Rust resisting a hunting rifle - CZ 557

[cam1936]

For cleaning and rust prevention I use good old fashioned ATF.
If I purchase an old gun that has gotten rusty from neglect and needs a serious cleaning, I use (again) ATF and acetone mixed 50/50. Has always worked good for me.

Acetone is an amazing solvent in certain situations. Acetone will eat many different wood finishes. I don't know how it acts when mixed with ATF, but on its own I wouldn't let it close to a stocked rifle. I actually use it to strip finishes, so just be careful.

 

[Royzo]

I should have been clearer with that write up. The ATF/ acetone mix is used for a serious cleaning with the stock removed.
That 50/50 mix is also what I use in the shop as a penetrating fluid.

Acetone is an amazing solvent in certain situations. Acetone will eat many different wood finishes. I don't know how it acts when mixed with ATF, but on its own I wouldn't let it close to a stocked rifle. I actually use it to strip finishes, so just be careful.

 

[bearhunter]

True so maybe it wasn’t pointed at you. Oh and never had an issue with Balistol, none of my firearms are SS and I hunt in all kind of weather with them, no rust problems. If you take care of your stuff you can use what ever oil you want really. The main problem is people put too much on, less is better in this situation!!

I don't disbelieve you at all. But I surmise you're the guy who wipes his firearms down regularly after use?

I've seen too many milsurps with a coat of "sticky" Ballistol applied by the owner, tucked into the back of a safe, and stay there for a year or longer.

Not all firearms owners are as fussy as you, many others and myself.

They use Ballistol as a "long term storage" coating, which it was never intended to be.

 

[New Camper]

CZ made nice rifles in the 550 and 527: I've never owned or handled a 557. It always seemed the bluing was not very thick, and I was always diligent about the end of a damp day in the field to wipe down, and smear a film of hydraulic oil over the metal. The wood finish was always pretty good, so I would just wipe it down of moisture and sweat. But I was always this diligent with any rifle...

If you want, you can purchase bluing kits and thicken the blue... this is my second choice after just keeping it clean, and putting away properly. But coating over a blued surface won't work well, given that blue is literally a controlled oxidized surface and won't receive many surface coatings... it would have to be stripped... eww. Anyway, Birchwood Casey makes a nice cold blue kit: I've reblued some old, beat guns and several layers in, the bluing is beautiful and deep.