Fail to fire with .40 cal reloads

nearnorthguy

nearnorthguy

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FTF...with .40 cal and .22 pistols

OK...first time out at the range today with the new toys...First off , all my .40 cal M&P with my reloads fired no prob...but the reloads i bought from the shop had some F T Fire issues...I measured the COL of the ones i purchased and they are shorter in length than the ones I reloaded. ( see pic) My reloads seem to strike the primer better than the other reloads...also my S&W 2206 .22 cal. had about 6 or so F T Fire as well... the firing pin struck the rim but nothing ..im not sure about this as well..(see pic) any info appreciated!


http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/guns and ammo/guncase010.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/guns and ammo/guncase011.jpg

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/guns and ammo/guncase012.jpg

sorry the flash blurred the pic, but the last pic is the empty cases of the good reloads that fired...
 
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Don't really have much information to go on. However if your reloads are longer than the ones that dont work, I would guess that length is not the issue.
Reloaded ammo with too long OAL will cause FT Feed or crapy feeding.

I would look at primer seating depth of the rounds that dont work. Are they seated too high resulting in the force of the firing pin/striker is absorbed by pushing the primer fully into the case.

Perhaps you have a weak striker system or crap/dirt in the channel? What primers are you reloading with? Are they stronger or weaker than the reloads that dont work?

That should give you some places to start. As for the .22 it could also be a number of things. First I would start with upgrading to higher quality ammo, and see if the problem goes away. If your using bulk box cheapest 22 you could find its not uncommon to run into batches that really suck. I buy the cheapest 22 I can find to feed my Ruger 10/22 with the Butler Creek mags. Its not uncommon for having a few FTF in each mag.

Good luck.
 
For the .22, it's probably bad ammo - not uncommon.

Who loaded the reloads that you purchased? If it was Joe Blow, dump them as they are an unknown and not licensed to remanufacture.

What are the OAL of both?
 
Heres som more info on the subject...

the .40 cal ammo is

1.105" on the stuff that FTFire

my reloads that were fine are...

1.126"

the rimfire ammo is Remington thunderbolt

the pistol is a brand new M&P .40 cal new out of the box



hope this helps some
 
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who made the reloads that you are having the problems with(licenced loader or joe blow?)? If you dont have problems with YOUR reloads why would you use someones else?
 
ok...just to step back a bit...this was my first batch of reloads ever...didnt know if they would go bang or fizzle out the end of the barrel ...also if they did work fine i wanted another batch of ammo to compare them to. Hindsight, i should have bought a box of FACTORY ammo for comparison but i cheaped out and bought a bag of reloads from the store. Thats the story...
 
I had problems with CCI primers not going off even though they were properly seated and well hit, so it may be something that you can't check.
 
I'd bet the OPHL's(shooting Other Peoples Hand Loads is not a good idea) are too short in the case length. That bullet doesn't look exactly right either. Pull 'em, measure the case length(.850" max. .840" trim-to) and use your own load. It works. When a pistol works fine with one 'brand' of ammo and not another, it's the ammo.
FTF's are not unusual with any .22 ammo. It's got to do with the way rim fire cases are primed. The slurry doesn't always fill the whole rim. Sometimes if you rechamber 'em they'll go bang. Sometimes they're just bad.
As with any .22, you'll have to try a box of as many brands as you can to find the ammo your pistol will both shoot well and cycle the action. The cost of said ammo means nothing.
 
40 S&W Headspaces on the case mouth so COAL will have little to do with mf but would be more into feeding issue's, pistol cases shorten with firing so could be to short if brass has been fired many times. Primers on the 40 in your photo don't look like they are hit all that hard, could be not fully seated causing the firing pin to seat the primer and then not have enough energy to set it off, take some of the rounds(untried in gun) and rub the primer end(case head flat + perpendicular) on a abbrasive surface (wood) if you leave a mark on the primer (shiny spot or scratch) they are not fully seated. CCI primers will give a problem in some revolvers, by the color in yours they look like WW. If they are not fully seated I would be very carefull trying to seat a primer on a live round might be safer to dissassamble them.

Good luck
Andy
 
Colin said:
I had problems with CCI primers not going off even though they were properly seated and well hit, so it may be something that you can't check.
Click to expand...

CCI primers i find to be very hard primer. As for your re-load get rid of them and mark it down as a bad deal :runaway:thats what you get buying in a bagie but id let the store you bought them from know they sold you a bag of S%$# and to start selling re-loads from lic re-loader not joe blow. The 22 rem thunderbolts are a POS i had so many wiss fire from them
 
EXATLY!!! the primers on the FTF did not look like a hard hit as compared to my loads!! I think were getting somewhere, here are some more measurments...

length my loads on empty fired brass...0.841"

length of other loads on empty brass...0.836"

not much difference there...

heres some more pics,

mine is the longer one in the middle of the two

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/reloads001.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/reloads004.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/nearnorthguy/reloads003.jpg
 
Investigation leads us in the direction that due to the light primer strikes on the ammo, would lead us to believe the problem exists with possible primer seating problems....thanks!
 
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