MosinMan13: The markings are only decorative. As brybenn mentions, the markings around the barrels are there simply to cover the join of barrels to monobloc. The internals and operation of the shotgun will be the same.
Do you know whether the shotgun is in original condition? Or, has it been modified to any degree...ie: lighter springs, etc. As it would likely be, if used for cowboy action competition.
Note: As infidel29 mentions, this could also be a Boito. Essentially the same gun. I believe both are manufactured by E.R. Amantino, in Brazil.
These inexpensive guns are not fitted together with much care at the factory. So will often need a few basic tweaks to get them operating smoothly. If you do spot a few of the problems listed below....these can be easily addressed. Overall, the guns are pretty sturdy and hold up well, when cared for properly.
Likely the most important thing to look out for, is the fit of the bolt to the locking lugs. The rear lug, in particular. The bolt should engage as much of the lug as possible, to ensure good lock up. There will be a distinct mark on the lug, where the bolt makes contact.
Ideally, the bolt should engage at least 1/2 of the lug's locking surface. Though most stock guns won't, unless cleaned up a bit.
Anything less than that, then there is the chance that the bolt may bounce back a bit, under recoil. Which disengages the bolt, causing the gun's action to open slightly. Then, it will not fire, until fully closed again. Usually happens with the second barrel. Most often, the cause of this is from a too-light bolt spring. Usually when too many coils are snipped off the spring. Coupled with a poorly engaging bolt.
If so, this problem can be addressed by either replacing the spring. Or, carefully polishing the contact surfaces of both bolt and lug. Or both.
If the gun is very stiff to open(quite common, especially with new Stoegers), careful polishing of the action knuckles(where the forearm iron joins the action), will usually ease opening force considerably. Not hard to do. Usually, 400-grit sandpaper does the job, nicely. Remember...you're just polishing the contact surfaces. Not removing metal.
Caution: If the gun opens easily: Refrain from allowing the barrels to drop open on their own. This puts a lot of strain on the barrel hook. Which can fail, with repeated abuse. It's always a good idea to control the barrels, with the control hand.
Another possible problem: firing pins. Stoeger firing pins tend to be a bit on the soft side. So, their ends often dub over with heavy use. This can cause misfires, from light primer strikes. Not easy to spot, on a used gun. I recommend swapping out the pins, as one of the first tweaks to the gun.
Luckily, this is an easy fix. Replace the pins with a set of stainless steel firing pins. These can be ordered through Rusty Wood Trading, here in Canada.
These...plus replacement aftermarket springs( a bit lighter than factory) . Plus, a small, three-pin spanner for removing the firing pin bushings, can also be ordered through Longhunter Supply. Ships to Canada.
By the way, to change out the bolt spring...an 11 mm socket on a long extension easily removes the bolt for stock removal. There are several you tube videos that demonstrate how to remove and re-install the bolt spring. Not hard to do.
Lastly, check for cracks in the stock, immediately behind the top strap. These guns aren't Purdeys, so stock to action fit isn't all that careful.
That's pretty much the basics.
Hope this helps.
Al
