CZ 457 models for long(er) distance
- Thread starter SPACEFORCE
- Start date
CanadianMohawk
Member
- Location
- Stittsville
If you're going to change both the stock and barrel, the Synthetic will do. I think just barreled action is even cheaper if you're going to mod from the start.
I'd suggest you get the At-One since it already has adjustable stock. You may not need/want to go any further with changes and the MTR chamber will help your accuracy in all distances. On the Rare (around here) 'calm day' I get sub-MOA at 100 and 50 yds in the .2s and .3s, using just SK-RM in my VMTR.
- Location
- ON, North of GTA
I shoot 200yrd with a 16" 10/22 with a red dot or irons.
Any CZ is gonna get you to 300 with ammo it likes and somewhat decent glass.
Learn your drops and either dial or hold if your reticle allows.
Any CZ is gonna get you to 300 with ammo it likes and somewhat decent glass.
Learn your drops and either dial or hold if your reticle allows.
May need to go used these were discontinued in 2021
any with the match chamber and heavy barrel... we have shot these to 400yds with excellent results.
be prepared for a scope with alot of elevation travel... 34mm tube is your friend. shim the crap out of the scope and have fun.
SK LRM has been used with great effect (lot dependent of course)... Lapua super long range may be worth the investment
enjoy.
Jerry
be prepared for a scope with alot of elevation travel... 34mm tube is your friend. shim the crap out of the scope and have fun.
SK LRM has been used with great effect (lot dependent of course)... Lapua super long range may be worth the investment
enjoy.
Jerry
Yup, any CZ will be fine out to 300y. You don't need a heavy barrel, chassis, or match chamber to ring steel repeatedly at that distance. My 452 Lux is fine and I also have 457 MTR.
I like a heavy barrel to decrease over heating, a verticle grip is nice, and a Match chamber seems like a good idea. So, if a range specific rifle I would go with whatever heavy barrel one I liked the ergonomics of, but if the rifle was primarily for hunting I would get a model focused on that as it will still plink at 300y.
(Edit: I think the 457 Varmint mentioned right off the bat is a great choice!)
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I have an older 455 Super Match 20" barrel. I have reached out to 300 yards yet but I am ready. I put the rifle in an Oryx added a straight grip, a modest trigger job, an extended tactical bolt handle and a rear bag rider, with as swiveling, tiltable bipod.
I realized by the adjustment available on my Riton 6 x 24 x 50 scope, zeroed at 20 yards on the zero stop, I was not going to be able to dial it up much past 200 yards. I looked at the down adjustment I had left, and it was 55 MOA. I installed an MDT 40 MOA rail (amazing fit, just like the chassis). Since the rail added a bit of height, I went to shorter steel weaver rings so line of sight above the bore is similar to what it was pre-rail. I dialed the scope to where I figured it should be and at 20 yards at the range a couple of clicks adjustment for both windage and elevation were all that was needed. Once the zero-stop was reset, I dialed it up all the way, and now have a total of 60 moa (240 clicks) of up travel available. The rifle before the installation, depending on the ammo, 5-6 MOA to shoot to zero at 100 yards; which leaves me with 55 MOA to play with.
If you get a good deal on a nice, used 455 (they take the same barrels), it should shoot as well as a 457, and if you are going to change out the stock and other bits and pieces, it will serve you well.
I realized by the adjustment available on my Riton 6 x 24 x 50 scope, zeroed at 20 yards on the zero stop, I was not going to be able to dial it up much past 200 yards. I looked at the down adjustment I had left, and it was 55 MOA. I installed an MDT 40 MOA rail (amazing fit, just like the chassis). Since the rail added a bit of height, I went to shorter steel weaver rings so line of sight above the bore is similar to what it was pre-rail. I dialed the scope to where I figured it should be and at 20 yards at the range a couple of clicks adjustment for both windage and elevation were all that was needed. Once the zero-stop was reset, I dialed it up all the way, and now have a total of 60 moa (240 clicks) of up travel available. The rifle before the installation, depending on the ammo, 5-6 MOA to shoot to zero at 100 yards; which leaves me with 55 MOA to play with.
If you get a good deal on a nice, used 455 (they take the same barrels), it should shoot as well as a 457, and if you are going to change out the stock and other bits and pieces, it will serve you well.
I have owned both the Oryx and the XRS. If you think you might do NRL/PRS/CRPS/ORPS shooting off of props you should hands down go with an XRS or Bravo. This is because the Oryx takes monkey business to add weights and the other two have lots of options.
If you are shooting mainly prone and from a bench, then the Oryx is fine and you can set it up with a verticle grip. All three will hold the action solid and provide many adjustment options to get it tuned in.
My personal opinion is that the XRS is the bomb, I would get another.
(Edit: make sure you add up all the options you wanna buy, the Oryx can get close to the XRS once you add a verticle grip and bag rider... you also are stuck with the MDT ARCA rail as the forend is curved and doesn't easily adapt to a cheap amazon rail or area 419).
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I have my 457 in an MDT LSS Gen 2. The only thing I wish it had was a longer fore-end for adding more weights. I put on a longer ARCA rail to push my bipod out further. I recently started shooting it off a SEB AR250 rest for 100m and am really enjoying it. This rifle started off as a regular varmint model and has been heavily customized from there.
My 10/22 is in an ORYX. It's a good chassis, but a bunch of the parts for it are oryx specific, and aren't compatible with other MDT chassis systems. That may not matter to you if you aren't running multiple setups.
Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of the MDT chassis'. They are all very well built and have lots of options to customize. For rimfire I think the LSS, Oryx, or XRS are your best value options before you get into the really expensive premier ones or other high end chassis systems. I have 4 of them and use them all regularly (XRS and TIMBR on my 6.5 creedmoor rifles). We're getting close to their black friday sale, which usually has decent discounts for new chassis systems, but you can get HUGE savings when they put up factory seconds for sale. They are new, but have some kind of aesthetic defect. I picked up my TIMBR for 60% off last year.
