Newbie/virgin reloader equipment checklist

skylerjames13

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Hi there, I know there has been dozens of these threads. I’ve been trying to make a proper list for weeks now, and there is just SO MUCH information out there, and different brands, names, types etc etc.

What I have in my Cabelas shopping cart
- RCBS case lube kit.
- RCBS powder funnel
- RCBS rock chucker supreme press
- Frankford Arsenal electronic caliper
- Lyman Universal Case Trimmer
- RCBS charger master link elec powder dispenser
- Lyman case prep multi tool (for deburr/chamfer)
- MTM universal loading tray

What I own
I have a RCBS .303 British Lee die set,
RCBS 8mm Mauser die set,
6.5 Carcano Lee Pagesetter die set. All full length sizing dies.


I know I’m missing these things
- reloading book
- powder
- primer
- bullets


What am I missing?
Is my shopping list decent? Anything I can get rid of, or change? Currently looking at 1100~ bucks, plus tax lol so if I can cut that down, that would be great.

I have problems being organized and precise, so I know the electronic powder machine is oodles more expensive than a manual, but it’ll be easier for me and actually make me do it properly.

I don’t have any brand loyalty, I just want the basics.

What I am reloading is going to be 8mm Mauser, .303 British, 6.5 Carcano,
and once I get the dies, I’d like to do
7.62x54R,
7.5 Swede,
7.62 nato/.308

Just the ammo that is harder to get/more expensive. I live in northern Manitoba where UPS or purolator doesn’t deliver, so I cannot get any “dangerous goods” shipped to me. So getting ammo for my old milsurp rifles is always tricky.

Any information is greatly appreciated!
 
Just a note about .303 and full length resizing. The average .303 cartridge case can be full length resized approx 4-5 times as the case wall where the body meets the rim stretches eventually causing an incipient separation. The best piece of kit you can buy if you reload .303 is a broken case extractor.
 
Just a note about .303 and full length resizing. The average .303 cartridge case can be full length resized approx 4-5 times as the case wall where the body meets the rim stretches eventually causing an incipient separation. The best piece of kit you can buy if you reload .303 is a broken case extractor.
I know very little so far, but would getting a different .303 die that isn’t full length be better for the longevity of the brass?
 
What is your reloading volume going to look like? 100 at a time, or smaller batches for accuracy testing? If you’re reloading lower volumes, skip the charge master and get a good beam scale. Also - get a dial caliper instead of a digital.
 
A "quick and cheap" way to tell if your 303 rifle chamber has issues is to visually compare a new round to one that has been fired in that rifle - it is not unusual, at all, for the fired case to have a different length neck; a different shoulder appearance, etc. The .303 British case headspaces on its rim - like a 30/30 or any belted magnum - "rimless" rounds will headspace on their shoulder at front of the case. So, a headspace gauge for a .303 British / 30/30 or other rimmed round is only checking for that rim thickness - a belted "magnum" gauge is only checking for the recess in the chamber for the belt - whereas a headspace gauge for 30-06, 308 Win, 6.5x55, etc. will also confirm the case body length.

No headspace gauge that I am aware of will confirm body or shoulder diameter - unless the user makes one for that.
 
I know very little so far, but would getting a different .303 die that isn’t full length be better for the longevity of the brass?
303 is an excellent candidate for neck sizing. Lee makes a collet die for 303, well worth it. Brass will last considerably longer.
 
303 is an excellent candidate for neck sizing. Lee makes a collet die for 303, well worth it. Brass will last considerably longer.
Thanks for the info. I’ll need to look further into dies because I definitely don’t know all the differences lol. I got the .303, 8mm, 6.5 carcano dies and 100 .303 bullets and approx 80ish 8mm bullets for 175 bucks shipped so I’m not too torn if I have to buy a different .303 Brit die.
 
next on the list is 100 lbs of lead ,cast iron pot, bullet molds, lubesizer and some tin ...with the calibers you have they would be great cast bullet shooters.
Perhaps that will be something I’ll have to look into.. unfortunately I am a very newbie reloader and don’t even know where to start lol.
 
What is your reloading volume going to look like? 100 at a time, or smaller batches for accuracy testing? If you’re reloading lower volumes, skip the charge master and get a good beam scale. Also - get a dial caliper instead of a digital.
I suppose smaller batches for accuracy testing, though I am by no means a great shooter. I like to shoot and am trying to practice. Mostly reloading because it is very difficult to acquire more ammo where I am.
 
A nylon bore brush in the caliber or bigger. "Verry" lightly lubed to clean the inside neck. You can do with out it but it's so much smoother with it.
 
Hi there, I know there has been dozens of these threads. I’ve been trying to make a proper list for weeks now, and there is just SO MUCH information out there, and different brands, names, types etc etc.

What I have in my Cabelas shopping cart
- RCBS case lube kit.
- RCBS powder funnel
- RCBS rock chucker supreme press
- Frankford Arsenal electronic caliper
- Lyman Universal Case Trimmer
- RCBS charger master link elec powder dispenser
- Lyman case prep multi tool (for deburr/chamfer)
- MTM universal loading tray

What I own
I have a RCBS .303 British Lee die set,
RCBS 8mm Mauser die set,
6.5 Carcano Lee Pagesetter die set. All full length sizing dies.


I know I’m missing these things
- reloading book
- powder
- primer
- bullets


What am I missing?
Is my shopping list decent? Anything I can get rid of, or change? Currently looking at 1100~ bucks, plus tax lol so if I can cut that down, that would be great.

I have problems being organized and precise, so I know the electronic powder machine is oodles more expensive than a manual, but it’ll be easier for me and actually make me do it properly.

I don’t have any brand loyalty, I just want the basics.

What I am reloading is going to be 8mm Mauser, .303 British, 6.5 Carcano,
and once I get the dies, I’d like to do
7.62x54R,
7.5 Swede,
7.62 nato/.308

Just the ammo that is harder to get/more expensive. I live in northern Manitoba where UPS or purolator doesn’t deliver, so I cannot get any “dangerous goods” shipped to me. So getting ammo for my old milsurp rifles is always tricky.

Any information is greatly appreciated!
Check that the trimmer comes with the pilot sizes you need. You will probably need to get the 6.5mm, 8mm, and .311 sizes individually.
Also I think you would do well to add a vibratory cleaner/polisher to the list.
Also also I would have thought it more cost effective to purchase a reloading kit with all the things rather than each individually.
My 2cents
 
Check that the trimmer comes with the pilot sizes you need. You will probably need to get the 6.5mm, 8mm, and .311 sizes individually.
Also I think you would do well to add a vibratory cleaner/polisher to the list.
Also also I would have thought it more cost effective to purchase a reloading kit with all the things rather than each individually.
My 2cents
Thanks for pointing that out. The Lyman comes with a “universal chuckhead that handles any case from .17 to .458 Caliber. No need for expensive Collets or Shellholders.” (quote from the Cabelas product info page) so I wasn’t sure what that meant.

The RCBS rock chuck supreme master reloading kit is on sale for 799 but sold out. It also doesn’t include a trimmer, and it has the M500 Mechanical Scale and Uniflow-III Powder Measure which I was trying to avoid by getting the Chargermaster.

I think I’m still in over my head and don’t fully understand what is all needed, and why.

Essentially I just want to reload for my milsurp rifles because it’s literally impossible to get ammo where I live, closest city with dealers/GP users is 800km away. I’m not doing it to save money, or achieve pinpoint accurate hand loads.. it’s just for recreational shooting without having drive 800km to restock.

I’ll have to do some more research I think. I’ll buy the RCBS rock chucker because I can tell that it’ll be worth it. But I’ll hold off for now on others.
 
Thanks for the info. I’ll need to look further into dies because I definitely don’t know all the differences lol. I got the .303, 8mm, 6.5 carcano dies and 100 .303 bullets and approx 80ish 8mm bullets for 175 bucks shipped so I’m not too torn if I have to buy a different .303 Brit die.
I have been loading for the .303 Brit ( among other cartridges) for a great many years, both for competition and hunting , and in both surplus rifles, as well as rifles with custom chambers.
The Lee deluxe kit with the collet die is a fantastic piece of gear , especially for the .303!
 
Thanks for pointing that out. The Lyman comes with a “universal chuckhead that handles any case from .17 to .458 Caliber. No need for expensive Collets or Shellholders.” (quote from the Cabelas product info page) so I wasn’t sure what that meant.

The RCBS rock chuck supreme master reloading kit is on sale for 799 but sold out. It also doesn’t include a trimmer, and it has the M500 Mechanical Scale and Uniflow-III Powder Measure which I was trying to avoid by getting the Chargermaster.

I think I’m still in over my head and don’t fully understand what is all needed, and why.

Essentially I just want to reload for my milsurp rifles because it’s literally impossible to get ammo where I live, closest city with dealers/GP users is 800km away. I’m not doing it to save money, or achieve pinpoint accurate hand loads.. it’s just for recreational shooting without having drive 800km to restock.

I’ll have to do some more research I think. I’ll buy the RCBS rock chucker because I can tell that it’ll be worth it. But I’ll hold off for now on others.
The PILOT of the trimmer is the interchangeable bit that is attached to the blade and enters the casemouth. They are specific to each bullet diameter. You are thinking about the Chuck head which holds the base of the cartridge. You will need the pilots for the calibers you are trimming. I know for my Lyman universal I had to obtain the 6.5 pilot separately. I suspect same for the .311 and 8mm.
 
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