Getting setup for loading 12g. Going to load #4 shot, 00 buckshot and slugs. I bought some Winchester WAA12 wads a couple years ago thinking thats what I'll need. From reading I can load slugs and #4 shot with those wads but maybe not 00 buck? Is that right and what wad should I get for the buck shot? Or am I way off
Wad question
- Thread starter Shovel
- Start date
You should be able to load 00 buck in those
I load 000 buck in the same wad stacked in 2s
If the 00 buck is small enough you might be able to stack it in 3s
I don’t have any 00 buck but have read that it can come in a couple different sizes
I load 000 buck in the same wad stacked in 2s
If the 00 buck is small enough you might be able to stack it in 3s
I don’t have any 00 buck but have read that it can come in a couple different sizes
Personally I liked loading 0-buck because it stacks in nice 3's.
00-buck being just slightly bigger doesn't stack in flat threes. The threes end up cocked at an angle.
I'd need to look at my notes to find out how many of each but IIRC it is in the 9-11 pellet range.
One thing I'd found really helps with buckshot is to fill up the shell with granulated wheat germ or corn meal. Something granular but fairly fine so it filters down and fills all the space between the pellets. I use a set of Lee powder scoops to keep the amount of filler consistent.
00-buck being just slightly bigger doesn't stack in flat threes. The threes end up cocked at an angle.
I'd need to look at my notes to find out how many of each but IIRC it is in the 9-11 pellet range.
One thing I'd found really helps with buckshot is to fill up the shell with granulated wheat germ or corn meal. Something granular but fairly fine so it filters down and fills all the space between the pellets. I use a set of Lee powder scoops to keep the amount of filler consistent.
omg please do not listen to this loading data unless of coarse you want pressures to go thru the roof
lyman has 6 shot shell manuals out staring from the 60's just buy one and read it
first off adding corneal or flour or any other food type product will become a solid mass making a slug type project tile
if you want to add a buffer you could buy the correct material and it has to be added one correct amounts
Solid advise adding buffers is dangerous without the proper buffer and data. A lot of people should not be handloading it is not a game to go at willy nilly.
Have a manual just seeing if I should be sourcing a different wad for 00 buckshot. I can see the filler caking up if it gets damp and sits for a longer time. But would that be bad? Might be good at holding the pattern tighter. I'll read up on pressure. Can't be more than with slugs. Thanks for the heads up
I have two reloading manuals one specific to Cheditte hulls and I only use what they used when loading 12g mind you I have only been loading #5 and #6 shot. I am not going to take any chances with high presures especially when the shell is less than 6 inches from my face when I pull the trigger. Please buy some shotgun reloading manuals and DON'T re-invent the wheel.
Shovel: Good advice from ivobb, and others. Don't try to re-invent the wheel! Be sure to follow the good advice already given and stick to published shotshell load data...only.
You can have some success with gas seals. Ballistics Products are well known for this product. But, if you want readily available wads for both buckshot and slugs, go no further than Federal. Or, their Claybuster equivalent. Then, load them in combination with straight-walled hulls, ie: Federal, Cheddite, etc. This combination works very well, for both buckshot and slugs..
You can use tapered wads/hulls too, if that's what you have available, ie: WW, Remington, etc. But, these are better suited to smaller shot sizes and may present some challenges when loading buckshot, or slugs.
As far as buffer is concerned, stay away from cornmeal, flour, or any other organic filler. Use only inert(plastic) filler. Be sure to include the weight of the filler as part of your load.
Here's a tip: Add a thin card wad to the top of the buckshot load column as the final step, before crimping the hull. This helps keep buffer from leaking out of the loaded shell. You can add this step when loading bird shot too. Helps in keeping the crimp tight and firm.
Also, if you don't have one already, pick up a copy of the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual. This will have any number of good load recipes for both buckshot and slugs. It won't matter whether this is a new, or or one of the older copies. The data should still be present.
Another good, online resource: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center. Plenty of data available, there.
Finally....don't overthink this! Buckshot and slug loading isn't that difficult. A lot of the data, components and technique used in loading regular birdshot, etc., readily transfer over.
Hope this helps:
Al
You can have some success with gas seals. Ballistics Products are well known for this product. But, if you want readily available wads for both buckshot and slugs, go no further than Federal. Or, their Claybuster equivalent. Then, load them in combination with straight-walled hulls, ie: Federal, Cheddite, etc. This combination works very well, for both buckshot and slugs..
You can use tapered wads/hulls too, if that's what you have available, ie: WW, Remington, etc. But, these are better suited to smaller shot sizes and may present some challenges when loading buckshot, or slugs.
As far as buffer is concerned, stay away from cornmeal, flour, or any other organic filler. Use only inert(plastic) filler. Be sure to include the weight of the filler as part of your load.
Here's a tip: Add a thin card wad to the top of the buckshot load column as the final step, before crimping the hull. This helps keep buffer from leaking out of the loaded shell. You can add this step when loading bird shot too. Helps in keeping the crimp tight and firm.
Also, if you don't have one already, pick up a copy of the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual. This will have any number of good load recipes for both buckshot and slugs. It won't matter whether this is a new, or or one of the older copies. The data should still be present.
Another good, online resource: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center. Plenty of data available, there.
Finally....don't overthink this! Buckshot and slug loading isn't that difficult. A lot of the data, components and technique used in loading regular birdshot, etc., readily transfer over.
Hope this helps:
Al
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Ah that's what the jars of buffer are. Makes sense now. I'll be roll crimping so have to use a card regardless. Bought a punch and some plastic sheathing. I have a Lyman manual. Still unpacking things from a move. I don't know where the re inventing the wheel comments are coming from 
You don't think there's any benefit from gas seals for patterning and consistency over regular wads?
You don't think there's any benefit from gas seals for patterning and consistency over regular wads?
These are the wads I bought. Not committed to using them if there is something better. Using lead for now so don't need wads for steel. The hulls are straight wall like challenger hulls.
Read that 00 buck might not stack nicely in a wad. So looking at gas seals. Looks like a wad without the pedals and cushion. Looks like you need spacers or cushions with gas seals? And that they seal better than wads that might let some powder migrate along the inside between the wad and the hull.
digitalblue
CGN Regular
- Location
- GTA unfortunately
The traditional 3x3 stackup of 00 buck was intended fit properly inside the hull using fiber wads (no wad petals). If you attempt to load 00 Buck (stacked 3x3) in a modern wad with petals, it will not fit without bulging the hull.
You have a few options:
- You can cut the petals off the wad which would allow the pellets to stack nicely inside the hull walls. This won't change pressures much since you are not modifying the suspension portion of the wad.
- You can drop down to a smaller buckshot size #0 or #1 buckshot which would fit perfectly inside the wad petals. No risk of over pressure since the smaller pellets are lighter.
- You can load 1 pellet less which would provide a 2x4 stackup, which fits inside wad petals. No risk of over pressure since you are reducing payload, but you may run into issue with incomplete powder burn if you're using slower powders.
You have a few options:
- You can cut the petals off the wad which would allow the pellets to stack nicely inside the hull walls. This won't change pressures much since you are not modifying the suspension portion of the wad.
- You can drop down to a smaller buckshot size #0 or #1 buckshot which would fit perfectly inside the wad petals. No risk of over pressure since the smaller pellets are lighter.
- You can load 1 pellet less which would provide a 2x4 stackup, which fits inside wad petals. No risk of over pressure since you are reducing payload, but you may run into issue with incomplete powder burn if you're using slower powders.
OMG, please don't talk about that which you are ignorant
I've been making buckshot loads with cornmeal filler for ca. 25 years and never had any problems. Made them by the hundreds and they work great. The filler helps to prevent damage to the balls, which improves the pattern.
Yea, my FORTY YEARS of reloading experience is "willy nilly"Solid advise adding buffers is dangerous without the proper buffer and data. A lot of people should not be handloading it is not a game to go at willy nilly.
Bought the 00 mold so I'll try to make 00 work. Maybe gas seals and mylar sleeves. I can use the wads I have for #4 shot which I'll buy. I think slugs will be ok with the wads. Still have to buy a slug mold. Bought some Tite groups a while back. Plan on using it for the shotshells and for 357/38
