Slightly bulging

Shooterjimi

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Hi all loaded some 12g shells last night for the first time. A couple have a slight spot where they buldge. Common sense tells me to strip down and discard the hull. What error causes this or is it just bad hulls? The rest turned out pretty good.
 

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Are you using a lee loader ?

I found this happened when I was starting out and I didn't have my die set right.

I am no expert but I wouldn't shoot them.
 
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The cases you’re using aren’t the best for reloading! Hulls need to be all the same type, proper wad for that hull and shot charge. Wad pressure will determine the crimp. Not enough wadpressure and you’ll get the two in your pic. Too much wad pressure and the crimp will end up angled downward exposing the shot. Ideally it should be ever so slightly downward. As far as shooting those two I would put them back in the loader on the crimping station and see if it improves. What loader are you using?
 
If they fit the chamber, just shoot them.
I used hull like that when I reloaded shot shells.
Tossed them after that...they where Win AA's or Peterson Blues.
IIRC, the laod was a Bill Johnson's Specialty out near Sunburry Cedar.
1-3/8's no 4 lead , 37 grn of Win 571 and as mentioned Win AA's of the Peterson Blues oh and the wads I do not recall.
Killed geese dead ;) and ducks too.
Never skipped a beat in the 870 Sportsman or when I upgraded to a Wingmaster .
Tight Groups,
Rob
 
I used hull like that when I reloaded shot shells.
Tossed them after that...they where Win AA's or Peterson Blues.
IIRC, the laod was a Bill Johnson's Specialty out near Sunburry Cedar.
1-3/8's no 4 lead , 37 grn of Win 571 and as mentioned Win AA's of the Peterson Blues oh and the wads I do not recall.
Killed geese dead ;) and ducks too.
Never skipped a beat in the 870 Sportsman or when I upgraded to a Wingmaster .
Tight Groups,
Rob
Winchester red wads WAA12R’s. We called them “baby mags” or “Jr. McCoy’s” we called my skookum 1-3/4oz, 3” reloads of plated lead 2’s “Crusher McCoy’s”…….
 
Thanks, I watched a video on setting up the crimping die will give that a try, and will check what the hulls were. I bought a complete set up off #######, Mec Steel master is the press. He also threw in a Lee Loader. Also several types of hulls, powders, wads and manuals.

The recipe came from one of the manuals.

1 1/4 oz 7.5 lead, 2 3/4 hull, mg42 wad, 32-34 grains blue dot powder I used powder bushing # 35 on my mec loader. Recourses have it under small game. Will be targeting birds; grouse, woodcock and maybe pheasant or rabbit.
 
I’ve found Remington STS and Gun club hulls to load/ crimp so much better then Winchester hulls
I use a MEC grabber press
You also have to try/experiment with different load data. I find that some load data posted in manuals just doesn’t work well as the components listed don’t stack well to give the proper crimp
 
"If it seats... It yeets!"
Excepting damage to the bases of the shot shells, if it chambers (and is an otherwise safe load), it can be fired.
 
Thanks, I watched a video on setting up the crimping die will give that a try, and will check what the hulls were. I bought a complete set up off #######, Mec Steel master is the press. He also threw in a Lee Loader. Also several types of hulls, powders, wads and manuals.

The recipe came from one of the manuals.

1 1/4 oz 7.5 lead, 2 3/4 hull, mg42 wad, 32-34 grains blue dot powder I used powder bushing # 35 on my mec loader. Recourses have it under small game. Will be targeting birds; grouse, woodcock and maybe pheasant or rabbit.
With that load you won't have much left to cook after you shoot them. :LOL: :LOL: As stated skip the promo shells not ideal for reloading.
 
OP -You have to be mindful of the wad and hull combinations, for a number of reasons.
1) In 12 gage, some hulls are tapered on the inside (Winchester and Remington) and the rest are straight-walled. There are dedicated wads for each, and using the wrong wad will cause problems. I believe the MG 42 wad is designed for straight-walled hulls.
2) The steel rated MG 42 wad is prone to binding with the rammer tube, typical fix is to use a 16 g rammer tube.
3) The stack height of given recipe will affect the "crimpability". Sometimes its a manageable fix via the crimping die, sometimes not so easy. Most of your crimps appear to be dished, indicating a sub-optimal crimp/stack.
4) Reloaders tend to use better quality hulls (Winchester AA, Remington) as they are less prone to hull/base separation, and use better plastic. You are using the cheapest Winchester hulls, which seasoned reloaders will avoid.

Going forward, have a look at Lawry website. They list the various wad combinations for various hulls.
 
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Shooterjimi: The dished crimps indicate payload stack height is too low (too short), to support crimping pressure. This often causes hulls to buckle.

No need to take the loads apart.....as long as the finished shells will chamber, and shot isn't leaking out. They are okay to shoot.
It bears mentioning that, many loads will fill the hull properly, without adjustment . Aside from crimp.
But, there are exceptions. Yours appears to be one of them.

Here's a tip: Ideally, you want the shot payload to sit at or even very slightly above the start of the crimp fold* in the hull, for a good, firm crimp.

*Excessive space between this and the shot payload, will cause the crimp to collapse inward. As there is nothing underneath the crimp to support it. This needs adjusting first, before going on to adjusting finish crimp.
Note: I usually like the payload to sit right about on the start of the crimp fold. Then adjust the crimp, accordingly.

There are a couple of ways to raise stack height.

First: Place a stiff felt or cork wad in the bottom of the shot cup. Then, drop in the shot payload. This often solves the problem. Then, adjust crimp.
These wads often come in either 1/8" or 1/4" thickness. In many cases, the 1/8" wad is usually enough. I prefer the 1/8" cork wads myself. Can be used singly, or stacked.

Note: These can be purchased. Or, you can make them yourself, using a wad punch.

Or: If only a little adjustment is needed, place a thin overshot card on top of the payload, as the final step before setting up, or finishing the crimp. These too, can be purchased. Or, make them yourself.

As others have already mentioned, there are better choices for hulls. Still, the AA hulls you have on hand...though tending to be a bit stiff to form crimps easily, can work. Once you have stack height and crimp adjusted. Have loaded plenty of these in the past, that worked just fine.

If you haven't already seen them, Mec offers a good set of online tutorials, including how to set up crimp height and pressure. Including pre-crimp. An important part of the overall setup. Be sure to get the pre-crimp right first though, before tackling the finish crimp.

A bit of final advice: I understand you may want to use the components on hand. But, the load you're building seems a bit heavy and unbalanced(at least in my opinion, only) for the game you plan on hunting. The load will do the job but, you will have equally good...or possibly better, success using much lighter loads....say,1 to 1 1/8 oz.

You mentioned that you have access to a manual. Here's another good, online resource for shotshell load data: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center. Plenty of useful data shown.

Hope this helps.

Al
 
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