Build Your Safe-Queen into a Straight-Pull King

VictoryRidgeCS said:
Absolutely!

For the A2 style front-sight/gas block you simply unpin the gas-tube flip it 180 and re-insert it so that the holes no longer align. It can then be pinned in place and cut flush with the face of the front sight post.

Alternately a custom pin of the appropriate diameter can be inserted into the gas tube hole and pinned in place.

Both are very simple jobs.
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Any reports of gas coming back at the shooter? The tube isn't an interference type fit, so rotating it will still leave a gap beneath the tube and when the gas has nowhere to go...out under the blocked tube?
 
Set screw style gas blocks force the block down on the journal well enough that isn't a problem. I use the plug ring included with the maverick kit and it works a treat, gas has never been a problem.
 
Painkillers said:
Any reports of gas coming back at the shooter? The tube isn't an interference type fit, so rotating it will still leave a gap beneath the tube and when the gas has nowhere to go...out under the blocked tube?
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It's not perfect, but the amount of gas coming out isn't enough to cause problems. A tapered pin can work to seal the hole if there is concern about leakage.
 
VictoryRidgeCS said:
It's not perfect, but the amount of gas coming out isn't enough to cause problems. A tapered pin can work to seal the hole if there is concern about leakage.
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Could a thread be cut into the A2 gas tube and plugged with a tap screw, or am I making a little projectile pointed at my face?
 
Painkillers said:
Could a thread be cut into the A2 gas tube and plugged with a tap screw, or am I making a little projectile pointed at my face?
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A piece of metal dowel or round stock, as long as its true to size, all you really need to do get it past the gas port so you don't create a pressure chamber, though it would probably vent out of the roll pin hole first. IIRC the OD of the tube is like +/- .180", so you are close to size on a couple different size taps, you could probably get away with running the tap straight in if you have the block off.
 
The_Shmoo said:
A piece of metal dowel or round stock, as long as its true to size, all you really need to do get it past the gas port so you don't create a pressure chamber, though it would probably vent out of the roll pin hole first. IIRC the OD of the tube is like +/- .180", so you are close to size on a couple different size taps, you could probably get away with running the tap straight in if you have the block off.
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Take the sight post off, and tap and plug the gas port from the underside, where it meets the barrel? Thereby preventing any gas from venting out of the barrel port once the sight is reinstalled? I like it. The likelihood of it spitting a plug or gas/debris into my face on discharge would be nil I would think.
Has anyone got a quick video clip of what volume of gas comes past if the tube is just rotated 180 degrees and cut? Am I making more out of this than needs to be?
 
Painkillers said:
Take the sight post off, and tap and plug the gas port from the underside, where it meets the barrel? Thereby preventing any gas from venting out of the barrel port once the sight is reinstalled? I like it. The likelihood of it spitting a plug or gas/debris into my face on discharge would be nil I would think.
Has anyone got a quick video clip of what volume of gas comes past if the tube is just rotated 180 degrees and cut? Am I making more out of this than needs to be?
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You might be over thinking it. Get a pin that fits where the gas tube goes in the sight. Drill a hole in the pin and use gas tube pin to lock it in place.
Use some sealant if you really feel it necessary.
 
Painkillers said:
Take the sight post off, and tap and plug the gas port from the underside, where it meets the barrel? Thereby preventing any gas from venting out of the barrel port once the sight is reinstalled? I like it. The likelihood of it spitting a plug or gas/debris into my face on discharge would be nil I would think.
Has anyone got a quick video clip of what volume of gas comes past if the tube is just rotated 180 degrees and cut? Am I making more out of this than needs to be?
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You are indeed overthinking. I only mentioned taking the block off cause you won't be able to drive a tap or a pin in while it's on. All you need to do is get whatever method you are using past the gas port and cover it completely, the pressure should not be nearly enough to split even a cast gas block. A piece of mild steel round stock, or even drill rod or fixture dowel if you have machinist pals. You can also run a tap in, you are near right on size for a #12 machine screw, or you could drill it out a bit for an easy 1/4-20 or M6 set screw, Either way a bit of loctite to seal it couldn't hurt. Keep in mind this is a one way trip for that gas block.
 

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I am a Lee Enfield guy and I don't know much about ARs. I do (unfortunately?) happen to have an old Colt AR15 Delta H-Bar rifle sitting in my basement waiting for its final invitation to get chopped up. This is the one that has the carry handle integrated into the receiver, the cheek piece added to the but stock to get you head up high enough to see the scope, etc.. Are the parts on this old thing compatible with the new straight pull receiver? Other than the original donor rifle, what other parts/tools/bits/pieces would I need to turn it back into something I can legally take to the range and go "bang" with?
 
myenfield said:
I am a Lee Enfield guy and I don't know much about ARs. I do (unfortunately?) happen to have an old Colt AR15 Delta H-Bar rifle sitting in my basement waiting for its final invitation to get chopped up. This is the one that has the carry handle integrated into the receiver, the cheek piece added to the but stock to get you head up high enough to see the scope, etc.. Are the parts on this old thing compatible with the new straight pull receiver? Other than the original donor rifle, what other parts/tools/bits/pieces would I need to turn it back into something I can legally take to the range and go "bang" with?
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Your barrel, stripped bolt (everything but the carrier and the gas rings), trigger, safety, bolt catch, buttstock, recoil assembly, and magazine. I cannot remember if the takedown pins get re-used, its been a while. The barrel can be used without the gas system, but as addressed above, you may need to modify the A2 gas block or use a modified gas tube to stem the gas, but this will allow you to re-use your furniture.

You need a barrel/receiver vise and accompanying armorers tools to strip the donor, and to install the barrel on the renegade receiver.

There is probably stuff I am missing, this is by no means a comprehensive guide.
 
Most of your parts should work. Your trigger and hammer pivot holes and their pins may be a different size. Colt did this to keep M-16 parts from being installed.
You will need the tools to remove your barrel.
 
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