Miroku o/u id help
- Thread starter Crowbar64
- Start date
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Difficult to say, Miroku has been making similar looking shotguns with various different features and levels of finish since WWII.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
He might be correct but the reason that I hesitate to say is because all of the Miroku O/U guns were based on a modified version of the Browning Superposed and therefore the receivers are basically all the same with (like I said) various finishes and features.
The year of manufacture can be determined from the serial number and that may help to narrow the model down.
The year of manufacture can be determined from the serial number and that may help to narrow the model down.
The year of manufacture can be determined from serial number for Browning shotguns manufactured by Miroku.
I don't believe that there is a serial number vs date chart for Miroku brand shotguns.
Leeroysramblings website has information on model changes of earlier Miroku/Charles Daly shotguns to identify correct parts, but it includes considerable speculation.
I don't believe that there is a serial number vs date chart for Miroku brand shotguns.
Leeroysramblings website has information on model changes of earlier Miroku/Charles Daly shotguns to identify correct parts, but it includes considerable speculation.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
They were only made from around 1960 to 1976 and the serial numbers ended a little over 700,000 so I'd guess your gun to be from the mid 60's give or take.
I have read some time back that a hurricane hit the Miroku factory in 1972 and destroyed all the records up to that date so precise information on serial numbers is scarce at best.
I have read some time back that a hurricane hit the Miroku factory in 1972 and destroyed all the records up to that date so precise information on serial numbers is scarce at best.
Yes..is with the Browning O/U's as well. Far right of center is best, bit right is good, centered means shot a lot, left of center = time for some new parts to get er back to Rt of center !
One of my buds has an old Browning Super Sporting(IIRC)...been shot forever, all the way to hell & back !
Soon as you moved the lever to open it..the barrel fell hard open !
Dropped it at TGD and they rebuilt it....the top lever is back to way right...move it to open it..and nothing happens..lol You need to "bend it again" just like new, once again.
One of my buds has an old Browning Super Sporting(IIRC)...been shot forever, all the way to hell & back !
Soon as you moved the lever to open it..the barrel fell hard open !
Dropped it at TGD and they rebuilt it....the top lever is back to way right...move it to open it..and nothing happens..lol You need to "bend it again" just like new, once again.
Well - That gun has two possible issues:
1) Hinge is worn (as mentioned in ad)
2) Receiver locking lug is worn (as shown in pic)
To remedy both would cost a lot more than 475$. Note: A detailed inspection would be needed to ascertain actual mechanical condition.
1) Hinge is worn (as mentioned in ad)
2) Receiver locking lug is worn (as shown in pic)
To remedy both would cost a lot more than 475$. Note: A detailed inspection would be needed to ascertain actual mechanical condition.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Top lever position is indeed important but I think it's worth mentioning that the picture showing it is slightly canted so it may not be a good indicator of the actual position.
The best way to tell if the locking block is worn out is to close the gun firmly, if there is a hint of vibration both in feel and sound then the locking block is worn out. No vibration means that it is probably not worn out and there is no way to tell just how long it will last but if the lever is right of center even a little bit then it's likely got a lot of life left in it.
The life expectancy of the locking block is greatly dependent on how well it was fitted in the first place and how well it was cleaned and lubed. Factory locking blocks are usually fitted quite well but if the gun has had a new block installed the workmanship can vary which can affect the longevity of it.
As far as cost goes, a locking block and hinge pin should be under $1k but I could be wrong.
The best way to tell if the locking block is worn out is to close the gun firmly, if there is a hint of vibration both in feel and sound then the locking block is worn out. No vibration means that it is probably not worn out and there is no way to tell just how long it will last but if the lever is right of center even a little bit then it's likely got a lot of life left in it.
The life expectancy of the locking block is greatly dependent on how well it was fitted in the first place and how well it was cleaned and lubed. Factory locking blocks are usually fitted quite well but if the gun has had a new block installed the workmanship can vary which can affect the longevity of it.
As far as cost goes, a locking block and hinge pin should be under $1k but I could be wrong.
Sure - The whole thing is a bit subjective. Unless you can release the top lever when the action is open. This allows you to see the fully "bottomed out" position of the locking lug. You can compare this to the position with the action closed, giving one an idea of how much life is left in the action.
