Remington Model 7 SS

I have a replacement firing pin/ bolt shroud assembly coming from Big Horn for mine. I think the forend barrel channel is contacting the barrel on the left side, during recoil, gonna relieve that today. I also added a slip on recoil pad overtop of the Limbsaver pad and it's now the perfect length for me.
I took the rifle out of the stock last night for inspection and whoever owned it last had tightened the main action screw so damned tight that I had to use my 3/4" drive ratchet to back it off. My Wheeler torque wrench was maxed out and wouldn't budge it at 70 inch/pounds!! Kind of annoying.
 
Wow thats crazy tight.
Good purchase on the Gre-Tan. Gary at Bighorn Sales is great to deal with. Watch the Gre-Tan video on youtube on installation. Be sure to clean all the old grease from inside of the bolt before installing the new shroud / pin assembly. I find the long wooden Q-tips work pretty good for that. Cheap on Amazon. Keep the grease away from the spring, just a small amount on the thread. I use Loctite LB8009 grease. Keep us posted on the tinkering. Recommend a TriggerTech replacement as well if happy the way it shoots. Cheers
 
The Remington Model Seven is a very appealing rifle. Lightweight and chambered in fine small cartridges, suffice for any big game. A hunter dosen't go wrong when this rifle is cradled in their arms. Great find OP!
 
I relieved the barrel channel quite a bit, could see where someone had been trying to do the same, but they didn't go far enough. I found rub marks on the barrel where it had been touching so now there is no touchy. I used a half round rasp and a half round file. Still might need to remove a bit more but better to do it in stages
I disassembled the bolt and was quite surprised at the amount of gunk and crap inside the bolt body and in the spring itself. 1000005039.jpg1000005040.jpg
 
I am thinking of installing a pressure point in the forend, probably use a hunk of rubber with some 5 minute epoxy.
 
guntech said:
Extremely light factory barrels as the Model 7 and the Mountain rifles Remington offer are not condusive to good accuracy. If you can get under 1.5 inches for 3 shot groups at 100 yards be happy... that's all you need.

Some "J" locks can be engaged without the key, but they require the key to disengage them... pain in the ass... the majority of owners replace them with a conventional firing pin/shroud assembly.
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I agree,
With the caveat that i was able to shoot sub moa, even 1/2 moa with my R700 mountain, Model 7 and sako finnlight, if i waited a good long time between shots.

I mean i cud usually get the first two very close but the third was often what opened the group.

If i waited 10 minutes or so between shots, i cud stack 3 “cold bore” shots on top of eachother with handloads.

Since 2 is all u shud ever need hunting, that is for sure good enough.

But i have sold all of my light barreled rifles but one for this reason.

Edit: all those guns were picky about ammo too. The R700 mountain ss liked light bullets cranked up. 130gr 308 at 3000 plus.
The model 7 in 7-08 liked lighter stuff too.
The finnlight loved 168’s in 308.
Go figure.
 
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Cole said:
I relieved the barrel channel quite a bit, could see where someone had been trying to do the same, but they didn't go far enough. I found rub marks on the barrel where it had been touching so now there is no touchy. I used a half round rasp and a half round file. Still might need to remove a bit more but better to do it in stages
I disassembled the bolt and was quite surprised at the amount of gunk and crap inside the bolt body and in the spring itself. View attachment 937651View attachment 937653
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I use a socket set.
There is usually a large variety of diameters with very gradual increases in size.

Wrap them with sandpaper and run them lengthwise.

I’ve had great results with this method on a variety of stock materials
 
Cole said:
I am thinking of installing a pressure point in the forend, probably use a hunk of rubber with some 5 minute epoxy.
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Those factory synthetic stocks already have a pressure point. Did the former owner remove it? My 7 shot better with a B&C stock with a bedding block and no barrel contact. Unfortunately I didn’t like the thick wrist on it and sold that stock.
 
Sask Bearman said:
Use something temporary before making it permanent with epoxy.
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I float the barrel, then I wrap electrical tape around the barrel, test fire, then add wraps, until I see the best results. I count the wraps, as I apply them, so I can duplicate them to crate a permanent pressure point with bedding compound if desired.
 
The most consistently accurate factory rifle I’ve ever owned is a Rem M-7 .223 SS. It will put 3 rounds of 50gr Hornady bullets over 26 grs of WW 760 into the low .2’s. Bone stock with a cleaned up crown via a carbide cutter ball
 
Took it to my shooting spot, and tried it put again. I was able to get 2 shots in an inch but then everything went elsewhere's. Tried inserting shimms and no change in accuracy , maybe made it worse.
I think the scope might be poopped so I took it off and put my old Leupold 4-12x40 Rifleman on it and it bore sighted pretty easily. I can't wait until I get the GRE-TAN firing pin/shroud thing next week.
If it doesn't show improvement , it will be traded in on a Tikka T3x Compact in same caliber.
 
Cole said:
Took it to my shooting spot, and tried it put again. I was able to get 2 shots in an inch but then everything went elsewhere's. Tried inserting shimms and no change in accuracy , maybe made it worse.
I think the scope might be poopped so I took it off and put my old Leupold 4-12x40 Rifleman on it and it bore sighted pretty easily. I can't wait until I get the GRE-TAN firing pin/shroud thing next week.
If it doesn't show improvement , it will be traded in on a Tikka T3x Compact in same caliber.
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Hey, not to be a tool but Likely,
You are chasing your tail.

Thin whippy barrels heat up very quickly and all of the ones I have owned (R700 mountain SS, Sako Finnlight, Kimber Mtn Ascent, and Kimber Hunter) have shown heat effect in grouping even three rounds.

Try waiting 10-12 minuted between each of three shots. I was able to achieve sub MOA groups with all of those guns using this method.

Any rifle that needs to be “shimmed” as opposed to free floated to IMPROVE accuracy will have very low accuracy expectations and should be disposed of.
 
351 power said:
Shims or pressure points are not a bad thing. A thin light weight barrel is not meant for target matches. Respectfully the m7 is mostly a hunting rifle. Two shots in an inch in a hunt will be enough imo
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For sure.
All my whippy rifles shot the first two well.
But shimming a rifle to shoot well creates a goldilocks scenario.

U have to do it all over again if u change loads.
 
That might be true. My experience with the two rifles I have that have specific pressure points don't seem to have a lot of variance. One is a rem 7 the other is a 700. Other rifles I have that are not free floated at all also shoot pretty good. For sure every rifle is different. First rifle I ever had that used a pressure point I was aware of was a 700 ADL in 6 mm rem. Very good rifle I should have kept. It was older and had some things done to it over the years so that it was used for competitive shoots back when guys crossed the border for turkey shoots and stuff. It had a small felt pad near the end of the barrel. I was young and had to ask some questions about that. I can remember loading 100g RN bullets and H4831 for it. Wish I had it back
 
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