Removing stripped threads

The impact drivers work pretty good
A few years back I was having issues removing the side cover on a Yamaha banshee because the Philips head was stripped on a few screws and the impact driver worked very well
Not sure how it would work on such a small screw though
 
Buck1950 said:
"Impact Driver" - "... The tool imparts rotation when hit and this, along with the downward shock will often break loose stuck screws IF the head isn’t buggered up TOO bad...." This worked great to bust loose the trans-case of my Norton Commando. . . 50 years ago 😉 Likely a bit much for OP's prob. https://www.princessauto.com/en/9-pc-manual-impact-driver-set/product/PA0008840191
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Impact drivers work well most of the time snd would likely have worked well in the case of the OP. In fact, a friend recently had a tang screw on a ‘95 Marlin and an impact driver worked well. Most people don’t have an impact driver. Most guys have a drill press and, IMO, the drill press is a safer/better option if you have one. Impact driver is a great suggestion though. (I was going to add that but could not recall what they are called ). 👍
 
Deathrawt said:
The impact drivers work pretty good
A few years back I was having issues removing the side cover on a Yamaha banshee because the Philips head was stripped on a few screws and the impact driver worked very well
Not sure how it would work on such a small screw though
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Japanese stuff don’t use philips anything that’s why they get messed up. jis drivers and bits are easy to find nowadays
 
I have always wondered if they made smaller impact drivers more suited to this type of delicate work - smacking a sight base with a deadblow hammer is not something I would like to resort to.
 
fingers284 said:
The post by License is the best post in this thread. I have used the "down pressure with a drill press" a couple of times with success and also the end mill. with the end mill very much care must be exercised to only cut the screw heads off, leaving enough screw shank to grip with pliers after removing base.
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Working as an aircraft metalworker, we actually had a screw removal tool, that used this exact principle. It used an adjacent screw hole as an anchor point, and a lever to apply the pressure as you turned the driver bit. https://b2b.snapon.com/productDetails/883508/2/888783

For the likes of a slot screw head (also works on pretty much any other stripped out screw head) like that, one trick I used to good effect, is to use a Dremel or air pencil grinder, with a carbide dental burr (the bits the Dentist use, to carve your teeth for removing cavities) and carefully make a bigger, uglier, deeper enough, slot. then carry on per normal. Figure the screw is buggered anyway, not a thing to lose if due care is taken not to ruin anything else.

On Impact Drivers, you must insure that the driver is going to turn the correct direction when struck! It is not obvious, and unless you know to check, the CAN be set to provide their magic in either direction. To check, place the driver tip against safe surface and press down hard while watching the rotation of the bit as you press, If the turn is in the wrong direction, you have to flip the driver to the other side of the cam. I find that sticking a Cresent wrench on the drive square works really well.
 
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trevj said:
Working as an aircraft metalworker, we actually had a screw removal tool, that used this exact principle. It used an adjacent screw hole as an anchor point, and a lever to apply the pressure as you turned the driver bit. https://b2b.snapon.com/productDetails/883508/2/888783
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For the low low Snap-On tool truck price of $576 and sixty cents. But, if that is the tool to keep the airplane airworthy and doesn't damage anything else, that's the pricetag for success.
 
Seeing that post 13 was the right answer, all further comments are conversational.

Part of me wondered if the sight base which surrounded the mangled screw head wasn't the next candidate for some delicate hacksaw cuts and smacks with a chisel? Cut into the base near but not on the screw, then fracture the base with a wedge-tipped chisel. Bracing the barrel very solidly of course.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
For the low low Snap-On tool truck price of $576 and sixty cents. But, if that is the tool to keep the airplane airworthy and doesn't damage anything else, that's the pricetag for success.
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The Forces had a lot of problems, but being too cheap to buy a really well thought out tool, was NOT one of them!

In the Grand Scheme, in my day job, I made parts that saved the CF from scrapping parts that were in the hundreds of thousands in value. It kinda makes the scale of cost look pretty efficient.
maple_leaf_eh said:
Seeing that post 13 was the right answer, all further comments are conversational.

Part of me wondered if the sight base which surrounded the mangled screw head wasn't the next candidate for some delicate hacksaw cuts and smacks with a chisel? Cut into the base near but not on the screw, then fracture the base with a wedge-tipped chisel. Bracing the barrel very solidly of course.
Click to expand...
Folks well beyond the Original Poster, will be able to read and learn options from the various suggestions.

That ain't bad.
 
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