Help me through my reloading journey! advice please!

Awesome!

That is a neat site, I am going to explore it more, but I still went with western metal as I can do local pickup and save myself the $20 shipping
I'd pick that route then.

There is pretty much a thread standard when it comes to dies. Then most ram style reloading presses uses the same style shell holders. So lyman works with Lee and vise versa.

I do like Lyman products. Except their wet tumbler.
 
Oh yeah and a tool that most kits don't come with is a bullet puller. Either can get a Collet puller or hammer style.I got a couple cases and bullets I use to set up dies.

Also another tip is use a marker and mark the jam nut and die body, jam nut to press, or die body and seater plug. Just after you setup the press to visually check if it backed off or was changed.
 
Congrats!

Just wondering what weight of bullet that is, seems a little deep but may just be the pic.
it's the Hornady 143gr ELD-X. According to the Lyman manual, it needs an OAL of 2.820"

pGU4fT2.jpeg
 
DB, that isn't how you measure overall length when you're measuring to correct seating depth, for the distance the bullet has to travel to enter the leade for best accuracy. Maybe you know this?

The tips on bullets are often different lengths, especially lead tip bullets and even the plastic inserts shown in your pic.

You can purchase a "Nut Gauge" which has six different size holes to engage the bullet on the OGIVE where the dimensions should be consistent from one bullet to the next.

If you have the tools, you can use just about any type of material, which is hard enough not to deform or wear quickly, just by drilling a hole large enough to accept the bullet tip to appx half way down onto the ogive.

Measuring the gauge and the cartridge to the base, will give you a consistent length to measure.

The method you show in the pic is great to ensure the loaded round will fit into your rifles magazine.
 
Add your location to your profile. It will help on future answers.

From time to time and old fart gives up reloading. Usually because he died.

If you buy his everything in his loading room, his family will be delighted and ad you will have a good start.
 
DB, that isn't how you measure overall length when you're measuring to correct seating depth, for the distance the bullet has to travel to enter the leade for best accuracy. Maybe you know this?

The tips on bullets are often different lengths, especially lead tip bullets and even the plastic inserts shown in your pic.

You can purchase a "Nut Gauge" which has six different size holes to engage the bullet on the OGIVE where the dimensions should be consistent from one bullet to the next.

If you have the tools, you can use just about any type of material, which is hard enough not to deform or wear quickly, just by drilling a hole large enough to accept the bullet tip to appx half way down onto the ogive.

Measuring the gauge and the cartridge to the base, will give you a consistent length to measure.

The method you show in the pic is great to ensure the loaded round will fit into your rifles magazine.

I went and bought the Hornady bullet comparator kit, grabbed one of my reloads and then opened my Lyman reloading manual, and I am back to square one... It doesn't list a measurement from the 'ogive', just an OAL. How can I find what the ogive measurement should be for 6.5 Creedmoor rounds?


Add your location to your profile. It will help on future answers.

From time to time and old fart gives up reloading. Usually because he died.

If you buy his everything in his loading room, his family will be delighted and ad you will have a good start.

My profile does list my location, in Calgary.
 
DB, that isn't how you measure overall length when you're measuring to correct seating depth, for the distance the bullet has to travel to enter the leade for best accuracy. Maybe you know this?

The tips on bullets are often different lengths, especially lead tip bullets and even the plastic inserts shown in your pic.

You can purchase a "Nut Gauge" which has six different size holes to engage the bullet on the OGIVE where the dimensions should be consistent from one bullet to the next.

If you have the tools, you can use just about any type of material, which is hard enough not to deform or wear quickly, just by drilling a hole large enough to accept the bullet tip to appx half way down onto the ogive.

Measuring the gauge and the cartridge to the base, will give you a consistent length to measure.

The method you show in the pic is great to ensure the loaded round will fit into your rifles magazine.
Click to expand...

DB wrote: I went and bought the Hornady bullet comparator kit, grabbed one of my reloads and then opened my Lyman reloading manual, and I am back to square one... It doesn't list a measurement from the 'ogive', just an OAL. How can I find what the ogive measurement should be for 6.5 Creedmoor rounds?
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The manual lists the "OVERALL ALL LENGTH" of the cartridge to show what will fit in "most" rifle magazines. That's all it's for.

The measurement I was going on about, on the ogive, is much more important to accuracy.

The OAL is a good place to start.

Rifle chambers are "different" from one model/manufacturer to the next.

Depending on the rifle, bullet seating depth and the distance it has to travel before engaging the leade/lands, while the base of the bullet is still being supported by the case mouth, can be extremely important when it pertains to accuracy.

Some rifles have chambers with very tight tolerances, which can get away with "FREE BORE" and still be accurate. Most don't.

Most recently manufactured rifles from North America, Europe and maybe a few others, now use CNC equipment and tooling with very tight tolerances, resulting in rifles which will even shoot off the shelf, commercial ammo well.

This is a relatively recent phenomena. Not long ago, buying any Nort American offering was hit and miss as far as accuracy potential goes.

Most rifles with generous chamber dimensions shoot best when the bullet base is still being held by the cartridge case mouth when the ogive engages the rifling.

This is all well and good, if your rifle's throat is short enough for this to happen, with the bullets you're shooting.

Manufacturers intentionally make the throats too long, creating a "free bore" situation, where the bullet has to "jump" a gap between the case mouth and the leade before engaging. This tends to cause accuracy issues in rifles with generous chamber dimensions.

Some of this issue can be resolved by fireforming your cases to the individual rifle and "neck sizing" only.

It doesn't solve the problem of a generous throat dimension, which allows propellant gases to escape around the bullet before it enters the leade, and causing very slight bullet "cant" on entry, which creates accuracy issues that are otherwise unexplainable.

The engineers in the past understood this issue and when they disigned their cartridges and chambers, they intentionally made "LONG NECKS" part of the design to alleviate the "jump" issue. Accuracy standards were much less aggressive then.

If the throat dimensions are cut very close to the bullet diameters, free bore becomes less of an issue.

The Europeans, who weren't dogged and curtailed by legalities and liabilities, "fixed" the freebore issue long before North American manufacturers, who mostly went out of business for one reason or another or were recently bought up by European and other off shore companies.

I'm only going to list one off shore manufacturer who caused the "standards" for throat dimensions to be changed in North American manufacturing, TIKKA. There were and are several others.

Most Tikka rifles have long throats and lots of free bore. However, they have tight chamber tolerances which allows the bullet to "jump'' into the leade without cant.

Bench Rest Shooters often seated the bullets in the necks so they would fully engage the leade when the cartridge was chambered, to reduce free bore effects completely. This can only happen when all other tolerances are extremely tight, or it becomes an unsafe condition. This is where fire forming and neck resizing only comes in.

I could go on and on but others can chime in and you need to find out what is required from "your rifle"
 
I went and bought the Hornady bullet comparator kit, grabbed one of my reloads and then opened my Lyman reloading manual, and I am back to square one... It doesn't list a measurement from the 'ogive', just an OAL. How can I find what the ogive measurement should be for 6.5 Creedmoor rounds?




My profile does list my location, in Calgary.

Man you have jumped in quickly, and almost too quickly without understanding a few fundamentals. I remember not long ago you were just purchasing a rifle, and now look at you go!

Personally I would slow down a bit and watch some you tube videos of the process, and more importantly why the process happens and go from there. You will have a better understanding of why things get done the way they do.

Plus, get a notebook or binder set up so you can record all your information. This will be invaluable as you go forward, and you will have reference points, if and when you want to change up things.

Gavin: Ultimate reloader is good with his videos.
,
,

Gun Blue is great:

Cortina, A professional shooter, has good tips as well.
, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRXlCG9YZbQ, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riVRHOog69g

Also a great amount of info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azv1dxKQNvA
 
Man you have jumped in quickly, and almost too quickly without understanding a few fundamentals. I remember not long ago you were just purchasing a rifle, and now look at you go!

Personally I would slow down a bit and watch some you tube videos of the process, and more importantly why the process happens and go from there. You will have a better understanding of why things get done the way they do.

Plus, get a notebook or binder set up so you can record all your information. This will be invaluable as you go forward, and you will have reference points, if and when you want to change up things.

Yeah, I think it is one of my weaknesses. Normally, I have friends or relatives that I can lean on and learn things from. This is the first time where I am basically having to learn on my own. I have been watching a TON of YT videos, so much so that I am probably on a few watch lists right now.

What I find frustrating, is that people make these "beginner" videos, but they all seem to take for granted that people have a good understanding of terminology. which means I feel like a complete idiot, having to look up the most basic of things.

On the plus side of it, my enthusiasm and go get em attitude, I HAVE learned a lot! I have managed to learn a lot about rifles and reloading. I mean, I am still a child knowledge wise, but, when I finally collect enough that something clicks, It comes in leaps and bounds and it is super exciting.
 
I hear ya on that.

I first reloaded back in the day with dad when I was 12 or so, and that only lasted for a few years, as other priorities as a young guy started to take over. Back then it was a much different understanding of reloading, and actually following the book numbers to the letter.

Only really got back into reloading maybe now 3 years ago. Tonnes of info out there, and I've already had great learning curves of my own. Experience is the ultimate teacher. Within my first year of loading I was shooting close to if not more than 1000 home made rounds, in about 4 calibers. The last year I have slowed down a bit, on the hunting rifles anyways and made a bench 6.5 CM that I shoot lots, and reload for lots. It has for sure paid off, to at worst make it more affordable to shoot. The first 1000m home rolled ammo impacts were just awesome to accomplish.

Stay safe in the process, as you hear of a few woops here and there!

Me I enjoy it tremendously and enjoy taking my loads to the outer edges and really push things, and yes still safely. I was pushing 139 gr lapua tips in the 6.5 CM 2950 fps, and have now settled them down to 2850 fps. Some argue that is beyond what the CM can do, well, here I am doing it with chrono data to prove it. I usually shoot 50 rounds stings when I sit down at the bench with the CM. 41.5 extreme spread, 8.2 standard deviation. Average speed 2950.8 fps for 50 rounds in short order. I mean shoot the 10 round mag, reload and shoot, for 50 trigger pulls. 26" heavy stainless spiral fluted IBI barrel.
 
I hear ya on that.

I first reloaded back in the day with dad when I was 12 or so, and that only lasted for a few years, as other priorities as a young guy started to take over. Back then it was a much different understanding of reloading, and actually following the book numbers to the letter.

Only really got back into reloading maybe now 3 years ago. Tonnes of info out there, and I've already had great learning curves of my own. Experience is the ultimate teacher. Within my first year of loading I was shooting close to if not more than 1000 home made rounds, in about 4 calibers. The last year I have slowed down a bit, on the hunting rifles anyways and made a bench 6.5 CM that I shoot lots, and reload for lots. It has for sure paid off, to at worst make it more affordable to shoot. The first 1000m home rolled ammo impacts were just awesome to accomplish.

Stay safe in the process, as you hear of a few woops here and there!

Me I enjoy it tremendously and enjoy taking my loads to the outer edges and really push things, and yes still safely. I was pushing 139 gr lapua tips in the 6.5 CM 2950 fps, and have now settled them down to 2850 fps. Some argue that is beyond what the CM can do, well, here I am doing it with chrono data to prove it. I usually shoot 50 rounds stings when I sit down at the bench with the CM. 41.5 extreme spread, 8.2 standard deviation. Average speed 2950.8 fps for 50 rounds in short order. I mean shoot the 10 round mag, reload and shoot, for 50 trigger pulls. 26" heavy stainless spiral fluted IBI barrel.
I would be lucky to shoot 50 in a day, nevermind one sitting LOL

I am trying to develop a load for my Weatherby Vanguard S2. Stupid thing has such a light barrel that it heats up REAL quick. The 3rd shot is iffy on if it will group with the first 2 or not due to how hot the barrel gets. So I shoot a group of 3, then wait 15 mins for the barrel to cool down, then rinse and repeat.

I kinda wish it had a slightly heavier barrel to allow for me to consistently shoot that 3rd shot without heat becoming a factor.
 
I would be lucky to shoot 50 in a day, nevermind one sitting LOL

I am trying to develop a load for my Weatherby Vanguard S2. Stupid thing has such a light barrel that it heats up REAL quick. The 3rd shot is iffy on if it will group with the first 2 or not due to how hot the barrel gets. So I shoot a group of 3, then wait 15 mins for the barrel to cool down, then rinse and repeat.

I kinda wish it had a slightly heavier barrel to allow for me to consistently shoot that 3rd shot without heat becoming a factor.
Need to get a barrel cooler, or solar power fan.
 
I picked up one of those usb rechargeable mattress fans a few years ago for barrel cooling. Had some clear plastic hose that fits great onto one of the attached tips that I slide up into the chamber of the rifle. Moves tonnes of air through it and cools up in short order. This is for when I load develop a hunting rifle, or setting up a new scope, and works great.
 
Well, I worked up my first load test for the Vanguard.

Bullet: Hornady 143gr ELD-X
Brass: Norma whitetail 6.5 creedmoor once fired
Primer: CCI large rifle magnum primers
Powder: Hodgdon Superformance

I have 5 rounds of each load. 39.5gr on the left, increasing each step by 0.5gr until the far right at 44gr.

Once I see where the rifle stabilizes for groupings, I will go back and work up another load, but with 0.2gr steps.

IMG_3630.jpeg
 
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