Oil Blackening

sportee

sportee

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Im thinking of trying some oil blackening on an old junker i'm rebuilding. Anybody done this? Experiences? Photos?

How durable/rust resistant is an oil quenched black finish?
 
you really should be using a good quenching oil such as brownells tough quench, since it has a much higher flash point than regular oils, i.e. motor oil. there is also less chance of the work piece warping after dipping it into tough quench.the reciever should be completely disassembled. the reciever should have a light coat of oil on it and then heat applied, with the flame in continous motion until the steel starts to colour. it should then be dipped in the quenching oil or have oil wiped on with a shop swab. allow to sit for about 24 hours, then carefully degrease and apply a good gun oil.this is how i've done it a fair few times and the finnish is very nice. i don't know that it's as good as hot blue or colour case hardening,but it's btter than cold blue. if you mess up , just remove the gun oil and buff off the finnish with a felt buffing wheel or a fine grit oxide paper and start again. good luck
 
Ive hear of other folks that have had to do three applications to get a deep blue/black. Your method is the first that i have heard that involved letting the pice sit for 24 hours. The other folks that i had spoken with said to heat the part, quench in oil for a few minutes, wash with dishsoap and water and do it all again.

My biggest concern is the temperature...I have to silver solder a front sight that has been removed.

Also...do you have any pictures of the results. I am looking for a certain finish and hot dip bluing just isnt the colour im going for. Ive only seen one picture of an oil blackened job and it looks like what im after
 
Quenching in 2 stroke oil seems to work well for this.
I have a bracket on one of my bikes that i heat treated and quenched in 2 stroke oil,came out really nice
 
the 24 hours is to let it cool and set before degreasing. the finnish is "soft" at first and too much vigorous rubbing will cause it to come off. if you can get the heat and oil just right, you can get the multi colour affect similar to colour case hardening
 
12magnum said:
the 24 hours is to let it cool and set before degreasing. the finnish is "soft" at first and too much vigorous rubbing will cause it to come off. if you can get the heat and oil just right, you can get the multi colour affect similar to colour case hardening
Click to expand...

So you attack the 2nd and 3rd applications after that period...in effect making a 3 day project?

Makes sense to me...But i still would like to see somebody's pics.

Thanks for the info.
 
sportee said:
So you attack the 2nd and 3rd applications after that period...in effect making a 3 day project?

Makes sense to me...But i still would like to see somebody's pics.

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

yes you can do it that way or just keep adding as you go. the point is, that the finnish needs time to set before you give it any solid rubbing . it should be degreased very gently. A good final step is to cover it with a laquer or acrylic spray. One other point as well. When your heating the metal, don't allow the flame too much time in one place or you'll get a dark brown spot.But as i saiid earlier any screw ups can be buffed out and you can start over. Another idea ,is to clean a random piece of steel, polish to a 400 grit finnish and practise.I'll post some pics when i figure out my new digi cam and the software. LOL
 
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