10 x 42 $300 to $500

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Leavenworth

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Okay I know I’m asking a lot for that low of a price point but is there anything out there at that price point that’s decent ?

I had another thread going and asked about the Burris Droptine . What about the Leupold BX 2 Alpine ?
Thanks !
 
I've only used 8x42s but used to have a Vortex Diamondback in and it was good. I upgraded to a Viper and while it's better, I don't think the Diamonback was too far behind.

My son has a Nikon Monarch M5 in 8x42 and I think it's somewhere between those two Vortex models, also in your price range

I think 10x42 in either a Diamondback or M5 would be pretty good.
 
I bought a pair of Diamondback 10x42 binoculars just over 2 years ago and am very happy with them. They have generous eye relief which allow me to use them with prescription glasses. I have used them on long days of prairie dog shooting in Alberta.
 
Leavenworth said:
Okay I know I’m asking a lot for that low of a price point but is there anything out there at that price point that’s decent ?

I had another thread going and asked about the Burris Droptine . What about the Leupold BX 2 Alpine ?
Thanks !
Click to expand...
As a retired Leupold dealer I sold piles of Leupold scopes and binoculars, as well as spotting scopes.

The Leupold BX-2 Alpine Binoculars are a decent set of glass. Price point was right in those days, and I only had one pair that needed replacement under warranty in hundreds of them. I think I sold close to 300 sets in four years.

Burris Droptine binos were the second most popular models I sold. They too are very good for the money. The Leupolds were a little clearer and had nicer glass.

Vortex is junk from my experience, although not a pile of experience, but I know they are sold with a good warranty because you will use it. In addition, most Vortex entry to mid level anything is Chinese sh!t. Only once you get into Philippines' and Japanese glass they do get better. And then the price sky-rockets. So in my humble opinion, stay away from Vortex.

Nikon glass is very, very nice. I've had a few different models of Nikon binoculars and scopes. They are crystal clear, and back then they were Philippines glass as well.

For me, the rule of thumb is usually this:

Chinese glass is junk and should be avoided.
Philippines and Japanese glass always seem to be top quality.

I think you cannot go wrong with Leupold, Burris, or Nikon. They all make very nice and clear glass with lifetime warranties.

Good luck on your decision......:)
 
Another vote for the Nikon Monarchs (I think they are M5s now?). They have been a goto in this price range for a decade or two now.

Pentax binos are also great value but I prefer the Nikon... but that is my eyes.

Athlon continues to punch well above their price point but they tend to be heavier for the given dimensions. The UHD glass is definitely better when looking for fine detail at distance... but this glass is heavier.

If you are ok with a higher mag... 12X50 UHD, give me a shout as I have an Athlon demo in your price range. Mysticprecison@gmail.com

Jerry
 
OP, once you settle on the brand to get - if you have not used 10 power binos before - a bit tricky to hold still enough for any length of time - the image starts to shake and go blurry - that is probably you. So, plan to sit down with your back against something solid - minimize the upper body sway and movement. If you wear a ball cap - put your fingers above and hold the binos to the underside of the cap brim - that helps to stabilize the binos and keep them in line with your head - perhaps the cap might take some of the weight as well. It will come with practice - it just takes time before you can spend 1/2 hour or more glassing something. I found that old time 7x35 or newer 8x40 did about all that I needed with minimum fuss, but those techniques help, even with the lesser magnifications. Maybe modern optics have figured out how to offset those phenomena - I do not know.

Do not think that binos are only needed for far distance - I use mine all the time in the bush - my eyes seem caught up with the branches and twigs that I see - with binos, I can see way in behind that stuff - I have seen many critters back there that were watching me, that I had no clue were there. It actually gives you a fright the first time you see a timber wolf that has you "dead to rights" and you had no clue it was there. Look around for a good carry that goes on your chest - ideally it protects the lenses, but leaves the thing easy to use, because you should use one a lot!!!
 
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Potashminer said:
Do not think that binos are only needed for far distance - I use mine all the time in the bush - my eyes seem caught up with the branches and twigs that I see - with binos, I can see way in behind that stuff - I have seen many critters back there that were watching me, that I had no clue were there. It actually gives you a fright the first time you see a timber wolf that has you "dead to rights" and you had no clue it was there. Look around for a good carry that goes on your chest - ideally it protects the lenses, but leaves the thing easy to use, because you should use one a lot!!!
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surprising how few people use their optics to their full advantage, being fixated on seeing a deer/moose/bear instead of a leg/ear/back line
no need for hi power for in the tight stuff, 7x35 compacts are just so damned handy and light
10x are for mountains and open cut-blocks
 
Hello Leavenworth
My first pair of mid priced binos was a set of Alpine 10-42’s. I liked them so much that I sold them and moved to the 12x52 and as stated by others they are a bit shaky and didn’t like them nearly as much. I then bought some SIG rangefinding and sold them as well and went back to the Apline 10-42’s. Take my 2 cents with a grain of salt but whatever you buy can always be sold if you dont like them.
 
boxhitch said:
surprising how few people use their optics to their full advantage, being fixated on seeing a deer/moose/bear instead of a leg/ear/back line
no need for hi power for in the tight stuff, 7x35 compacts are just so damned handy and light
10x are for mountains and open cut-blocks
Click to expand...
Yep - my brother at Grande Cache, Alta calls it "taking the scene apart" - lay or sit on one mountain side and glass the opposite valley side - looking for an ear flick, a leg, etc. - almost never get to see a whole animal. In his case, some time, then, to get off the mountain that you are on, and then up onto the other one - it might be hours later that you get to shoot at what you first saw. Not at all how our Dad showed us to hunt whitetail deer - "push bush" and have the thing come barrelling out at full speed. Dad and I took several elk in the bush near Hudson Bay. Sask. - essentially flat land and swamp - not much for vantage points, like my brother has near Grande Cache - so we were "pussy footing" around in the bush - perhaps pretending we were Daniel Boone or something - seemed to be the trick to see elk in bush, before they saw you.
 
or if they have spotted you, they are still unsure what they are seeing, and will maybe pause long enough for a tine count and a shot
its a rush when it is a game measured in feet instead of 100's of yards
 
I have been playing with RC planes of late and one of the issues is seeing the airplane at a long distance (thermal gliders) so I was looking at solutions and found a 'magnifier' for distance. Goofy way it mounts to glasses so not a stable format but if you are willing to adapt to a 'helmet' of sorts or a more robust eye glass frame (safety glasses come to mind), they actually work... I think mine are 2X or 3X.

Flip down to view, flip up when not needed. Field of view is not bad if looking at something across the yard. Don't weigh much

Main market is spectators at sporting events that don't like or have issues using binos. The focus is set for 20/20 vision so anyone can use them

Jerry
 
Thunderhog said:
As a retired Leupold dealer I sold piles of Leupold scopes and binoculars, as well as spotting scopes.

The Leupold BX-2 Alpine Binoculars are a decent set of glass. Price point was right in those days, and I only had one pair that needed replacement under warranty in hundreds of them. I think I sold close to 300 sets in four years.

Burris Droptine binos were the second most popular models I sold. They too are very good for the money. The Leupolds were a little clearer and had nicer glass.

Vortex is junk from my experience, although not a pile of experience, but I know they are sold with a good warranty because you will use it. In addition, most Vortex entry to mid level anything is Chinese sh!t. Only once you get into Philippines' and Japanese glass they do get better. And then the price sky-rockets. So in my humble opinion, stay away from Vortex.

Nikon glass is very, very nice. I've had a few different models of Nikon binoculars and scopes. They are crystal clear, and back then they were Philippines glass as well.

For me, the rule of thumb is usually this:

Chinese glass is junk and should be avoided.
Philippines and Japanese glass always seem to be top quality.

I think you cannot go wrong with Leupold, Burris, or Nikon. They all make very nice and clear glass with lifetime warranties.

Good luck on your decision......:)
Click to expand...
I purchased a Nikon rimfire scope for my 10/22 stainless takedown. It is exceptional. The clarity is amazing. It was great deal at the time due to them announcing they were no longer going to make firearm related optics. When Bass Pro decides they are dumping a brand it's a fire sale. But still has a great warranty. Not that I will need it. Almost all my other glass is Leupold Cheers
 
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