Scope power differences question.
- Thread starter Bloodshot
- Start date
Hand Skills
CGN Regular
- Location
- In the 'heartland', southern SK
Most brands that sell scopes don't actually make the scopes, they just commission them.
Specifications dont tell much when it comes to optical quality or mechanical reliability
If you can 'handle them', I'd test visuals like across the store or even 'across the street' if they have a window you can use. And see how you think the weight will be for your use. The 56 should be brighter but as said they may come from different mfrs even within the same 'brand'. I have a couple Cabelas Covenant-4 6-24x50 FFPs that have held up fine for 7-8 years on 22LR, but I've read and talked to people who went thru a couple before they gave up on Covs. I'd guess the 'new' Covenant-5s are from a diff mfr, too.
Size of bell matters in so far as the exit light beam size at a given magnification will be larger with the larger bell making it slightly easier to find with the eye... or keep in the pupil. 24-28 magnification I would prefer a 56 and with max 20 mag a 50mm works well. Saying that some scopes are so lousy that it doesn't really matter.
edi
edi
Lens coatings matter more than Lens quality , as far as light transmission is concerned.
They won't be exactly the same. The magnification range is different (5-25 uses a 5x erector assembly, 4-28 uses a 7x erector assembly) so they are not "the same" internally, even if they are a part of the same range.
A 5-25x56mm scope will gather more light and distort the edges of the glass less than a 4-28x50, all other things being perfectly equal. Whether or not you can tell a significant difference is dependent on you, more than anything.
Sloped Roof Specialist
Regular
Have to consider tube diameter too… makes a difference for light transmission (bigger is better) and weight (bigger is heavier.
If you’re just starting out, a 30mm tube will be more than enough, and staying away from the 34-35mm tubes will save you lots of money.
The Vortex Nation Podcast has some great episodes on choosing…
SRS
If you’re just starting out, a 30mm tube will be more than enough, and staying away from the 34-35mm tubes will save you lots of money.
The Vortex Nation Podcast has some great episodes on choosing…
SRS
Possible height difference with a different objective size -
Ideally, once you've taken a strong cheek-weld on the stock, your eye is aligned with the scope. A scope with a smaller objective may be able to be mounted with lower height rings. Then again, a cheek riser can raise your eye position.
Ideally, once you've taken a strong cheek-weld on the stock, your eye is aligned with the scope. A scope with a smaller objective may be able to be mounted with lower height rings. Then again, a cheek riser can raise your eye position.
Tube diameter has no effect on light transmission, larger tube diameter allows more reticle adjustment.
Sloped Roof Specialist
Regular
Is it not both?
indeed, many cheap scopes are not usable near the high end of their magnification range
especially those with a high range (4-28 is a 7x range)
No, the Human eye can only take in so much light , it can dilate to only about 7mm.
the exit pupil ( the width of the beam of light leaving the eye piece) is calculated by dividing the objective lens size by the magnification power.
However, if the human eye can only dilate to about 7mm, anything larger than that is a moot point.
Cat
