strong suggestion.I appreciate this response. Thank you. I’ll give up on the 25 yard idea and shoot at 100 instead. Wish me luck.![]()
All things considered, I am new to this. I know a bit - but some of the math is over my head for sure. I think the 20 MOA base was throwing things off for me. But ya, I think 25 yards is too close. I'll probably start at 50 (hit paper and dial in) and then move out to 100 from there.strong suggestion.
IF you are new to this, dont start the zeroing at 100, you'll waste ammo.
Start your zero at the 50 or even 25y range, just to get on paper. Then move to the 100 to fine tune.
Spent a while trying to spot for a new guy with a 6.5cm and razor. They didnt know anything about the scope, what mils were, the zero stop that was set too high etc. He wasted a bunch of boxes trying to get on paper. So start close then move out, conserve ammo,
It's really only and issue with scopes that have lower end adjustment range...40moa scope only has 20up and 20down, 50moa 25, ect.I ran into the same issue and discovered that a 20 Moa rail should be zeroed at 200. Once the scope was zeroed at 200 there was still elevation adjustment to spare
They are Nikon P-Series rings and the scope does not zero stop.a 20moa rail on its own shouldnt have this problem, unless you also have a 20moa rings?
what kind of rings are you using? Zero stop?
Yeah, I have a 20 moa rail on a rifle and easily bore sight at 80 & 100m. Lots of elevation leftover in the scope. It’s not even an expensive scope, just a 4-12x40 Nikon.a 20moa rail on its own shouldnt have this problem, unless you also have a 20moa rings?
what kind of rings are you using? Zero stop?
I've done this when required. Easiest was to buy a roll of graph paper from staples and some bright colored stick on target dots for aiming points. - danBore sight at 100 yd. and use a BIG sheet of paper. Your first shot if good will give you enough measurements to put the next one on a target for fine tuning!
Bill