on getting an 18.5" barrel eventually. I mostly intend to use it as an option for hunting. My only other big game hunting gun is a .303, but that's mostly for moose and caribou.

Additionally, my in-laws hunt polar bear and when I go with them having something that can shoot slugs accurately provides piece of mind.
 
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I find Burris Speedbead works well. And it comes with no questions asked warranty, fully transferable.

The only “want” - they should have included a rubber cap for the red dot, similar to what Leupold DPP has.
 
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