The best possible way to mount a scope
- Thread starter redneck09
- Start date
first no loctite no rosin
lapping is a possibility degrease everything screws and screw holes use quality rings and bases many out on the market today
started my first job in a gun shop 1977 and still spend a few days a week at it
likely mounted 10,000 scopes in 40 years
just saying
lapping is a possibility degrease everything screws and screw holes use quality rings and bases many out on the market today
started my first job in a gun shop 1977 and still spend a few days a week at it
likely mounted 10,000 scopes in 40 years
just saying
KotKotofeich
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Ottawa Valley
Agree with the above. Lap. Use only the proper torque. That's it.
Make sure your rings are spaced properly. Surprising how many scopes out there with crooked rings...
Make sure your rings are spaced properly. Surprising how many scopes out there with crooked rings...
- Location
- Nova Scotia
It can act as a lubricant and you can over torque it.
It's not Franks red hot sauce. Dont put that sh!t on everything.
no just on things that call for it. Manufacturer spec and whatnot. I believe I have seen scope mount screws come with the dry thread locker on them but I could be mixed up with other screws. My memory is pretty screwy sometimes.
You make a good point. Wet loctite would increase clamping pressure if you didn’t correct for it.
Not everyone runs a rail... and area 419 rings require a rail if you want to reply on them being lapped.
For a hunting rfile I preferred Leupold Dual Dovetail mounts for a simple trouble free mount once correctly installed.
You have to make sure the bases center the rings so the scope has equal windage adjustment left and right.
I used a 24 inch piece of 1 inch aluminum tubing to help with alignment a lot of the time.
I often used a drop of Blue Loctite on clean base screws but I always used a torque wrench.
I would mount the bases and then using alignment bars install the bottom rings halves.
Then I would start the lapping, just a couple of strokes and inspect the rings halves for alignment and adjust as needed.
Then I would finish lapping, clean the rings really well. Place every so little powdered rosin in the rings and mount the scope, torqueing the screws.
When one removes the scope in the future, the powdered rosin appears like rust but removes and cleans up with lacquer thinner like it was never there.
For a hunting rfile I preferred Leupold Dual Dovetail mounts for a simple trouble free mount once correctly installed.
You have to make sure the bases center the rings so the scope has equal windage adjustment left and right.
I used a 24 inch piece of 1 inch aluminum tubing to help with alignment a lot of the time.
I often used a drop of Blue Loctite on clean base screws but I always used a torque wrench.
I would mount the bases and then using alignment bars install the bottom rings halves.
Then I would start the lapping, just a couple of strokes and inspect the rings halves for alignment and adjust as needed.
Then I would finish lapping, clean the rings really well. Place every so little powdered rosin in the rings and mount the scope, torqueing the screws.
When one removes the scope in the future, the powdered rosin appears like rust but removes and cleans up with lacquer thinner like it was never there.
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Jonnyofalltrades
Regular
- Location
- North-central Saskatchewan
Leupold states that their torque spec is for lubricated screws.
FWIW.
Badger rings are cut, numbered and paired from a single drilled steel billet.
Right so the expensive rings are lapped and pinned with dowels on I’m assuming a very precise piece of steel in a factory. but what about the threaded holes on your action. Can’t you still get those lapped rings onto the action improperly aligned. Your action would have variances from whatever they use in the factory. Then you have to try and screw them down straight.
Wouldn’t it be better to lap and align the rings on your rifle? If you would spend that amount of money on rings wouldn’t you check the alignment anyway? Or am I missing something?
Wouldn’t it be better to lap and align the rings on your rifle? If you would spend that amount of money on rings wouldn’t you check the alignment anyway? Or am I missing something?
Hand Skills
CGN Regular
- Location
- In the 'heartland', southern SK
Talley also recommends AGAINST lapping.
Talley makes a good product, but you're really at the mercy of your receiver when it comes to alignment.
A set of alignment bars will remove all doubt
Even on a flat top receiver like a Tikka, it can be tricky to get the two rings perfectly concentric. A straight edge to align the 2 bases can be handy. On an open receiver like a Rem700 or Win Model 70, it only gets worse.
This is why a lot of guys lap Talley's - (even though Talley recommends against lapping!) cause their bases are not perfectly aligned
A one piece direct mount like the DNZ Game Reaper is a better option in my opinion. To test the fit I tighten down the front of the mount to the receiver and leave out the rear screws. Then I put the scope in the rings and tighten the rings.
Sometimes a gap will present between the receiver and the rear of the base. When this occurs I address by disassembly and epoxy bedding the rear of the mount. A similar approach can be taken with Talley's - getting everything located is trickier though.
The result?
No lapping, guaranteed alignment.
A premium direct mount like a Near Alpha hunter with integral recoil lugs is one of the best IMO. Bolton and go.
Picatinny Rails can solve alignment issues as well, epoxy bedding (and maybe even pinning) to the receiver guarantees flat and true foundation for the rings. As an added bonus, this route offers a lot more adjustment fore and aft when it comes to mounting different scopes.
Degrease fasteners
Use a torque driver
Edited to add:
Burris Signature Zee rings are an elegant and cost effective solution when it comes to solving alignment issues
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