Reloading shotgun shells; brass vs plastic hulls

ThisIsMyBoomstick

ThisIsMyBoomstick

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Morning,

I've been wanting for invest in reloading and I thought it would be best to start with shotgun ammunition as it seems simpler over all. Is there any advantage / disadvantage to investing in brass shotgun hulls vs plastic? Aside from reduce/reuse that is.

And, referencing my previous thread about rifled shotguns, is there a cost savings (or is it even a feasibility) to reloading sabot?

Thank you.
 
the brass shells have thinner walls and require larger wads/cards/gas seals/shotcups which may not be readily available.
they also require more powder but load data is scarce.
on the bright side, they last forever.
 
Go to a local trap/skeet shooting range and see if you can buy once fired hulls
Pick up a used Lee Load All or Mec 600 reloading press once you've mastered reloading then you may want to consider reloading brass hulls but as others have said reloading componets for them are scarce.
 
Good advice, so far. Like others, I would not recommend starting out, by attempting to reload brass hulls. Though not difficult, they do require a slightly different approach, from loading plastic. Have loaded plenty of both, so do have some understanding how each differs and performs.

As IvoB recommends, it's better to master the reloading process first, before attempting to load brass hulls. In many cases, these are loaded nearly exclusively with black powder. Which again, often involves a bit different process, from loading smokeless. Also, a greater understanding how each propellant performs. Which takes some time to master. It being highly dangerous in some cases, to randomly throw shotshell components together.

Also, if loading 12 gauge brass hulls, for example...some components....like wads... are generally about one gauge larger, than standard 12 gauge. So, 11 gauge, and so on. To compensate for the difference in wall thickness. Something that won't be found at your local gunshop. All components are available. But, will need to be special ordered. Likewise: Hulls.

If you're going to start reloading shot shells, plastic would be the easiest to master. Plenty of load data available. Both in manual form. Or online: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center, for example, being an excellent resource for shotshell load data.
Components are generally readily available. Though some, like powder and primers for example, may be in limited supply, right now Also, plastic hulls are far cheaper than brass. Plus, easier to source.

One good source for plastic hulls, is to simply save your own, once-fired from factory ammo. Also: If you belong to a shooting range that features trap, etc., many times you can source a nearly unlimited supply of good, once fired hulls, that other shooters discard. Have scrounged hundreds of these, for free. Alternately, once-fired hulls are available for sale, at low cost. Depending on the hull and load, plastic hulls can often be reloaded a number of times.

As far as loading saboted shotgun rounds are concerned, it's unlikely you'll save much money, reloading your own. Unless you have a source of cheap components. Or, can make some of your own...ie: cast your own slugs, ball, etc. The real advantage of loading your own comes in the ability to tailor your reloads to attain optimum performance in your gun.

Hope this info is useful:

Al
 
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I load both plastic and brass. If you are shooting 12ga, plastic is the way to go as you can get all the once fired hulls you could possibly want for free at any trap/skeet range. Other gauges hulls are not as easily found and are rarely free. I shoot brass in my .410 because they were not expensive (bought a pile of once fired hulls.303 British and fire formed them for .410) mostly because I shoot black powder in my .410 and plastic hulls are only good for 1 shot with black and they are done.
 
There ate two types of brass shells basically, drawn brass and turned brass.
You can buy turned brass shells that take a 209 primer and model wads
They are expensive however, and if you Want to shoot Smokeless, plastic is far more realistic.
Mag Tech cases are drawn and use a large pistol primer they also take a wad one size bigger than the case ie. 10 guage wads for a 12 gauge cases
Brass is much more advantageous if one wants to shoot black powder because
A: black powder and plastic make for huge problems with wads leaving large amounts of plastic fouling in the barrel.
B: BP tends to harden and burn the plastics shell mouths .
I load both but keep the brass for my vintage BP shotguns.

Cat
 

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iron cat said:
A: black powder and plastic make for huge problems with wads leaving large amounts of plastic fouling in the barrel.
B: BP tends to harden and burn the plastics shell mouths .
I load both but keep the brass for my vintage BP shotguns.

Cat
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I believe there are plastic wads available specifically for black powder (won’t melt). I load my BP shot shells the same way I load my muzzleloader shotguns, powder, over powder card wad (cut from a milk carton), 1/8” felt wad, 1/8” felt wad soaked in bear grease/bees wax mix, another card wad, shot, then a card over shot wad, then seal the top with bees wax dripped into the mouth of the case from a candle. I sometimes then press a number stamp into the wax to denote the shot size.
 
DancesWithEmptyCasings said:
After period of debate on this.i decided to stick with plastic hills. Cheaper and less logistics
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Honestly, I can not think of an intrinsic reason to use brass in a 12ga. As you suggest, cheaper to load (no cost for hulls) and way easier to load with off the shelf wads and a good single stage press. Personally, I use a MEC 600jr to load my 28ga hulls. Works very well but I don’t think you can go wrong with any of the typical shotshell loaders.
 
Licensed to kill said:
I believe there are plastic wads available specifically for black powder (won’t melt). I load my BP shot shells the same way I load my muzzleloader shotguns, powder, over powder card wad (cut from a milk carton), 1/8” felt wad, 1/8” felt wad soaked in bear grease/bees wax mix, another card wad, shot, then a card over shot wad, then seal the top with bees wax dripped into the mouth of the case from a candle. I sometimes then press a number stamp into the wax to denote the shot size.
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I quit lubingvwFs many years ago as I didn't find any difference in fouling when using BP shot shells, and I use wasp nest now for my muzzle loaders
I write my load data on the overshot wad.
If there are plastic wads for BP , I have never seen them, but they old likely only work with turned brass cases not drawn brass.
Cat
 

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It has been many years since I saw the BP wads (have never used them). They were black in colour. However, if one was inclined to load BP shot shells and use a “shotcup” type wad, I imagine that a simple over powder wad under the plastic wad would mitigate the melting issue. Hornet best works well for wading, as is newspaper (with a robust overpowder wad).
 
Alex McKr said:
If you're going to start reloading shot shells, plastic would be the easiest to master. Plenty of load data available. Both in manual form. Or online: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center, for example, being an excellent resource for shotshell load data.
Components are generally readily available. Though some, like powder and primers for example, may be in limited supply, right now Also, plastic hulls are far cheaper than brass. Plus, easier to source.
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Thanks Alex Very comprehensive. Regarding your comment on powder and primers, I'm guessing because our supply of both is typically from beyond our border? If so, here's hoping for a domestic producer in the near future.
 
ThisIsMyBoomstick said:
Thanks Alex Very comprehensive. Regarding your comment on powder and primers, I'm guessing because our supply of both is typically from beyond our border? If so, here's hoping for a domestic producer in the near future.
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209 primers are not difficult to source and are typically much cheaper than large rifle primers. Wads are also easy to source. The problematic components are powder and shot. Powder is hard to find for the same reason as large rifle primers……wars overseas demanding most/all manufacturing capacity. Not a lot of shotshells being loaded to fight wars. Shot can be difficult to find at a reasonable price due to the ridiculous shipping rates of late.
 
Quite true...some shotshell loading components are difficult to source, right now. My sympathy goes out to those folks who are stuck paying exorbitant shipping rates, for lead shot. But, at least it's still available. I count myself very fortunate to have a stable shot supplier, a short drive away. Does help with some of the cost.

Powder seems in short supply, across the board. Though not entirely unavailable. Hodgdon: Perfect Pattern, for example, seems readily available. Great powder for 7/8-1 oz shot payloads, in my experience. I've been loading a fair bit of it, as Clays...my longtime favourite, is currently unobtainium.
Wads are in plentiful supply. Claybuster, for example. Primers seem touch and go. Some brands of 209 primers...Cheddite, and lately: Ginex, are available. Other brands, ie: WW 209...not so much. Though I am seeing some. Likewise: CCI and Federal. Depending on the individual store.

ThisisMyBoomstick: Don't give up hope. Everything you need is available. It just takes a bit more careful shopping around than before, to find all the right bits and pieces.

Al
ps: If you can get your hands on some Super Handicap powder, this is one of the hardest hitting powders I've used, with 1-oz shot payloads. Can easily duplicate WW Light Handicap factory loads. Makes quick work of small game like bunnies, too.
 
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