muzzle crown damage

WhelanLad

WhelanLad

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Guys, if i got close up focused photos of my Kimber crown, would we be able to tell if its damaged?

im not sure if the Grand slams just didnt like the gun, if the Woodleighs played up because of the old brass neck tension and just if the corelokt Ultras are just landing together nicely LOL

i kind of assume that having the corelokts group very well- MOA - that it kind of rules out the Crown as damaged?

ive had a look with my eye- nothing super obvious, perhaps techxperts here may pick something up??

or again, is it unlikely being that the 160gr Hot Cor and the 140gr Corelokt ultras group ?-- assuming nothing would group if damaged crown?

let me know, an i can grab some photos
i have seen some cowboy youtube videos of guys with a Brass screw, using some cutting agent/cream an smoothing there crown out, but im not so sure that is the right way to go about the kimber 84 crown... hindsight is a $300 re crown at a gun smith lopping a half inch off it.....

cheers
 
and another Q on this.

Say there is a bit of Debris stuck between barrel and forend in the barrel channel, is there a rule to say Debris on the "Left" would have POI going to the Right? or this is not true
 
In my opinion, anything touching your barrel will negatively affect your rifles accuracy. As far as the crown question goes, I’d say if it’s producing great results with two different loads then it’s undamged. The last thing touching that bullet is the crown. Cheers
 
For that kind of coin - look into hand crowning tool from Brownells - I have no clue what they sell for these days. I could not prove it, but is stuck in my head that you want the pilot to closely match to your rifling - so end up buying or making many pilots for that cutter set.

As well - you will see a star on your rifle muzzle when fired - certainly with rimfire - I believe same with centre fire cartridges - the "even-ness" of that star - all same length legs - will tell you about the gas release going on as your bullet exits that muzzle - it will be really "lob sided" if the crown is not cut straight or if there is a ding there.

From a bench rest shooter acquaintance - there was a time when advocates called for a "dish" on your muzzle - say 7 degrees - was alleged to make the bullet exit so much better - apparently that idea has been thoroughly dis-credited over the years of bench rest shooting - you want your muzzle about as close to 90 degrees to centre of bore line as you can get it - for "maximum" accuracy. Is all about really even release of that bullet as it leaves the barrel - the barrel "lets go" of the bullet base - all the way around - at the exact same instant. Apparently crooked or sloped or damaged muzzles will "kick" that fired bullet off in various directions. Another acquaintance will cut the muzzle at 90 degrees - then use a piloted 45 degree cutter to take the sharp ends off the rifling.
 
If I could fit the barrel through my headstock a quick cut and crown was usually $40 or $50. It took about 15 minutes.

Simply touching the crown up with a piloted 60 degree tool by hand was $10 and took 10 seconds... and it worked.

I am fully retired, sorry.
 
Dogleg said:
I doubt theres anything wrong with your crown if it shoots anything well.

300 for a re-crowning job is simply insane. The guy who quoted you that should be locked up.
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I fear that is the new reality. A young gunsmith just started a business in my area recently. I was introuced to him by an old friend who gives the young guy lots of work checking out large estate purchases. The young guy offered to give me a "discount" and mount two scopes for me (I was going to give him some business to show support). My bargain price was $150 per scope.Needless to say I passed on his offer and did job myself like I always have done.
 
big bear said:
I fear that is the new reality. A young gunsmith just started a business in my area recently. I was introuced to him by an old friend who gives the young guy lots of work checking out large estate purchases. The young guy offered to give me a "discount" and mount two scopes for me (I was going to give him some business to show support). My bargain price was $150 per scope.Needless to say I passed on his offer and did job myself like I always have done.
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I guess if gunsmiths charge 1200 bucks an hour now its the new reality; but I didn’t think we were there yet.
 
sounds like he's out to lunch and doesn't want to work lmao. I'd be over the moon if someone gave me $25 to mount a scope.


Does that price include him entirely re-bluing the barrel?
 
Potashminer said:
For that kind of coin - look into hand crowning tool from Brownells - I have no clue what they sell for these days. I could not prove it, but is stuck in my head that you want the pilot to closely match to your rifling - so end up buying or making many pilots for that cutter set.

As well - you will see a star on your rifle muzzle when fired - certainly with rimfire - I believe same with centre fire cartridges - the "even-ness" of that star - all same length legs - will tell you about the gas release going on as your bullet exits that muzzle - it will be really "lob sided" if the crown is not cut straight or if there is a ding there.

From a bench rest shooter acquaintance - there was a time when advocates called for a "dish" on your muzzle - say 7 degrees - was alleged to make the bullet exit so much better - apparently that idea has been thoroughly dis-credited over the years of bench rest shooting - you want your muzzle about as close to 90 degrees to centre of bore line as you can get it - for "maximum" accuracy. Is all about really even release of that bullet as it leaves the barrel - the barrel "lets go" of the bullet base - all the way around - at the exact same instant. Apparently crooked or sloped or damaged muzzles will "kick" that fired bullet off in various directions. Another acquaintance will cut the muzzle at 90 degrees - then use a piloted 45 degree cutter to take the sharp ends off the rifling.
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I've used those a few times, they work quite well if you're careful. - dan
 
Iv used a brass machine screw with round headed made for a slotted screwdriver in a drill with some polishing compound to clean up a damaged crown on a K98k. The round head centers itself and the drill makes short work of it. There are definitely nicer ways of doing it but I was in a pinch
 
WhelanLad said:
Guys, if i got close up focused photos of my Kimber crown, would we be able to tell if its damaged?

im not sure if the Grand slams just didnt like the gun, if the Woodleighs played up because of the old brass neck tension and just if the corelokt Ultras are just landing together nicely LOL

i kind of assume that having the corelokts group very well- MOA - that it kind of rules out the Crown as damaged?

ive had a look with my eye- nothing super obvious, perhaps techxperts here may pick something up??

or again, is it unlikely being that the 160gr Hot Cor and the 140gr Corelokt ultras group ?-- assuming nothing would group if damaged crown?

let me know, an i can grab some photos
i have seen some cowboy youtube videos of guys with a Brass screw, using some cutting agent/cream an smoothing there crown out, but im not so sure that is the right way to go about the kimber 84 crown... hindsight is a $300 re crown at a gun smith lopping a half inch off it.....

cheers
Click to expand...
I may be missing something, but if your rifle shoots well with core-lokts, thn just keep shooting core-lokts. There's nothing wrong with that rifle. Once you find the bullet/powder/brass combination that works well for you, buy LOTS of those components and just keep shooting it.

PS. I've had a couple of Kimbers. If you're getting sub 1" consistently, you've got a good one - don't mess with it too much.
 
Canuck65 said:
I may be missing something, but if your rifle shoots well with core-lokts, thn just keep shooting core-lokts. There's nothing wrong with that rifle. Once you find the bullet/powder/brass combination that works well for you, buy LOTS of those components and just keep shooting it.

PS. I've had a couple of Kimbers. If you're getting sub 1" consistently, you've got a good one - don't mess with it too much.
Click to expand...
they are the Ultras.... bonded version, long since discontinued lol!!

but it seems to shoot ok with most, just not all!
 
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