280 Ross reloading journey.

flying pig

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Well, after years of looking, I finally landed a set of NOS RCBS 280 Ross dies last fall. Since then I’ve dove right off the deep end into reloading for the fabled old Ross cartridge.

Before I get into it, a quick disclaimer: loading for this old cartridge is basically wildcatting at this point in time. What I do likely will not work in your rifle, nor am I implying any of this is safe! Do your own homework and play extra safe!

Starting out in this, I had a set of dies, some leads on the internet for possible start loads and info on brass to use and 50 Woodleigh 175gr .287 bullets that were gifted by a friend. What I found out very quickly is do not believe what you read in rifle mags or on the internet. It could kill or maim you or your rifle.

I had read that 300 win mag or 7mm rem mag brass could be used. I had some of both on hand, once fired. I did some quick checks with calipers against case dimensions listed in The Ross Rifle Story, and 7mm cases will not work. The 300 cases are long enough, but are belted and the base of the case is slightly undersized. I had lots of it and decided to roll the dice.

Published loads in a handloader magazine from years ago listed 7mm rem mag start loads of H4831 as being a safe start point for 280 Ross. In proper purpose built 280 cases this may be the case, but in fire formed 300 win mag cases using a 7mm start load will result in dangerous overpressure signs. I had flat primers immediately. I shot three of these rounds just to make sure it was t just on the line and by the third round it was pretty obvious. That one not only flattened the primer but gas actually perforated the cup and escaped. That’s pretty close to a catastrophe. I pulled the pin at that point and went back to the drawing board.

What I found was using the 300 brass you wind up in a reduced case volume which puts you closer to 280 AI volumes. I decided to try a load closer to this, and gave 55gr of H4831 SC under a 154gr Hornady Interlock 284 a shot. This load did ok, no pressure signs and a 2.5” group in my M-10. Next I tried the 175 Woodleigh at 52gr H4831SC. This produced no pressure signs and a 1” group. I shot this load last fall for hunting in that rifle.

These cartridges were loaded at 3.575” OAL, which according to TRRS is .075” too long. The M-10 feeds them fine, but the SDS will not, which I did not find out until this summer.

Fast forward to this spring. I acquired a near new condition SDS (1907-E). I tried the .287 Woodleigh load in this rifle, and it did not impress. 3-4” group (this rifle is scoped). So I went back to the Hornady 154gr .284 bullets and it loved them. Nearly a 1moa group on a guess load of 55gr 4831. Next to try was the .284” Hornady Interlock 175gr over a 52gr load of 4831. This was less stellar at 2.5”, but the load even sounds ‘light’. These loads had to have a COAL of 3.5”, and resulted in a big jump of 0.080” to the lands. But, decent accuracy and no pressure signs.

The next range outing I tried some Hawk 160gr .287 bullets loaned to me by another member. This was over a 54.5gr 4831 load at 3.5” OAL. Not a winner at about a 6” group. I also tried a Speer 160gr .284 flat based bullet over the same load and length, but it was even worse at about 8”. I decided to abandon these and not chase any further in this rifle.

That catches us up to today. I have loaded ladder tests in both .284 Hornady bullets, and will go up in .5gr increments until I see pressure signs. Hopefully this will produce some favourable results!

Another caveat, this SDS seems to be sensitive and picky about primers. I tried Ginex LR primers in it but wound up at about a 60% FTF rate. Seems the cups are a bit hard or the main spring in that rifle is getting soft. Fiocchi primers cured it completely.

I have two other 280s in good shootable condition and plan on playing with them down the road. Seeing what I’ve learned so far, I expect each of them to settle on a vastly different load from the rest.

Pics in next post!
 
Hornady 375 Ruger "Basic" brass is an good basis for converting brass for the 280 Ross. It's available but not inexpensive...
 
Very cool, I knew a guy at the gun range that ended up with an M-10 in 280 Ross, was intriguing to me.

Forgive me though, what is the SDS? I do not know that model.
 
Hornady 375 Ruger "Basic" brass is a good basis for converting brass for the 280 Ross. It's available but not inexpensive...
I have heard this but haven’t tried it. The 300 win brass is working well and I have a few hundred on hand. Honestly, I’m not looking to get every fps out of these either. 280AI velocities are ok with me. I’ll have to put it across a chriny when things get closer.
 
Scotch Deer Stalker a 1905 based precursor to the M-10 280 Ross built in 1907 onwards in VERY limited #s.
Just google “Scotch Deer Stalker” or “1907 Ross:.
Bolt head is per the 1910 (not interchangeable) and receiver is likewise altered.
FINE shooter (I have 4) in .280 and much like the 1905 “E” (in .35 Winchester) in handling characteristics
TTFN
OGC
 
I had 5 of the Ross 280's at one time and of the talk was .287 to .288 bullet diameter, When I slugged the barrels on the guns I had .285 to .286 was what I found, so I am not sure if .287 bullets are needed plus at that time I had some old ammo by Ross and so I removed a bullet out of a case that was cracked and it was .284 That was my experence, be good to hear if anybody slugs there bore and see what diameter they have. I will need to check the one I have now to see what it is. I am working on building a Ruger #1 up in 280 ross at the moment and it has .284 barrel.
 
I had 5 of the Ross 280's at one time and of the talk was .287 to .288 bullet diameter, When I slugged the barrels on the guns I had .285 to .286 was what I found, so I am not sure if .287 bullets are needed plus at that time I had some old ammo by Ross and so I removed a bullet out of a case that was cracked and it was .284 That was my experence, be good to hear if anybody slugs there bore and see what diameter they have. I will need to check the one I have now to see what it is. I am working on building a Ruger #1 up in 280 ross at the moment and it has .284 barrel.
Are you having a reamer built? I’d about give my eye teeth to get my paws on one.

I remember Smellie saying all his 280 Ross projectiles were .284 as well. I need to get after slugging my rifles to see. I have 3 M-10s with good bores and one SDS with a good bore. So it would be nice to gather some answers that way.
 
Flying Pig:

Thanks for posting your experiences so far with the 280 loads. As a new owner of a 280 M10, this will be very helpful indeed!

Finding dies is certainly a challenge, but CH4 has put my name on a list for their next production run of 280 Ross dies. It may take a few months but is worth the wait. Anybody wishing to join the list can reach them at: https://chtoolanddie.com/company/contact-us


Cheers!

mbatten
Vancouver Island
 
I have a reamer, bought it from a gunshop that was closing had done one chamber as he had made a 280 on a Martini for someone,
We can talk after I get my job done about the reamer
 
Flying Pig:

Thanks for posting your experiences so far with the 280 loads. As a new owner of a 280 M10, this will be very helpful indeed!

Finding dies is certainly a challenge, but CH4 has put my name on a list for their next production run of 280 Ross dies. It may take a few months but is worth the wait. Anybody wishing to join the list can reach them at: https://chtoolanddie.com/company/contact-us


Cheers!

mbatten
Vancouver Island
Hopefully it won’t take long for them to get them done for you. It’s going to be awesome to see how that rifle of yours shoots, it’s a very nice piece.
 
I might have misspoke. I bought mine more than 10 years ago and it might not be available in Canada anymore. Perhaps 375 Ruger brass would work just fine, it would just have to be worked more.
 
Well, today was a range day, working up a ladder test and further narrowing bullet choice in a bit of a hurry.

Last time out my testing showed that this rifle likes the 154gr Hornady Interlocks and 175gr Hornady interlocks. Today’s plan was to ladder test these bullets up from the start loads I’d used last time out.

For the 154s I worked up from 54gr of h4831 all the way up to 59 gr in .5 gr increments. At 58gr it seemed to find an accuracy node, and then again at 59.

The 175s seemed to hold about a 2.5” group with every load I tried. The POI between the two bullet types was almost 6” apart at 120m, and accuracy was much better with the 154s so for now I’ve decided that’s what I’ll be hinting with this year. They should hit lots hard for Elk. I don’t currently have a chrony so I’m not sure of velocity, but they hold a decent group and there are no pressure signs.

Something I did run into however is that the dies hammer the shoulder back about a country mile when set up normally. In order to neck size and just bump the shoulder with either RCBS die or Pacific die they had to be turned out nearly 3 turns! No wonder case volume was down so much. Now the cartridges seem to be getting more consistent and accuracy is much better.

IMG_2279.jpeg
 
I purchased a case of .300 PRC brass and the necessary forming dies, but have yet to try it. Shouldn't be too much forming needed for the PRC brass, and it's as close as can be for modern brass, and very readily available.
I may have to try some as well. The 300 win mag stuff does work though, and it’s everywhere.
 
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